I have a World products 4.500 bore X 4.500 stroke WEDGE engine with MILODON 31460 oil pan and 21176 oil pump kit... It has TWO pickups in the 7" deep pan. Both towards the rear of the pan.. When I make a pass and pass the "stripe", I hit the brakes and the motor loses oil pressure.. I didn't notice it the first time I brought it out for a pass UNTIL I was on the return road... I pulled the distributor and had a REAL HARD TIME getting the oil pump to work with the drill and the piece of HEX STOCK I used to turn the oil pump... The second time out,, the SAME THING happened.. I shut the motor off and brought it home and pulled the pan.. I looked at Main #2 and it looked FINE!!! SO,, I put it back together and made a pass on the 4th of JULY (sunday)... The MOTOR ran FINE until the stripe,,, I hit the brakes ,, the oil pressure dropped to ZERO,, I gave it some gas and the pressure jumped to 40 psi.. I then SHUT THE IGNITION off and coasted off the track... I had to PULL THE DISTRIBUTOR AGAIN to get the oil pump to work because the cranking of the engine is'nt enough to get the pump working... I started it up and it looks like I lost a couple of ROD BEARINGS... It sounds like the convertor bolts are loose when I shut it off and the oil pressure gauge is ALL OVER THE PLACE>> Can SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME what is WRONG with this thing????????

Sounds to me like all of the oil is running to the front of the pan and the pick-up/s are uncovered. Might want to look into a swinging pick-up or a pan with better baffling and or a trap door.

....you need a muchO BESter oil pan ! ...

Experiencing the same thing with my small block. It has a nice pan with good baffeling and trap door as well as extra capacity. I only loose oil pressure for a few seconds and it jumps right back up. Quite a few runs and no problems, but it is scary with a big $ engine. I am considering putting an accumulator on it to solve this problem and also for pre lubing the engine.

This typical of big engines that have large oil demands.We usually restrict the oil to the topend and increase the drainback capabilities to the sump and add an accusump as well.We like to burp the throttle after the stripe which usually makes the oil pressure come up.With the addition of the accusump you have pressure and oil volume to compensate for the shutdown pressure drop.

That pan and pick up suck(literally)on deacceleration. You might try one of Milidon Swinging pickups to cure that condition, best bet is add a 3 quart Accusump as already suggssted I have a Charlies nine quart pan with the kick out and Milidon swinging pickup, I haven't use it in the car yet but I'm afraid the swinging pickup mayhit and get stuck under the oil pan drag link passage, I hope not

We still see this condition with dual line swinging pickup,trap door ,baffeled and scrapers on 8 and 10 quart pans.Most fast cars run drysumps for this reason.

Do what i do,pull the chute and shut the car off,i don,t understand these fancy dancy oil systems...7qt pan with a windage tray and i shift over 8,500 rpm,s with a big block motor and i have yet hurt any bearings or anything that has to do cause of the lack of oil...but then again i,m not hip!!! like most of ya all.

You could try running an extra qt of oil...

I'd be more concerned as to why you have so much trouble picking up oil pressure after it loses it. I saw your description of what you had to do to get oil pressure after the first time on the club site. Methinks something else is going on inside there Gary.

My motor is a 500" low deck stock 400 block with the 440Source fab aluminum pan and single line static external oil line. I run 8 quarts in the pan and never see low oil pressure on deceleration. My setup may be completely different than yours but I agree with trying an extra quart of oil, and if that doesn't work I'd shut the motor off immediately and buy an accusump or accumulator.

nos ....

There are BASIC things you need to do to KEEP the pickup covered with oil. Proper baffling with "doors" are a very good start.

The boat project I am putting together is probably WAY less complex and quick and fast as yours ..... but the alum-pan on that was very impressive. A nice kick-out, bunches of baffles and two sets of doors......WITH a stationary pickup.

The main issues are two much oil to the topend,returning the oil to the sump and windage.the secondary issues are bearing clearences,oil airation and uncovering the pick.This varys from engine combo to engine combo as well as chassis suspension reactions(wheelstands and nose dives).The only system that is not effected to any degree is a dry sump.

FREDster ....I just WISH mine looked that GOOD !

VERY impressive.

I have on numerous Hemis and Wedges.We tap the heads and not the valve covers.And we have done it on Indy and B-1 heads.

I called the engine builder ( Ted) and he told me to bring it back to him... I also talked to Milodon and he told me of an updated pan, and he also told me to send the pan to him and he will take a look at it... As far as the restriction to the oiling system in the Indy -1 heads,,, I DO NOT have restrictors,, but TED THINKS that I would have oil FLYING out of the evac tubes in my valve covers if there was too much oil in the valve covers... The evac tubes are clear and they look a little WHITE stained and do NOT LOOK like there was oil trying to escape!! Milodon says 8 quart oil pan and 1 for the filter,, so I DID HAVE NINE (9) QUARTS in the motor... Maybe sending the oilpan to MILODON is the right answer and restricting the heads oiling NAD ADDING a THREE QUART accusump will SOLVE the problems..... it seems cheaper than a dry sump...