have 68 Coronet ,put Mopar Electric ignition conversion in.
Was told to change to Mopar Blue Voltage Regulator (constant output)
for system to work right.
Now I have been told that these can smoke your system or battery.So what do I use for regular that runs the electric ing system??
someon said Year One has a modern electric type regular but in older style look for such conversions.
WhAT DO OTHERS RUN???
dO THE BLUE CONSTANT OUTPUT REGULATORS CAUSE ISSUES????

Cant ans your Q directly, some have used them w no issues but the output does not fall off as temp increases which it should in a non race app. Someone in one of the parts for sale sections here has (or had) an OE appearing one w the black cover w electronic guts for #25 to your door and your parts house has a wells iirc VR706 which is electronic but slightly different from OE appearance. I would go w one of these rather than a constant (voltage) output model.

Why not convert to electronic voltage regulator?

there are elect regulators blue ( race ??? )boxes too.

I just did this conversion for a friend. I got the standard voltage regulator for a 1970 and newer MOPAR. You will also need the wire harness to go with the regulator. I got them both from NAPA for a total of $20.00. Use the wiring diagram that has been posted. It will work just fine.

Just go to any good parts store and get the reg that looks almost like OE and hooks up just like the points reg.Had them in 3 cars and one still has it.Been in for 11 years and no problems no wires to splice etc.It just bolts in.Most parts store dont even have the old points style now.Ive heard of people running the blue MP ones.But it could overcharge.Rocky

There are, (or used to be) two of the blue regulators, one of them works for daily drivers. I'll get the number and post it here in a few minutes.

I run two batteries and a really nice sound system, so I went with the blue box 5 years ago. No problem.

P3690732 blue regulator works great with point distributors and electronic ignition on my daily drivers

I run the MP blue box with no issues as well.

ok, for those using the blue boxes ( single or dual field ) do you actually use your car a s driver, or at least reguraly ?

how's your ammeter reading ? ( if you have it hook )

well... I'm interested on ammeter more than volts, due amperes is what can overcharge the batt, getting leaks and vapors around

I run the constantout put blue box. Have used them for years. Never had a problem. Local speed shop has been useing them on all conversions for years no problems. Amp gauge jumps less then it did with stock reg in the car. I used the MP chrome box ign. Car runs super all day long.

The blue regulators that I have are used on daily drivers with ordinary ammeters and either single or dual field, I've never noticed over charging.

A couple of points of confusion... is the alternator single or dual field? I believe the original in a '68 was single field but it may have different now.

If single field, the inexpensive parts store replacement will be electronic inside and should work fine with electronic ignition as posted by Rocks. The original points style single field may not work well with electronic ignition.

If dual field, again the standard parts store replacement should work fine with electronic ignition. Its electronic inside like the original... just updated. This is what MOPAR used with electronic ignition. If you prefer the black one from Mancini, it should work fine also.

The "constant voltage race" dual field regulator will also work with electronic ignition. The drawback is a long run on a hot day may overcharge the battery... and initial charge after a cold start may be slower. Still many folks have been happy with this setup with no problems.

If it was mine, I'd just go to the autoparts store and purchase the electronic replacement regulator to match the alternator type. Cheap and effective.

If you paid me to take one I would still throw it in the trash.

I ran the blue one on the street for a couple of years without any problems, until recenctly.
The last couple of years I have not driven the car in the rain or at night but lately I have been working on getting the wipers and the headlights working correclty. I was idling the car in my driveway (in D with emerg brake applied for carb tuning) with my lights on and heard my idle rpms drop and the engine started shaking. The first thing that I looked at was the coil voltage inside of the car on my gage and it dropped down below 12v. As soon as I turned the lights off the coil voltage came back up and the idle came back up and it was idling fine.
What I found out was since I was running the constant output regulator and I was applying more load at the in D idle rpms, the constant output regulator was not compensating for the extra load. I bought a NAPA brand voltage regulator and I have not had this problem since and my average system voltage has gone up to handle the extra voltage loads.
My experience with the blue regulator shows me that it was fine on the street for a couple of years and not using any extra voltage loads. But know since I need to use some of the accessories I now need to use the standard compensating regulator.

I've used P3690732 blue regulator on my service truck for at least 15 years without any trouble, the truck battery is a 4D, the truck, the welder and the winch motor share this battery.

I have a question for those of you using the single fld. regulator. Which side of the regulator is which, or does it not matter. My blue mp unit has a post on one side and a spade terminal on the other. Which one hooks to the fld and which one hooks to the ignition circuit?

Thank you,

Jeremiah.