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by the time you buy the hughes rockers and the other stuff you need you'll probably be getting within 100.00 bucks of the complete Sharp rocker kit. there's no comparison between the two, the sharps are far superior in every aspect.

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by the time you buy the hughes rockers and the other stuff you need you'll probably be getting within 100.00 bucks of the complete Sharp rocker kit. there's no comparison between the two, the sharps are far superior in every aspect.

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So true and, you won`t be grinding anything and with some shims for fine tuning clearances you`re on your way.

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To be honest I wouldnt run the Indy rockers... if you
have a line on the HS... get them

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To be honest I wouldnt run the Indy rockers... if you
have a line on the HS... get them

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What problems are everyone are having with Indy rockers?Just asking so i wood be aware of what to look for with these Indy rockers.been running these rockers sense the build with no serous problems(knock on wood)also my cam is a solid roller with 693/706 on the lift.Thaxx.

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I guess your not running alot of spring pressure,
they dont like much pressure... they tend to fail
if you run much pressure... dont ask me how much
as I cant answer that but I would believe it also
the revs that goes along with the pressure

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well i just got back from mocking my rockers back up.this time i took all the shims out and the spacer springs.I am using the factory hold downs and now everything looks right.but the side of the rocker body is sitting right against the factory hold down.am i supposed to run a shim there to keep the hold down from eating into the rocker arm? the bad thing is if i put a shim there i loose my rocker to valve tip alignment and the thinest shim that cam with my hold downs is 0.015. also with trying to use the factory crane spacer springs just trying to put the shafts on with no push rods was a big pain in the Butt.looks like i just need to get some soild rocker spacers to use with these. bob here are the measurements that i got between the rocker arms

cylinder 1 0.680
cylinder 3 0.661
cylinder 5 0.670
cylinder 7 0.656

are these numbers soposed to be like this i mean all over the place? i measured each one 3 times to make sure. here is the best pic i could get of them.thanks mopar65

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You should put a shim on the outside next to the
hold downs so it isnt steel on alum then measure the
remaining distance between the rockers... but the
outside shims should be with the rockers centered
on the stems.... if it needs to move over towards
the hold down then I would suggest getting different
hold downs, preferably alum ones that can be milled
if necessary

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well i just got back from mocking my rockers back up.this time i took all the shims out and the spacer springs.I am using the factory hold downs and now everything looks right.but the side of the rocker body is sitting right against the factory hold down.am i supposed to run a shim there to keep the hold down from eating into the rocker arm? the bad thing is if i put a shim there i loose my rocker to valve tip alignment and the thinest shim that cam with my hold downs is 0.015. also with trying to use the factory

crane spacer springs just trying to put the shafts on with no push rods was a big pain in the Butt.looks like i just need to get some soild rocker spacers to use with these. bob here are the measurements that i got between the rocker arms

cylinder 1 0.680
cylinder 3 0.661
cylinder 5 0.670
cylinder 7 0.656

are these numbers soposed to be like this i mean all over the place? i measured each one 3 times to make sure. here is the best pic i could get of them.thanks mopar65

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You should put a shim on the outside next to the
hold downs so it isnt steel on alum then measure the
remaining distance between the rockers... but the
outside shims should be with the rockers centered
on the stems.... if it needs to move over towards
the hold down then I would suggest getting different
hold downs, preferably alum ones that can be milled
if necessary

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