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Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72938
06/14/08 11:40 AM
06/14/08 11:40 AM
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GTX MATT Offline
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Quote:

Who cares if it is a big-block, it is also the most produced classic Charger EVER. Do you also feel you are better than me because you are not "beating your charger to death." People like you make young guys like me shy away from mopars. Usually older people embrace the young guys and try to teach them, you simply are not one of those good guys in this hobby. People like you make me and many others stay away from moparts, which is a valuable resource. Do you get your jollies off by insulting people and calling them stupid. You were young at one point if some [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] told you that you are wrecking your car what would you do? Like I said it is just a car. I hope that one day you will realize this.
BTW great looking Superbee!




Some of these older guys think that they are the word of God in human form and that they could do no wrong. Take no offense. You are 100 % correct, many of these older guys look for something to blame on you because of your age. I see it all of the time. I get questioned all of the time about stupid crap because people assume that me being a young kid I dont know what im doing. I love the people that tell me that my car doesnt have a 273 in it because the smallest engine they made was a 318. Yeah sure. They forget that some of them were very capable of working on a car when they were a teen ager. I have friends that dont know enough about their own car to tune it correctly. Instead of telling them to sell it because they will never be able to do it I show them how. I think youre too far away from me but Id love to come take a look at your car. It has the electonic ignition, correct?

Sounds like an improperly timed engine, fouled plugs, a crossed wire, or maybe a combo of those three as well as possibly a poorly tuned carb. If you ignore these Mopar Police who are trying to make you go buy a Chevy (so that they could then complain about the Chevy tools with all of their chrome) you will get the correct information.

DO you have a good manual (like a Chiltons) to help you trouble shoot? Most trouble shooting stuff will be the same on alot of cars, but a manual is always nice for suggestions.

Last edited by GTX MATT; 06/14/08 11:42 AM.

Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
Re: More Engine Problems [Re: GTX MATT] #72939
06/14/08 01:51 PM
06/14/08 01:51 PM
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Urbana, MD
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bordin34 Offline OP
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The brake bleeder was stripped by some previous owner. I would hate to buy all calipers and MC because I couldn't get a bleeder out.
The engine has NGK XR5 plugs in it with accel wires with less than 100 miles on them, but I did buy suppression core, I don't know why.
I have a Haynes manual and a book titled "Automotive Mechanics: Seventh Edition" circa 1975.
From looking at the rockers before I didn't notice the push rods not in the cup.
I have no cam specs all the last owner said was it had a "mild cam."
Edit-Also I don't think it was a valvetrain problem. When I thought I had a bad ballast I bypassed it with my old coil and the car ran like a champ. Then the rotor fried. It could be a combo of weak ignition and a bad tune.

Last edited by bordin34; 06/14/08 01:52 PM.
Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72940
06/14/08 02:26 PM
06/14/08 02:26 PM
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GTX MATT Offline
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Bypassing the resistor? That will burn your coil out. The first things Id invest in would be a new balast resistor and a coil.


Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
Re: More Engine Problems [Re: GTX MATT] #72941
06/14/08 03:44 PM
06/14/08 03:44 PM
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bordin34 Offline OP
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I already bypassed the ballast and ruined the coil. I now have a working coil and ballast. I tried fooling with the timing because when I took off the bad coil and replaced it would not let the engine rev above 2000rpm in N.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72942
06/14/08 04:07 PM
06/14/08 04:07 PM
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GTX MATT Offline
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Are the new coil and ballast resistor brand new from a parts store/catalog/internet vendor?


Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
Re: More Engine Problems [Re: GTX MATT] #72943
06/14/08 04:21 PM
06/14/08 04:21 PM
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Urbana, MD
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bordin34 Offline OP
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The coil is the 30 year old stock one, the one that went bad was a blaster 2. The ballast is one that I had in my stash of parts, it looks old. I tried a= brand new MSD .8 ohm ballast and it makes the car run worse.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72944
06/14/08 05:15 PM
06/14/08 05:15 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,333
MARYLAND
69Cuda340S Offline
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With engine off, key in run position, make sure you have 8 volts at + side of coil.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72945
06/14/08 06:02 PM
06/14/08 06:02 PM

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hmmmmm. not to sound crasp, but everytime somebody asks you the same question.. we get a different answer.
perhaps after you try something, write it down, that way you can keep track of what your doing and stop
chasing your own tail. you NEED to get yourself ORGANIZED.

Re: More Engine Problems #72946
06/14/08 08:39 PM
06/14/08 08:39 PM
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Urbana, MD
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bordin34 Offline OP
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On Monday I will solder the leads back onto my voltmeter.
Here is a list of this I have done stuff to.
ECU
-Put a known working one in, still ran the same
-Made another ground with 2 12awg wires to the firewall
Cap and Rotor
-Replaced, still ran the same
-I did not feel and excessive play
Ballast
-Put a known good one in, MSD 0.8ohm ran worse
-Put old Standard one in ran the same
-Bypassed, before screwing with timing, car ran great
MSD Coil
-Tried 4 different ballasts, backfired with all
-Ran worst with MSD ballast
-After checking all the ballasts I bypassed them
OEM 30 year old coil
-Car no longer backfired, made less power than usual
-One day the car randomly would not rev above 2000rpm, so I fooled with the timing
Plug Wires
-Has Accel 8mm suppression core wires with less than 100 miles on them
Plugs
-Has NGK XR5 plugs with less than 100 miles
-Replaced champions
-Gapped at .35
Valvetrain
-Visual inspection and pushing with hand showed nothing.
-Some side to side play
Ignition Timing
-Really screwed up
Carb
-Float levels are correct
-69 primaries
-Stock secondaries
-Holley 670cfm street avenger
Distributor
-30 year old stock unit

Last edited by bordin34; 06/14/08 10:14 PM.
Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72947
06/14/08 10:02 PM
06/14/08 10:02 PM
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MARYLAND
69Cuda340S Offline
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I would think the primary jets should be some where between 67 and 72 and no larger.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 69Cuda340S] #72948
06/14/08 10:11 PM
06/14/08 10:11 PM
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Urbana, MD
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bordin34 Offline OP
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That was a typo I meant 69 size jets. I edited the post to show it correctly.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72949
06/15/08 11:38 AM
06/15/08 11:38 AM
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Tampa, FL
tpabayflyer Offline
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Quote:

On Monday I will solder the leads back onto my voltmeter.
Here is a list of this I have done stuff to.
ECU
-Put a known working one in, still ran the same
-Made another ground with 2 12awg wires to the firewall
Cap and Rotor
-Replaced, still ran the same
-I did not feel and excessive play
Ballast
-Put a known good one in, MSD 0.8ohm ran worse
-Put old Standard one in ran the same



-Bypassed, before screwing with timing, car ran great MSD Coil



-Tried 4 different ballasts, backfired with all
-Ran worst with MSD ballast
-After checking all the ballasts I bypassed them
OEM 30 year old coil
-Car no longer backfired, made less power than usual
-One day the car randomly would not rev above 2000rpm, so I fooled with the timing
Plug Wires
-Has Accel 8mm suppression core wires with less than 100 miles on them
Plugs
-Has NGK XR5 plugs with less than 100 miles
-Replaced champions
-Gapped at .35
Valvetrain
-Visual inspection and pushing with hand showed nothing.
-Some side to side play
Ignition Timing
-Really screwed up
Carb
-Float levels are correct
-69 primaries
-Stock secondaries
-Holley 670cfm street avenger
Distributor
-30 year old stock unit







Looks like an ignition problem to me. If it ran great with full power to the coil than I would say that rules out all other problems right????? Concentrate on why full power is not getting to the coil using the regular wiring and take it from there. TBF

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: tpabayflyer] #72950
06/15/08 09:16 PM
06/15/08 09:16 PM
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bordin34 Offline OP
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Today I hooked up my timing light and with the help of my uncle we got it in the correct area. It was way too far advanced. He thinks that a valve may be hanging up or burnt and there is a misfire as well as running rich. Tomorrow I will beck out the ignition system and look at the color of the spark.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72951
06/15/08 09:47 PM
06/15/08 09:47 PM
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69Cuda340S Offline
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After you check the voltage at the + side of coil the next step would be a compression check.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72952
06/16/08 07:38 AM
06/16/08 07:38 AM
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Quote:

Today I hooked up my timing light and with the help of my uncle we got it in the correct area. It was way too far advanced. He thinks that a valve may be hanging up or burnt and there is a misfire as well as running rich. Tomorrow I will beck out the ignition system and look at the color of the spark.




Now yer talkin'!

Did you ever hook up the vacuum gauge and tell us what it read? If you do, in fact, have a burnt valve, it would show up on the vacuum gauge immediately.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72953
06/16/08 01:48 PM
06/16/08 01:48 PM
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Urbana, MD
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bordin34 Offline OP
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Here is a video of the vacuum reading from when these series of problems first started in April. I no longer have the vacuum gauge as I borrowed it from my teacher and this is the last week of school.
For the voltmeter it looks as if I need a pencil tip for my soldering iron or a new voltmeter.
http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j172/Charger34/?action=view&current=PICT5756.flv
Edit-I just checked my spark and directly from the coil the spark is a nice bright purple and I can move the wire about 1cm to 3/8" from the ground and it still sparks. Now I am going to check the spark from the distributor to plugs.

Last edited by bordin34; 06/16/08 02:33 PM.
Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72954
06/16/08 02:46 PM
06/16/08 02:46 PM
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Posts: 842
Urbana, MD
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bordin34 Offline OP
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I just checked the spark at the plugs and it sparks a nice white/purple that hurts the eyes to look at. I only checked the number 1 however.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72955
06/17/08 02:26 PM
06/17/08 02:26 PM
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Urbana, MD
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bordin34 Offline OP
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I just ran the engine and it is still backfiring, which leads me to believe it is something in the valvetrain. Burnt Valve, Sticking Valve, Cam, I don't know. Until then, thanks.

Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72956
06/17/08 04:22 PM
06/17/08 04:22 PM
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p d'ro Offline
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Did I miss the boat, or did you not say if there were points or elec. ignition? Has the distributor been out of the motor? Id so, it may be installed improperly. Find top dead center and reinstall the distributor. Double check the points and/or the module. When I was your age I installed a distributor 180° out of sync. Wouldn't run, but man, what a backfire!! You may be a few teeth off, is that possible w/ Mopars? I know it is w/ my Vette.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: p d'ro] #72957
06/17/08 09:15 PM
06/17/08 09:15 PM
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aspenrt360 Offline
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i have been watching for a while saw bthe vid for the vac. gauge it seems to me it is a vac. leak or a lobe on the cam or a valve sticking or burnt to know more you may have to start ripping into the engine to see whats up just take your time and be as methodical as you can good luck


2013 Chrysler 300 touring 1974 Dodge Charger SE. 360-727-8.75-3.23 sure grip 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
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