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Just out of curiosity do you remember what resistor was used? Mine is basically the same way, 12volt wire thru a resistor. Seems like the alternator will work at start up but when some electrical things are turned on it wants to kick out. I have been going thru the wiring on the car and the grounds. Not sure if the resistor value would have anything to do with it.

I will check out that website too, Thanks.

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In the tech archive there is a thread that will help you.

Basicly the CS Alt does need a resister or 4 watt bulb to excite the alt to make it charge.

The jest of that thread is you need between a 100 to 220 ohm resister or a 3 to 4 watt bulb between the L post off the alt to a switched 12 volt source, preferably close to a high amp draw point. mike

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I know have a small light in the L wire going to my 12v. The big S wire is run to the alternator stud. When i start car i have around 13.4v. When i increase rpms the voltage drops slowly. Fuel pump is running the whole time. If i turn on the fans or headlights i get a drop like the alternator turned off and it never recovers. I can turn off everything electrical and i basically have battery voltage and thats it. Around 12.6v. Any ideas? I am at my wits ends on this.

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After the lite, where is your S wire connected to.

Also the lite may not be in the correct wattage range to excite the alt.


In the moparts thread it is suggested to use a 220 Ohm resister. a poster used one and his Alt wouldnt charge. He swapped it out to a 100 Ohm resister and it worked great.

My Painless wire kit instructions state to use a 82 Ohm 5 watt resister.

So IMO the alt seems to be sensitive to the Ohms and watts resistance on the L excite wire.

That wire also needs to be wired into the field of the circut not a Battery source.


You might even consider having the Alt tested for free at one of your local Auto parts Store.

But , Beware ! Depending on Whos doing the testing you can get False reads there too.

If all the above fails and you want to test it. Find a Advance Auto store. Thier Testers will read Volt output,

While AutoZone and O'Reileys has a pass or fail light

With the Different configurations of the GM Alts, If the testers dont leaf through to the correct page set up on the tester to grab the right wire harness,
You could get a Pass or fail on even a Good Alt. mike