Use the box with as few holes as possible and ship it.

the second is better, but doesn't have to mount with a gasket, just overlap.
sort of like the reverse of tupper ware.
you know how the lid has a bit of flap overlapping the container, just flipped over and the container has a lip over the base.

sticky mounts seem bad in an engine compartment.
can you put holes in the board and mount it with stand offs like the mother board in a computer case?

not great but something like this might be better.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062217

design not size or material.

or this is not too bad, but I would seal the sides.
http://electronicsusa.com/miniboxes4.html

if the insides of your first one look like this
http://www.okwenclosures.com/products/okw/robust/RB_G.jpg
then it isn't a big deal since the screws are outside the box area.

if not something like that or this
http://www.okwenclosures.com/products/okw/smart-box.htm

Here's the datasheet for one of the boxes I liked. If you look at the rendering on the top right, you can see the flange around the edge of lid. The screws themselves should also seal pretty well. link
Here's a truly sealed box, but with no easy way I can think of to mount it to the car? link

If someone would just make the perfect box, this would be a lot easier

I'm not worried about the sticky standoffs vibrating off, if that's what you're wondering.

2nd one is better.
to mount it, just drill holes in the bottom for a plate that is Z or L shaped so it stands off of whatever you mount it to. or spacers and straight through bolts/screws.

as for vibrating off, no. My issue is heat in the engine compartment will easily exceed 150 F and probably closer to 200F in the summer.
Either mouting vertically or horizontialy you may have problems if it is not solidly mounted to the box.

It looks like your design has a place for 4 holes. Just have them actually be holes. Computer board stand offs are fairly common and mount them in the box that way.

I know they will stick out past the bottom, but you need to mount the box off the mounting surface anyway to get the wires to clear.

oh and you may want to number at least 1 of the pins for wiring, so people have a reference when they look at the board. if not numbering them all, so your instructions can explain which one goes where.

Yes, there are 4 holes in each corner of the board. I guess I'm just being lazy, and don't want to drill and tap the holes for the standoffs

Although nylon standoffs really would work pretty well. And not that much more work for all 10 boxes I'll probably sell.

I can leave room around the board so you can drill two holes through the bottom of the box to mount it to the car.

I'll print out a label and have it on the inside of the box showing which wires go where, and how to set the dip switch.

you still need a reference on the board so people are sure.
trust me on this, my job is to figure out how people can screw stuff up even with instructions.

Look what Fedex was nice enough to bring today

The components will be another few days, then assemble and test.

Quote:

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you still need a reference on the board so people are sure.
trust me on this, my job is to figure out how people can screw stuff up even with instructions.

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I can sometimes get 'too close' to whatever I'm working on, and forget to look at it like anyone else would. Stuff that's obvious to me... isn't to anyone else

I understand. lots of really smart people that know their jobs well get tunnel vision expecting people to know exactly what they are talking about because they have been looking at it for days.

Always have to remind them and MYSELF, that a month from now, a year from now, if someone has to look at it again, if you don't put enough information down, even my own notes won't make sense.

And while you are atempting to do this on the inexpensive(cheap is the wrong word) for your fellow mopart members, it makes it even more important care is taken not to short cut the little things.

Are you going to swing by and drop it in the car for me?

And the two boxes. The bigger, completely sealed one, does have two spots to mount it under the lid, and outside of the seal

But the smaller one is, well, a lot smaller. I'll probably include both when I send one to you for testing to get your thoughts

gotta ask, what is the extra connector for?

screw downs hold down the wiring to it right?
so what is (looks like a floppy drive connector) on the board for?

The white six pin header on the top edge is so I can program the microcontroller. The ones that ship out may or may not have it installed.

Yes, the flathead screw heads you see on the blue thing clamp/hold the wires. Just a standard screw terminal.

one more ? what is used as the temp sensor?i just have a plain ole hotrod no AC or EFI just a motor and a rad.

there are 3 ways to go.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2385/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2310/

these two will work in the place of your normal temp sensor where ever that is screwed into(bb vs sb)or in some port that coolant passes.

or you can go simple if you don't have an extra port, or don't want to drill one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3653/

which is self contained and just gives an on off setting instead but is in its own right adjustible for the temp it comes on and off.

Sounds good!

I've got a spare fan motor with a wire connector. I was thinking that you could cut the connector off the motor and make a jumper harness with that and the chassis side connector you have for your truck. Find a Mercedes and plug in the harness. You'd be able to read the signals on the jumper harness.

Andrewh's wife has a Mercedes. What she doesn't know won't hurt him.