Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: Kiner]
#849015
11/08/10 05:53 PM
11/08/10 05:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,380 Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,380
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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I have Oliver rods in mine.
CHIP '70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60 '69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60 '71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75 '73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75 '90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt '06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: AndyF]
#849017
11/08/10 07:22 PM
11/08/10 07:22 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 527 alaska,usa
9secondsatellite
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 527
alaska,usa
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Quote:
If you use a Chevy rod you'll save a bunch of money and will be able to find a higher quality product. You didn't say what rod bearing or pin size that you would be using so it is hard to provide you with any answers. But in general, there are a lot more options in the Chevy sizes than in the Mopar sizes.
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Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: ADakotaRTGuy]
#849019
11/08/10 08:54 PM
11/08/10 08:54 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,210 New York
polyspheric
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,210
New York
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Despite the helpful attempts by the vendors to sell you the most expensive rod "pick one capable of delivering power for your final upgrade"), rod choice has very little to do with max HP. Except for bolt size (and quality) rod failure are almost always in tension, and the most predictable breakage is ATDC on closing throttle. If your engine has 750 HP with the throttle shut, I'd like to buy it. The cause is inertia, which is directly proportionate to reciprocating weight (piston, pin, rod small end) and to the square of RPM. More HP does nothing, unless it occurs at higher RPM - in which case it's the RPM that breaks it.
A rod that will take 600 HP @ 8,000 RPM will take 800 HP @ 7,000 just fine.
Stop reading catalogs and magazines, and ask your engine builder.
Boffin Emeritus
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Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: polyspheric]
#849020
11/08/10 09:31 PM
11/08/10 09:31 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091 Delray beach, Florida
Performance Only
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091
Delray beach, Florida
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Quote:
Despite the helpful attempts by the vendors to sell you the most expensive rod "pick one capable of delivering power for your final upgrade"), rod choice has very little to do with max HP. Except for bolt size (and quality) rod failure are almost always in tension, and the most predictable breakage is ATDC on closing throttle. If your engine has 750 HP with the throttle shut, I'd like to buy it. The cause is inertia, which is directly proportionate to reciprocating weight (piston, pin, rod small end) and to the square of RPM. More HP does nothing, unless it occurs at higher RPM - in which case it's the RPM that breaks it.
A rod that will take 600 HP @ 8,000 RPM will take 800 HP @ 7,000 just fine.
Stop reading catalogs and magazines, and ask your engine builder.
i agree with the above and i'll just add a few comments to go with it. i ve never seen a connecting rod failure from compressive forces unless there was a problem elsewhere in the engine combo. IMO too many people put too much emphasis on light weight without the knowledge of how to do it properly. i've seen the pin ends of rods pulled apart simply because the wrist pin was too weak and severely flexed/ bent. rod big ends fail for a number of reasons. obviously bearing clearance or lack of oil is the big reason, but that's not the connecting rods fault. not all rods are made the same, regardless of country of origin. the placement of the bolts can be critical to holding the two halves together. the footprint of the mating surfaces is also critical since that becomes a leverage point when the piston is ATDC. seldom will you ever see a beam fail simply because it was over stressed. i won't say it can't happen, but it's rare. another obvious problem is people that don't use a bolt stretch gauge and rely on a torque wrench alone. torque is more a measure of friction than anything else. proper preloading of the fastener is much more important that a torque reading. okay, enough rambling, carry on.
machine shop owner and engine builder
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Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: tubtar]
#849022
11/08/10 10:06 PM
11/08/10 10:06 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,200 UK
602heavy
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,200
UK
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Used the Scat 7.1" H beam rod in a 4300lb 605" charger circa 850hp spun to 8K with a shed load of sniff. ..............never could get it to hook up. EDIT: some interesting reading in this thread.
Last edited by 602heavy; 11/08/10 10:17 PM.
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Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: ADakotaRTGuy]
#849024
11/09/10 04:22 AM
11/09/10 04:22 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 740 WA
JD Dart
super stock
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super stock
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 740
WA
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Good luck on your quest for the 9's but 750 RWHP won't get your 4000+ lbs beast there. For rods Oliver or Carrillo Is this going to be S/C or T/B for boost. If you do get that much HP good luck getting it to the ground. That's why I move from my truck years back and build the car. But your R/T trucks are cool and how many R/T are in the 9's zero unless it's a tube chassis weighting 2200 lbs. I’m not trying to be cynical just save your coin and put it into something lighter, faster is always more fun. If my car weight 4250 with 825 RWHP it would do 10.06 now with it weighing 2850 it will and does 8.80 Which is more fun? When people see a fast car or truck they like it but if you run 10.00 and spin half way down the track are they impressed NO maybe you because you took something very heavy and made it fast but 10’s compared to 8’s with the same motor
best so far 8.53 @ 158.59 MPH 60'1.240
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Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: JD Dart]
#849029
11/09/10 03:07 PM
11/09/10 03:07 PM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 193 MD
ADakotaRTGuy
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 193
MD
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Quote:
Good luck on your quest for the 9's but 750 RWHP won't get your 4000+ lbs beast there. For rods Oliver or Carrillo Is this going to be S/C or T/B for boost. If you do get that much HP good luck getting it to the ground. That's why I move from my truck years back and build the car. But your R/T trucks are cool and how many R/T are in the 9's zero unless it's a tube chassis weighting 2200 lbs. I’m not trying to be cynical just save your coin and put it into something lighter, faster is always more fun. If my car weight 4250 with 825 RWHP it would do 10.06 now with it weighing 2850 it will and does 8.80 Which is more fun? When people see a fast car or truck they like it but if you run 10.00 and spin half way down the track are they impressed NO maybe you because you took something very heavy and made it fast but 10’s compared to 8’s with the same motor
Its going to be turbocharged. Single in bay unit. It actually should weigh about 3700 race weight with me in it. Weighed, 4150 with me in it before a 4 link, A/C removal and no race wheels. Wheels alone will drop about 120 lbs. I was running a supercharger before so that weight should offset. I understand your take, but I don't go racing every weekend, for competition. Just like driving a dodge, I am trying to be different. Not many people say anything when you drive a car into the 9's. Drive a truck into the 10's and many many people will take notice. Check out the video in the sig, I am sure that mustang never thought he would lose that race. Thing still ran 12's.
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Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: ADakotaRTGuy]
#849030
11/09/10 05:10 PM
11/09/10 05:10 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 142 Maryland
Sick 660r
member
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member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 142
Maryland
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How would H beam compstars hold up in this situation? I would probably be a hair under 3000 lb.
2000 dakota
418 magnum
paxton novi 2k
T56
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Re: Rods for about 750 RWHP in a heavy vehicle.
[Re: Sick 660r]
#849031
11/10/10 02:57 AM
11/10/10 02:57 AM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 193 MD
ADakotaRTGuy
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 193
MD
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