Thanks guys!- that's some great info to try- just like you said dean- there is NO gear clash- just like hitting a wall. Once I get it figured out I'll post it up.

I had a 73 b-body 4-speed that wouldn't shift into 2nd @ high rpm either but I did figure out that the reverse lever was moving and would lock 1-2 out during gear change because of the interlock side cover so I put a spring on it that would hold it back which worked fine, it musta had the ball & detent problem but never did investigate it before I sold it.

Mitch

Well I should have asked the obvious questions before...how will I know if the detent ball has fallen out? (I suppose the reverse lights would not work... ) pull the side cover off and fish for it? or is there a better way?
I'm assuming that it gets reinstalled through the side cover opening as well?

No, the ball is located at the bottom of the the large hex under just the reverse light switch. You can fish for it but I like to take off the reverse rod and feel the detent snap in. Course if you don't have a feel for it you might miss it as the spring is still there.

Ok- thanks Tom. I'll give it a whirl this weekend.
Rick

Just undo the rev. rod and shift it into reverse by hand. If the ball fell out, there's no detent and it will be QUITE obvious.

I'd be surprised if that actually has happened. If there's no detent for reverse there'd be other clues, like when you try to shift into reverse.

Exactly what would those other clues be Dean?

I can't tell you how many people this has happened to, none of them thought it was it either. Don't get me wrong alot of times it is the syncro and it probably is in this case too, but you sure wouldn't pull the trans if you didn't have to. Keep in mind when the ball pops out the spring remains.

The ONLY clue the ball has popped out is it won't shift into second at speed.

I assure you... you can't tell from the drivers seat.

Surprised noone mentioned dialing in the bell. If an engine has been rebuilt, or the car is being built to shift fast for any reason, you ned to indicate the bellhousing and make sure it lines up properly with the crank centerline. It's standard practice and the symptoms are most of what everyone is describing. I've not heard of sticky synchros or ever seen them but there's more i haven't seen than I've seen...lol. But I have seen misalignment by as much as .030" that does cause the input to put pressure on the mainshaft and geartrain that makes fast shfting impossible or difficult.

Quote:

---

Surprised noone mentioned dialing in the bell.

---

Quote:

---

I was making some passes and missed a powershift into 2'nd on one of my last runs- I'm assuming I damaged something. It use to shift perfect under high rpm...

---

I was going to mention it but re-read that it shifted good at on time. Even though the engine was rebuilt I assumed that the same block and bell housing were used. If not, then indeed indexing could be a potential problem. But in most cases all shifts would be affected, not just a first to second. When you miss a shift, most likely the dog teeth get boggered up. Once they loose that sharp edge, it gets harder and harder to hit the gears.

One more thing to look at would be ALL the linkage with special attention to the shift shaft lever. I had one crack from one of the corners and it would open up when I was "going for it"

It is a different block this time and truth be told I got lazy this time and did not dial it in as I did with the last motor. HOWEVER, with that being said it hits all the other gears just fine but with 2'nd it's like there is not even a gate there- nothin'. That to me sounds like Toms theory fits the best.

Well I took Tom's advise and pulled the reverse switch hex adapter out tonight and it looks like Tom hit it on the nose- the detent ball was MIA. Sooo...thanks Tom!- the next time we meet in Vegas drinks are on me