I need to adjust my doors at the top front edge to be closer to the fender. The hinges have been replaced and the fenders aligned. I need to adjust the doors better before I put the hood on. I don't understand the terminology in the 73 Body Service manual. The door is in the opening good the body lines are equal but the top front of the door needs to be moved forward just a little to close the gap. But which door hinge do I loosen to get it to adjust that way. Do I loosen the one on the door or on the cowl plate? Then do I push forward on the back of the door or lift the door with a jack. Is there any good articles or instructions online about door adjustment on Mopars?

Cowl side. When I adjusted mine I loosened the bolts just enough to be able to move them. I used a block of wood with a good pad on the end and placed that on the hinge and tapped real easy with a heavy hammer. There is probably a better way but that worked for me. I didn't want to loosen them so much that it moved on it's own. Maybe someone else has a better way and we can both learn something new!

to move the door forward you must loosen the bolts on the hinges to the cowl panel.
open the door enough to get a jack under the edge.
lift the jack until it just picks up the door.
loosen the bolts on the upper hinge hinge only until you can get the door to slide forward a tiny bit. you only have to move the door less than 1/8". you might have to lift the jack until you see the door move forward.
tighten the bolts.
now the rear of the door will be higher than the body line. and the gap will be closer on the top than the bottom.
now slightly loosen the bottom hinge bolts.
the door will drop down. let it drop until the body line is slightly lower than the one on the 1/4 panel.
tighten the hinge bolts and it will lift the rear of the door a bit.
check your body line and front gap.
if you aren't happy with the gap or body line alignment adjust ONE hinge at a time until you like the gaps.
remember if you move the door hinge a tiny bit it will move the rear of the door almost 10 times as much so work slowly.

I don't know how many times I've tried to get these doors right. But I did one at a time and all at a time and no matter what I did nothing changed. As you can see the top front edge of the door needs to be moved forward. The lines seem to be pretty equal at the bottom. I don't know which hinge to loosen first or which hinges do I loosen at the same time.

You may be going at it incorrectly. I've read when you assemble a car that you install the doors first and adjust them to the 1/4 panel and rocker panel. Then you install the hood and adjust to the cowl. Then you install the fenders and adjust them to the doors and hood. Maybe one of the body/restoration guys will confirm or correct me.

I finally got around to readjusting the door. I've found that only the passenger side door needs to be adjusted. The driver's door is matched to the rocker panel and top quarter panel body line. It just looks like the driver's fender is way too far forward. Because the driver's door closes nicely and straight and no gaps at the window seals. It's at least good enough to get it on the road. However, I followed the instructions on this post to adjust the passenger side door exactly. It was going good as I worked at the top hinge first and then when I slightly loosened the bottom hinge second it all went back to the same position it was in before. It's like no matter what hinge you work with and loosen. Once you tighten everything back up the door will not change it's position. The window glass is going above the rubber seal. When I manually position the glass there is a small gap at the cowl so that tells me the door still isn't adjusted right. I'm just trying to adjust it to the quarter panel body lines now because I know my fenders are way off. But like I said no matter what I loosen and raise the door always goes back to the same position. The rear is like 1/8" below the top of the body line on the quarter panel. It doesn't seem like I can get the door to move forward the close the gap at the cowl. Any other suggestions. There is no play in the hinges, they were rebuilt.

Are you sure the striker isn't the problem. It will pull the door in one direction or the other.

I was thinking the striker might be the problem. But I never could understand how the striker works. It seems to me all it does is hold the door closed. It had two thin washers behind it so I kept them there. How do you even adjust the striker? All you do is screw it in. I'm thinking maybe it's the fenders that need to me moved back. Which I tried because I got the door pretty much lined up with the body lines on the quarter panel and closing good. I unbolted everything on the fender and pulled it back as much as I could. There is hardly no movement you can get out of the fender by doing that obviously. Unless my core support is bent causing the front of the fender to hang up when I pull it back. I did it get closer than before not like a real body man would but what I can live with. The driver's side door seems ok to me, the lines are all lined up and the door closes effortlessly. However, the gap between the front of the door and the fender is almost double what it was on the other side. And I now know how hard it is to get the fender to move back towards the door. So I don't know how it's going to turn out. That's the side I found a bullet hole or something in the core support. But I believe he ran over a fence because when I was doing the chassis I found some wire wrapped around the K-frame.

The striker should move up around after you loosen it.

and the latch should move in and out, giving you a full range of adjustments on it. it's possible your car is 'tweaked' a bit. you might have to loosen the fender completely, and reposition it to the door, then work the cowl, hood and bumper to match it.