Can any of the members help with this problem?, i've change the ignition on my car to electronic distributor, i'm using a mopar performance kit,
i'm using the original wiring harness from the car
(70 challenger), i have the blue wire from the ecu to the run side of the ballast, i have the black wire to the neg. side of coil, if i check voltage between + and - of coil (without coil installed) i have 12 volts regardless of distributor rotation, if i do connect a coil i have constant spark from the secondary lead to ground with key in run position, i do not have the alternator connected at this time i am just trying to check all my electrical stuff, also, i have continuity between coil + and ground or coil + and positive on starter relay with key in run position, am i doing something stupid here or what

john

I'm a little confused by what you are trying to do here, but I'll try to throw something out there.

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....i've change the ignition on my car to electronic distributor, i'm using a mopar performance kit,
i'm using the original wiring harness from the car
(70 challenger),

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The car would have been points, so I'm assuming you have added the 5 wire electronic harness to your oem harness? it has the 5 wire connector on the ecu end, a blue, black, green, and 2 together for the dist.

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.... i have the blue wire from the ecu to the run side of the ballast, i have the black wire to the neg. side of coil, if i check voltage between + and - of coil (without coil installed) i have 12 volts regardless of distributor rotation,

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There will be voltage between these two leads when checked with out the coil in place. There is no load(current) there without the coil. testing between the wires without the coil isn't telling you much.

distributor rotation is not really important here either . The electrical system doesn't understand what that is. It just sees the pulse signal from the magnetic pu in the dist.

I'm going to question your selection of power sources.
The run side of the ballast will be voltage reduced, and not my first choice.

All the blue wire needs to be wired to, is a 12 volt "key on" source. Preferably something that doesn't have a bunch of stuff on it already, so it get's a full 12 v under operating load.

The black wire goes to the coil -
the green wire is left alone, and the two wires that go to the double connector plug into the distributor.

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....if i do connect a coil i have constant spark from the secondary lead to ground with key in run position,

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so it just sits there arcing with the key on?

Or do you have to rotate the dist to get spark?

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.... i do not have the alternator connected at this time i am just trying to check all my electrical stuff,

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That's fine, it will have no bearing on the situation.

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....also, i have continuity between coil + and ground or coil + and positive on starter relay with key in run position, am i doing something stupid here or what

john

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You must be checking something wrong, or have a wire crossed. There can't be continuity between a power source, and a ground. That's a dead short.

Just step back and check some basics.

The crucial things are..
Getting a good power source for the blue wire...
Haveing a good ground. Make sure you clean off the paint where you have it mounted. The ECU MUST have a direct gound to it's case. It does NOT have one in the harness.

good info

The car would have been points, so I'm assuming you have added the 5 wire electronic harness to your oem harness? it has the 5 wire connector on the ecu end, a blue, black, green, and 2 together for the dist.

i am using the harness supplied with the kit i only meant the wiring to ballast and the rest of the car is original,yes the secondary will sit there and arc constantly regardless of dist. rotation , thats why i'm stumped. thought that the dist.should colapse the field as it rotates over the cam?
still continuity between coil + and intake or engine block for that matter and coil + and starter relay +

john