I have a challenger with a World products Wedge engine.. I have Milodon oil pump with milodon oil pan with two pickups, both in the rear of the pan.. The pan has a hole in it to make room for the centerlink.. There are two - 10 hoses going to the front and rear of the oil pump.. When I pass the "stripe" and hit the brakes, the oil pump looses prime and will NOT REPRIME unless I pull the distributor and drive it will an air drill. needless to say, I have a problem with the oiling system HENCE requiring the removal of the pan and oil pump.. MY QUESTION IS,,, Where does the accusump GET it's Three quarts reserve oil from.. I am assuming that it is "charged " from one of the two oil ports in the top rear of the engine, and discharges into the "tee" that I will install into ONE of the pickup hoses????? Therefore, there needs to be a CHECK VALVE on the " fill side" to keep the oil from returning into the oil galley in the rear of the engine, when there is NO OIL pressure?????? I'm CONFUSED BIGTIME......

normally there is a valve either hand operated or electric placed in the line from the accusump to the engine. once the engine is first started you fill the accusump with pressurized oil from the engine. there is also usually a fitting on the back of the cylinder so you can put additional air pressure on the cylinder. while the engine is running (valve open) the engines oil pressure holds back the oil in the accusump. if the pressure drops the accusump pressure overcomes the loss of engine pressure and forces oil into the engine. normally before you shut down the engine you close the valve trapping pressurized oil in the cylinder. then you can open the valve before firing the engine and prelube the engine. the accusump does not discharge into the pump suction lines, it discharges back out into the same line used to fill it. the accusump is nothing more then a hydraulic accumulator.

on another note i would work on correcting the loss of suction to begin with as opposed to relying on the accusump. does the pan have a swinging pickup?

Thanks for the info jamesc. !!! I kinda thought that was the way to go,, but when I saw the -10 KIT and TEE in summit's catalog, it kinda screwed me up.. I think it's 1/4 pipe threads coming out of the back of the block. The electric valve hooked up to the accusump would also be a good idea... Thanks for the explanation...

The pan has two stationary pickups.. One in the rear and one a few inches from the rear one.. Milodon built a couple of baffles or ledges in the pan to try and take care of the problem.. I also think there is an issue with the height of the suction hoses.. I guess the suction hoses, at some point between the pan and the pump,, have to be HIGHER than the oil pump to create some kind of effect.. I saw it on some other thread... An engineer friend of mine told me to use furnace brazed 90 degree fittings and get away from the fittings that are on there stock.. there is some turns that the oil does NOT like to make... I will try and run the motor again when I get it back from the builder and see if the oiling issue is gone,, but I STILL think an accusump is a GOOD IDEA!!!

personally i don't use the hard 90° fittings that thread into the pickup, i use straight fittings and use a 90° full flow hose end as your friend mentioned. imho if the pump is sucking enough air that it not only loses pressure but won't pick it back up again i'd be VERY leery of running that setup before the problem was corrected. it doesn't take long to dry the bearings off and cause damage. if a swinging pickup will fit in the pan that would be the first thing i would do. i'm assuming the pan has hinged doors to trap the oil on decell?

this is a pic of the system on my car. i've never had problems with it losing pressure on decell or after sitting for extended periods.

I guess the suction hoses, at some point between the pan and the pump,, have to be HIGHER than the oil pump to create some kind of effect

That may be the problem - you have a bubble at a high point in the line that won't purge, it just expands rather than get drawn into the pump. The line should always go continuously up from the screen to the suction port.

Your pan design is also a problem - you have no forward "slosh" control. It's not difficult - you just don't have it.

This is going to sound odd, but if the pan is well sealed (valve covers, dipstick), you can prime the pump by pressurizing the case volume with air from outside while cranking.

Chris, while I agree the source of the problem should be fixed and not depend on the Accusump as a band aid, I do think these devices have more value than just at start up.

We have run a similar device for years and don't use it as a pre-oiler, we use it to more safely lower the level of oil in the pan and as insurance. For example one time we broke a rod and the oil pump got wacked. It was obvious it had happened so nothing was masked. The engine was shut off quickly, the device maintained oil pressure for a bit and the crank was saved.

My $0.02.

Bill

I have my accusump plumbed into the oil line that comes from the remote filter to the oil pump straight into the block, #10 an line I believe. I wouldn't use the back of the block 1/4" hole.

I had a similar problem in the dragster, but not near a severe as yours. Upon hitting the brake the oil pressure would dive towards zero, then recover about as fast as it lost it it gained it right back...
Problem is even those few seconds will cause major engine damage.
Think of the accusump/accumulator as reservoir of oil with air pressure applied to one end. Pretty much a floating piston with oil on one side and air pressure on the other.
Lets say the air pressure is 20 psi.
Lets assume the accumulator is full and the valve is closed, so there is 3 quarts of oil pressurized inside, it cant get out cause the valve is closed.
You start the engine normal oil pressure comes up in the engine say 35 psi at idle..Now you open the valve on the accumulator...nothing happens the oil still stays inside the accumulator cause the 35 psi is holding the oil inside.
The valve stays open, during the run the engine oil pressure drops below the pressure of the internal pressure acting inside the accumulator, the accumulator starts to empty until there is a equalibruim of pressure, if the pressure is the same the oil stops flowing from the accumulator.
Now the engine oil pressure recovers, you have 40-50 psi now the accumulator fills back up. You simply shut the valve off before you kill the engine trapping the oil for a prime before the next start, or what ever.

Dont buy those expensive valves offered by moroso, and Accusump..I have a source for electric valves that are very cheap, work well...
I posted some info and a link for the ebay valves...
Some other good info..
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post6133769

I see the usual degree of interest on this.
Thanks as always.

I am looking to purchase an electric valve kit. I think the part # is 23908.