LOng story but maybe easy question ??

Is the fluid flow thru this trans also controlled by the body computer ?

The reason I ask is my wifes neon has just woofed it's 3rd trans in less than 7k miles.

Everytime there has been a fluid loss code that everyone has blamed on the converter.

Trans has been rebuilt 2 times by chrysler mechanic using OEM chrysler parts with the exception of the converter on the first rebuild.

Quick rundown of everything..

Original problem - Car bucks and dies, squealing noise, code shown for fluid loss - rebuild trans, flush lines and radiator, use aftermarket converter. Drive 10 miles trans comes apart on way home. Everything inside burned and rear gearset trashed.

Same code - fluid loss - Everyone think's aftermarket converter is bad - rebuild and flush everything again this time use OEM chrysler converter.

Tech drives it for 3 days with Chrysler scan tool hooked up - shifts fine , all pressure's fine.

Get about 2 blocks from his shop and observed trans temp spiking fast - pulled the lines and found return line NOT returning fluid intermittently - suspect aftermarket radiator sump restricted or plugged with clutch material from first trans coming apart.

Pull trans - check for damage - all OK - re-installed using a aftermarket cooler totally bypassed stock radiator.

Tonight wife was on her way home from work - same problem but was able to limp it home.

I am now clueless and out a bunch of cash..

Fluid flow is NOT controlled by any computer IIRC the flow to the cooler should be the one closest to the left side of the car and fluid should flow all the time

Thanks C-Tech - I am considering a reman trans and converter from Mopar this time since it has a warranty.

I just wanted to rule out anything computer related so I don't smoke this one also..

The dealer doesnt warranty their rebuild?

I would think you get 12 months 12,000 miles

I don't know the first thing about Neons but my tranny shop said to replace (not flush) the cooler lines on my Ram truck after a failure. Something about a one way valve I think, but it's been too many years and I don't remember it clearly anymore.

Robert

have you replaced the pump??

yes a new mopar pump was installed after each rebuild.

First caused by broken converter and/or restricted fluid flow.

Second was the restricted return wiped out everything plus the rear planetary and sent debris thru entire trans

drove it today and can't duplicate problem again basically a real faint whine when driving and when shifting.

Wife said it was the same sound it made just before it blew the first time.

This am checked all connectors, solenoid pack for leakage, ground connection. Fluid is clean , not burnt.

Going out now to pull the pan and filter.

I'm still looking for a scan tool to buy for trans codes.

The scan tool is almost a dealer only thing. I think that even Snap On's best will not pull the codes. I could be wrong.

ATF+4 is darker than Dexron and smells a bit burnt right from the bottle, at least to me.

I always pulse flush and then pulse backflush the lines and coolers. The fluid that I flush gets strained and if I see any crud, flush, backflush or replace. By pulsing the fluid it helps bust anything loose.

Sorry to be so blunt, but it's going to fail again.

Replace it with a manual trans if at all possible and save yourself the hassle, money, and aggrivation.

You can pick up the manual trans parts cheap over at www.neons.org, and a good five speed will run you $50-$125, ready to install. You'll need a manual trans PCM, too, but those are not hard to come by either.

Having been through a four-month battle with a GM 4L60E and never winning, I swapped in a T-5 manual and no problems since. I know not everybody can and/or wants to do such a swap, by it my experience, once an auto trans is rebuilt and fails again, it's time to cut your losses.

If you're intent on keeping the auto trans, find a good used one on www.car-part.com or over at www.neons.org and swap it in. There are always people parting out cars, ans parts for these cars sell cheap...since they were cheap cars to begin with.

manual trans may not sound so far fetched after all..

was able to borrow a scanner - no codes.

Pulled pan and filter and strained trans fluid and definetely found more metal than I expected to see.

There was some on the magnet but quite a bit more still in suspension.

Had only been driven 2 miles since the noise was heard so maybe this time it was caught early.

I thought maybe there might have been metal left inside from the last rebuild (rear planetary basically exploded) but I don't think it would have lasted this long if that were true.

Looks like I'm going to get REAL knowledgeable about neons this week... close to a timing belt water pump change so I may just pull the motor and trans and do it all at the same time.