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Auto to 4 speed on a GTX #825305
10/08/10 09:58 PM
10/08/10 09:58 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Illinois
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Craig61 Offline OP
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Craig61  Offline OP
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Illinois
Looking at buying a 1968 GTX which ,was changed to an automatic from a 4speed car Has pedal and linkage and shifter. Question is besides the obvious bell housing flywheel and tranny. Will it need a different drive shaft? Also will the face plate on the console for the auto . Can it be exchanged for the top face plate for a 4speed? Which can be purchased at Year one

Re: Auto to 4 speed on a GTX [Re: Craig61] #825306
10/09/10 10:45 AM
10/09/10 10:45 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 797
arizona, usa
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lokalik Offline
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lokalik  Offline
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arizona, usa
don't know about the face plate. 4spd drive shaft not the same lenght as auto. do you have a Z-bar with the bushings and springs and ball studs,(frame and bellhsg) throw out bearing fork and dust boot, tranny support. are you going to put in backup light and netural safety switch? and then misc nuts bolts. i put in a keisler 5spd and love it. have you look at that option? being the car was a auto remember that the pilotshaft hole in the auto crank is not as deep as the pilotshaft hole in a four spd crank, you will need the cut off about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of the inputshaft of the tranny.

Re: Auto to 4 speed on a GTX [Re: Craig61] #825307
10/09/10 03:52 PM
10/09/10 03:52 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,245
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX Offline
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Posts: 12,245
Looking for a way out of Middl...
If it's a GTX then you will have a 727 which is the same installed length as a B body 4 Speed. As long as you don't get an A body 4 speed the drive shaft will fit fine with no changes. Even the yoke is the same.

As for the console the top will interchange BUT the bottom MAY need to be trimmed. A 4 speed had an extra hump on the transmission tunnel that requires the console to be trimmed on the E-bodies but it is a different console and the hump is smaller so I do not know about the console for the 68 B's. Somebody will.

Did they install the hump? If not you will need one to clear the shifter and linkage.

and like he said the Z-bar, frame bracket and such but those are available new from Brewers or Passon.

If the rear of the crank isn't drilled deep enough for a 4 speed then you can trim a little off and run a late model bushing/bearing that sits in the Torque converter register. If it is deep enough but not wide enough just run the later bushing and your set.







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