I found a 383 from an automatic car to put in my 1970 Road Runner 4 speed car. Is there anyway to tell if the crank is drilled out for the 4 speed other than pulling the transmission off? If the crank is not drilled out, do I have any options? I want to use this motor and drive my car while I rebuild my current 383 at my leisure. Thanks in advance.

No external differences, you will have to actually look at the back of the crank.

This is from memory so hopefully others will chime in- If I recall later model v-8 were all drilled only for torque converters, the manuals used a roller bearing that sat in the torque converter nose recess and adapted it down to work with manual input shafts. But it may require machining.

In trying to look that up I stumbled across this post on another site that may also be helpful

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103034

IIRC a 383 should be drilled. FWIW I had a mid 70's 440 I was going to install a 4-sp behind. It was not drilled at all so I bought a pilot bearing for a mid 90's dodge v8 gas powered manual trans truck and they fit the old big block v8's as well. Then I just would have had to trim the tip of the input shaft down a bit and I would've been good to go.

As the other poster stated no readily visible difference. You can either drill the crank a touch or cut the end off the input shaft. It won't hurt anything either way and there are a bunch of sticks out there with slightly shorter inputs. As evidenced by alot of Chevy guys cutting 833 inputs to fit their applications.
Good luck

So are you saying there is no 383 or 440 out there that I should avoid? I don't want to have to tear the new motor apart to drill the crank. I want this one to go right in so that I can rebuild the other. Any pictures of these would be greatly appreciated.

the roller bearing/drive pinion support, fits the converter register.
no need to drill any crank.

Dealer or Brewers.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/clutch/1.html