what is a nice cost effective small intercooler a/w or a/a that could possibly fit in the front of a duster. also is the msd boost controller a good system? i was alos thinking of going with snow performance meth/water but don't know what rout to go. it is a street car???

I've had two of the CXR intercoolers with much success. Both were bar and plate designs. Many sizes available.

http://stores.ebay.com/Just-Intercoolers...634Q2ec0Q2em322

http://stores.ebay.com/CXMotorSports_Int...634Q2ec0Q2em322

they look affordable. did you use a/a or a/w. can a air to water be used everyday street driving with no water but add in the ice water when you go racing? or is it not worth it to even put a/w?

A/A or A/W if you need a custom my friend shearer welding can make it.on a daily use boost car an A/A would work good and use the meth inj for extra cooling and octane.have you looked at sizes of coolers and for what hp range?my friends air to air gets 85* temps on a 18lb of boost 1,028 RWHP car[427 cu in.]

yes very mild street car. stock 360 magnum with a cam and csu blow through carb. so are you saying it would be to run a/a on street with 5 pounds and then meth/water injection when going 10 lbs plus at the track? sorry very new to this

The msd launch boost contoller is excellent for a "track only" car. It uses time to determine boost. It's great for tuning a traction limited car at the track. It needs to be "armed" at every use, so it's not exactly something for driving around with.

what tuneable controller is good for driving around also?

I used the A2A intercooler.

Use A/A and you'll be fine. If you want to step up the boost for the track you can use the meth.
Meth is great as a power adder at the track but don't rely on it to keep your engine from blowing up on a daily basis.

feets is their a rule of thumb when you need to use the meth. like a certain psi and above? motor is a stock 360 and i want to keep it together if possible. it has a 750 csu

There are very few hard rules with turbos.

Think of meth like nitrous. It's a power adder. The difference is when you're on the edge of detonation you can shoot a little meth and be safe. It will pick up the power too. However, it's dangerous to rely on that alone to keep your engine together. Doubly so on a street car when you'll be on and off the boost. It won't take long to go through a tank of meth. If you don't have it when you need it things can get ugly.

well how do you cause detonation with a turbo
so like i said keep boost low on the street?

That's pretty easy. More air (boost) without enough fuel = detonation.
Hot air without excessive fuel = detonation.
Too much timing with boost = detonation.

There are other causes but those are the most common.

What it boils down to is keep the engine fat and happy with a 12:1 to 12.5:1 air fuel ratio and you can get away with quite a bit. If the timing gets too far advanced or the air gets too hot it'll detonate anyway.

Detonation with forced induction means engine go boom.

thats simplifies it for me. thankyou. still trying to decide to go turbo or not. bt i think it will make alot more power on my 360 then a 150 shot plate will

It will be much safer to run the turbo than the nitrous. Cylinder pressure will be lower. As a bonus, you'll never run out of boost.

yep and i'm sure if i ease into it the turbo will make alot more power than the plate will safely i am assuming. thanks for the help feets. i'm really starting to understand this stuff. so as far as tuning what does it consist of for you. afr, jetting, boost, timing etc. what is conservative. i decided i'm going for it. setup will be master power 70mm with .96 a/r i believe. may use the stock manifolds flipped around for now. csu 750 blow thru. a/s intercooler and possibly meth injection. would like to get to run 16 lbs like duner eventually on my stock bottom end magnum but it will be in a duster almost 1000 pounds lighter. should be fun

meant to say a/a intercooler. heads will be stock home ported jobs. gears are 4.10 which may be a little high (but it will leave hard) and 2800 ptc convertor. trans is also a 904 with low gear 2.77. may be too much gear usterWork
tire is 29.5 tall drag radial though

Boost is also much easier on the motor because power does not hammer the crank, rods and piston like a shot of nitrous.

If you plan on running 16lb of boost (or even 10+) you will need to get your gearing down. The added bonus is that you wont turn a lot of rpms while cruising!

I have 3.54 with 29.5" drag radial for mine.