Does anybody have any experiences using these in a full weight a- body on the street? I'm contemplating switching out my 40 year old bars for these but wondering if they will maintain a "normal" ride height? they are for the car in my sig which now sits 1.5" lower than pictured due to dearching my S/S springs so my ride height is slightly lower than stock.

My Friend put them in a 73 duster with an all iron small block, steel hood etc and they would not hold his car up.

I heard you can dissassymble the ball joint from the spindle and let the LCA hang down more to get one more flat on the torsion bar and that will work. Not sure if that is a good idea or not. That is definately beyond the factory engineering/intent of those parts.

Well, that's kind of what I was expecting to hear. Your right- if they have to be cranked to the very max to hold the car up they are not going to cut it for very long. My gut feeling is the .890 bars are what I really need.
Thanks for the insight

Rick

If you do a Google search for "torsion bar tango" you should find an old article that I wrote for PHR. Basic summary is that the smaller bars see a lot of stress. The 0.810 bar will be close to breaking if it is under a full weight car. Street driving really puts a lot of exra stress on the bars, especially anything like speed bumps that cause the car to hit the bump stops.

The car see's mostly street duty- so as much as I'd like to see the car launch better.. it's certainly not worth the risk of breakage for.
Thanks for the article heads up (I learned a few new things from it)

My car would not stay where I set it w/the .810`s and was actually slower in the 60ft and 1/4 mile compared to the 6-cyl junkyard bars I now run.