My '67 Fury has a '76 318 engine with the electronic ignition with four prong resistor. I have been having a problem off and on where the engine will turn over but will not start and sometimes will die out while driving along.It will usually start up again an be ok for a while. I have narrowed it to an electrical situation and I feel it is in the wiring. I replaced the ignition switch with a used spare that I have and also the resistor, module and pickup coil. The trouble is that most of the time it runs very well. I am waiting for it to do this again and I want to hotwire it by running a jumper wire from the + battery connection to the 12 volt side of the ballast. Is that the correct way to do this? If it starts right up, than that will mean that the system itself if functioning properly wouldn't it?
I also checked the bulkhead connections and the seem ok. Sorry for the lengthy post. Any help here will be great.
John

Yes you can test it that way.If the problem is gone while hot wired work your way back until you find the problem,a wiring diagrahm would be useful but I'm sure your 67 is pretty simple.If the problem still exist work the other way through ballist,module,coil,distributor and associated wiring.Good luck!

hi
had same problem on a car once ,

turned out to be a pickup coil in dist .

would shut down and after cranking would restart and run fine agin .

sometimes just took longer than normal to start cold .

My daughter had a 76 camaro v6 that did exact same thing. Turned out to be the pick-up coil in distributor.

Or the coil itself. I had the same crap happen with my Demon when I was running a Accel super coil (the big blocky yellow one). Swapped it for a MSD Blaster 2 and never had another problem.

Has it been doing this since the conversion or recently? I would check the ECU ground and might (re)check the bulkhead. I use a small metal bristle brush on the male ones and a new brass male terminal (NAPA has em) to clean the female ones. Yes jump directly from starter relay to the blue loop on that end of the 4 terminal ballast & see if it fires and when it wont start if you have a helper to crank it w the key while you check voltages at the ballast/coil/ecu and a 5 pin ecu needs voltage at 2 pins in start (ign2)

Hey thanks so much for the responses. It has been happening off and on for some time (several years at least). I do have a good ground on the module. Here is a weird thing. Sometimes, mostly when it has been sitting all night, it will crank over great but will not fire up. If I disconnect the 12 volt wire on the ballast and then reconnect it, then it will usually start immediately. I have changed the connector on this wire and ran new wires to the module in the past but this still occurs now and then. I will recheck the bulkhead. I am almost ready to go back to drinking again LOL. Thanks again.
John

I just had a problem like you are describing, and it turns out that I had too much resistance only netting me 3 volts at the coil. I am running a Flamethrower coil that I found out is internally resisted @ 1.5 ohms so I don't need to run a ballast resistor. I made a jump wire and put it in place where the ballast was, and presto, car runs great. If you don't have an internally resisted coil, clean all of your leads and connections, or try a different ballast.