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Re: Street / Strip Guys, What Oil and Why?
[Re: The Cuda Guy]
#749346
07/18/10 12:01 AM
07/18/10 12:01 AM
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,285
Pacific NW USA
CompSyn
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,285
Pacific NW USA
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New engine: 1st) 50-miles with Brad Penn SAE-30 Break-In Oil - For partial synthetic with lots of zinc/phos additives. 2nd) 1500-miles with Brad Penn 0W-30 - For partial synthetic with lots of zinc/phos additives. OW-30 for optimum start up protection in a 30 grade oil. 3rd) After approx. 1550-mile break-in, continued use with Amsoil 10W-30 Dominator Race Oil - For PAO/Ester synthetic blend, street level detergents and lots of zinc/phos additives. Motor oil viscosity is selected by using the rule of thumb: 10psi per 1000rpm of engine operation. At 6000rpms, you want around 60psi. If you have 80psi, your oil is too thick. Possible effects of using motor oil that is too thick: Lower mpgs. Higher than normal oil pressure. Less oil flow. More heat. More drag (horsepower robbing) Possible increase in wear during colder climates. Could possibly shear more?
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Re: Street / Strip Guys, What Oil and Why?
[Re: CompSyn]
#749347
07/18/10 11:14 AM
07/18/10 11:14 AM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,556
Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,556
Rittman Ohio
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I broke mine in with Brad Penn 30 wt. and switched over to Valvoline VR1 20-50 for the summer.I will switch to 10-40 in September. Gus 
64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
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Re: Street / Strip Guys, What Oil and Why?
[Re: Thumperdart]
#749349
07/20/10 11:15 AM
07/20/10 11:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
Taking time off to work on my car
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Taking time off to work on my car
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
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Quote:
Quote:
... but will suggest strongly that whatever you run on the street should be at least a 15w40 w/ a solid flat-tappet... and 15w50 or 20w50 might be better for the warm months when it thins out after miles of street use.
Interesting statement........What are you basing the thicker oils on...more zinc?
No, I'm thinking along the lines of the different grades' viscosities at different operating temperatures and HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) ratings.
There is a strong correlation between HTHS ratings and reduction of bearing & cam wear from what I've been able find out. The best HTHS ratings (5+) are found in heavier (i.e. 20w50) grades and I haven't seen any of the 10w30 (or similar) show a HTHS rating even in the 4s IIRC.
FWIW, a lot of the HTHS "stuff" came from Charles Navarro and his extensive testing of oils in air-cooled Porche 4-cyl. engines trying to identify oils that showed good resistance to cam & lifter wear when the zinc levels were reduced in common passenger car oils.
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Re: Street / Strip Guys, What Oil and Why?
[Re: bigsbigelow]
#749351
07/20/10 12:13 PM
07/20/10 12:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,894
Florida
Locomotion
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,894
Florida
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Speaking of Rotella straight 30 weight, I just broke in a race engine with 4 qts of the conventional Rotella 30w and 2 qts of old castrol 40wt race oil mixed in. Made 4 passes on it at a test & tune and the car ran "ok". Switched to my usual Amsoil 5w-20 Dominator synthetic racing oil and went racing this past weekend with no other changes. After I started it up, I had to lower the idle rpm by about 2-300! Then compensating for the weather conditions, the car ran AT LEAST .10 faster! Oil pressure was only down slightly (surprisingly) between the straight weight and 5w-20, even after it's hot. Not sure what my engine builder sets the clearances to. Amsoil had a bulletin issued a year two ago outling the flat tappet cam/lifter issues and included a list of their high zinc & phosphorous racing, diesel and standard use synthetic oils. I'm at work right now and don't have the link to it at the moment. My Amsoil dealer is working on a new website where you should be able to find more info, or call toll free. Amsoil source & info.
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Re: Street / Strip Guys, What Oil and Why?
[Re: Locomotion]
#749352
07/20/10 12:53 PM
07/20/10 12:53 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,564
St. Clair Shores, Michigan
bigsbigelow
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,564
St. Clair Shores, Michigan
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Quote:
Speaking of Rotella straight 30 weight, I just broke in a race engine with 4 qts of the conventional Rotella 30w and 2 qts of old castrol 40wt race oil mixed in. Made 4 passes on it at a test & tune and the car ran "ok".
Switched to my usual Amsoil 5w-20 Dominator synthetic racing oil and went racing this past weekend with no other changes. After I started it up, I had to lower the idle rpm by about 2-300! Then compensating for the weather conditions, the car ran AT LEAST .10 faster! Oil pressure was only down slightly (surprisingly) between the straight weight and 5w-20, even after it's hot. Not sure what my engine builder sets the clearances to.
Amsoil had a bulletin issued a year two ago outling the flat tappet cam/lifter issues and included a list of their high zinc & phosphorous racing, diesel and standard use synthetic oils. I'm at work right now and don't have the link to it at the moment.
My Amsoil dealer is working on a new website where you should be able to find more info, or call toll free.
Amsoil source & info.
 I work with an Amsoil dealer.
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Re: Street / Strip Guys, What Oil and Why?
[Re: Big Squeeze]
#749353
07/20/10 01:42 PM
07/20/10 01:42 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,409
Ont. Canada
10.90 Racer
super street
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super street
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,409
Ont. Canada
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Quote:
I run el cheapo Parts Master oil with Comp Cams break in additive...... 
X2
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Re: Street / Strip Guys, What Oil and Why?
[Re: BradH]
#749357
07/23/10 08:27 PM
07/23/10 08:27 PM
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,285
Pacific NW USA
CompSyn
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,285
Pacific NW USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
... but will suggest strongly that whatever you run on the street should be at least a 15w40 w/ a solid flat-tappet... and 15w50 or 20w50 might be better for the warm months when it thins out after miles of street use.
Interesting statement........What are you basing the thicker oils on...more zinc?
No, I'm thinking along the lines of the different grades' viscosities at different operating temperatures and HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) ratings.
There is a strong correlation between HTHS ratings and reduction of bearing & cam wear from what I've been able find out. The best HTHS ratings (5+) are found in heavier (i.e. 20w50) grades and I haven't seen any of the 10w30 (or similar) show a HTHS rating even in the 4s IIRC.
FWIW, a lot of the HTHS "stuff" came from Charles Navarro and his extensive testing of oils in air-cooled Porche 4-cyl. engines trying to identify oils that showed good resistance to cam & lifter wear when the zinc levels were reduced in common passenger car oils.
The topic of HTHS is a controversial one. The bottom line is if Porsche requires a minimum 3.5 cSt @ 150C HTHS viscosity for their air cooled engines, then one would be prudent to stick with their recommendation.
But can we draw the same conclusions with an American made water cooled V8 engine?
Quote:
“For example an NHRA Pro Stock engine makes over 1,400 HP and uses a 0W-5 weight engine oil. A NASCAR Nextel Cup Engine only makes 850 hp but uses a 5W-20 weight oil. How can a more powerful drag motor use a lighter weight oil? The NHRA Pro Stock motor runs at a cool 100 degrees F. A NASCAR Nextel Cup engine runs around 220 degrees F.” – Joe Gibbs Racing
Remember HTHS viscosity is measured at 150 degrees Celsius which equates to 302 degrees Fahrenheit.
How often do we see motor oil temperatures of 302(F)?
Hint: they don't see oil temps of 302(F) in NASCAR Nextel Cup or NHRA Pro Stock.
Thicker motor oils do handle extreme heat better than thinner ones, but the question we have to consider is how much heat are we dealing with?
Again, I believe that if you have a motor oil pressure gauge AND motor oil temperature gauge, you can select the correct motor oil viscosity as per your engine build and driving habits by using the 10psi per 1000rpm rule of thumb.
After all, real world ET slips show times that are as much as a 0.10th quicker with 30 and even 20 grade motor oils. As long as you’re maintaining good oil pressure though out the rpm range, why miss out on that free 10th?
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Fixed it.........got home at 4:00 in the morning,just got up and have only had a 1/2 cup of mud. 
