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Alternator wiring question
#782118
08/24/10 12:15 AM
08/24/10 12:15 AM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 372
PA
moparboy66
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 372
PA
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I am using the Mopar electronic ignition kit and the electronic volt regulator on my '66 Coronet with the new 360. Nothing exotic. Engine starts and runs fine.  I have a rebuilt '66 alternator that I bought at the Nats two years ago.  I am using the existing wiring from the original 318 Poly. I connected the original black wire with the ring terminal to BAT terminal (I have 12.4 VDC on the terminal). I connected the original dk green wire to FLD terminal. The battery is not charging- still about 12.4 VDC across the terminals, engine running or not. Have I missed something in the wiring, or how can I tell if the alternator is working by itself?
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Re: Alternator wiring question
[Re: moparboy66]
#782119
08/24/10 12:39 AM
08/24/10 12:39 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Quote:
Have I missed something in the wiring,
Yes you need a late alt w 2 field terminals instead of your single one or convert yours so you have 2 male field terminals and run that to the other terminal on the flat VR you added. The diagrams are in the archives. EDIT if you dont want to mess w your alt/wiring you could get an electronic version of the OE black "box" VR & run it instead of the flat later type voltage regulator you added and in fact you could still use your oe reg but they have so many probs that an electronic version is highly recommended whether flat or box type
Last edited by RapidRobert; 08/24/10 12:49 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Alternator wiring question
[Re: moparboy66]
#782122
08/24/10 01:53 PM
08/24/10 01:53 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
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you can drill couple of holes ( one for the brush the other one for the screw ) on the blank space and fit a brush with isolator there and will convert it on dual field alt
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Alternator wiring question
[Re: moparboy66]
#782123
08/24/10 03:47 PM
08/24/10 03:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
ahy
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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Quote:
Thanks alot Robert. I understand.
I do have a new OE black box VR (not electronic but mechanical) that I bought probably two years ago. I could replace the flat solid state late model one I currently have installed, but then now I'm thinking that I'll still be stuck with the lower amp output of the period alternator, correct?
So, it seems to make sense to me to get a late model 2 FLD terminal alternator and make the wiring mod per the tech archive.
I see that an '85 Diplomat or equivalent alternator is suggested. Would it just drop in place of the current one I have, using the existing small block brakets, and is there anything else I should consider or upgrade due the higher current output, i.e. the ammeter bypass?
The later "squareback" alternator should bolt right in with your current brackets. Output will likley be 78 amps... too much for the OE charge wire, bulkhead connector and ammeter. The bulkhead connector is the weakest link.
You have lots of choices. Easiest is to use the alternator you have with a replacement single field voltage regualtor. Another choice is to get a 50 amp dual field round back alternator since it looks like you are wired up for dual field. If you get an alternator for a '70 Challenger you should get the 50 A dual field. Parts store rebuilt alternator quality has been low so I'd order a Powermaster rebuilt from Mancini, Boucillon or Summit.
If you need more amps and want to upgrade to the 78 A squareback, I'd suggest you use one of the strategies to at least bypass the bulkhead connector with the charging current. There are a number of ways to do this with lots of posts already.
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