One more....dark...I will dig out a light unit.

Thanks for explaining that Stew, and I agree 100% I can take 50 pics of the same bubble and they all 50 will look a bit different.

On top of Scotts many skills a good while back he schooled me a bit on some ways to photo them and other parts and how a camera is setup by default and what background to use.

Do I do it, no..have I forgot a word of it? no. One day I will take the time to do so though.

As I mentioned the lighter argent to me shows alot different then the dark in any light, and ive no doubts your bubble pops like crazy in the sunlight.

I ask Scott alot of questions, on here some might sound critical but there not and some carry over from old phone convos.

I do like to ask Scott certain questions as he is considered an "expert" by many and so like many in a skilled field, they get the harder questions tossed at them.

I asked how you sprayed your bubble for a reason and it wasnt to be critical, it was for myslef to try to learn more.

Here is what I have know and done with all high solids and esp the text argent and why. And this might apply to your bubble or here again it may not.

I shoot all the older high solids with a 2.3 tip with the better version of the HF siphon gun with the tip drilled out.

There 15$ gun looks very much like the high end guns back in the day and ive a pic of one for $169 that looks like a direct copy from the mid 70-s.

For me the text argent like the big tip, pull the trigger and it spits it out.

Here is what I have found is the result of using a 1.6 std tip vs a 2.3 and also depending on what part of the gallon I use, no matter how well shook the amount of flake seems never to be consistant if I break it down into pints so I feel some bubbles will get more flake then others.

Now to the tip...in a pinch I needed to spray one of my parts and my good gun was down at the shop so I fiured id run the out of the box 1.6 gun....the pic below is what was left in the pot after shooting the part, I dumped it on a shop rag and you can see what didnt get shot and more or less was pulled from the mix since it was not used.

My part turned out well but I was bothered to see what I didnt use on the 1.6 tip gun vs a 2.3. Both the pics are of what was left after I couldnt shoot no more and just rinsed the pot out with a lil laq. and let it dry.

Ive seen it posted written to reduce the 150% but some of the same ditzler paint seems thicker then others, Acme also made some of the text argent used and its so thick in the can its nuts and can be cut enough to shoot 4 bubbles from one pint.

But here in the pics shows my results on using a 1.6 tip vs a 2.3. or whats left over...

Here is what I end up with left with a 2.3 tip in the same gun...

So I think myself I left alot on the table with the 1.6 tip, but that was my trip with the smaller tip gun.

Your results could of been way different then mine or others.

As hard headed as I am, since this is the resto section, im more then open for corrections/opinions ect.

What I find cool about these bubbles is the fact that wne made they were just a cool option on a car, if the same person painted each one the same way more would be the same.

Maybe not word for word but Scott put it in good perspective for me long ago...in addition to whats been recently said, "correct is what came on your car" I think he said you could take 10 oem org bubbles painted at different times, different people, ect and all might show a hair different, but all are still correct.

No I dont swing on Scotts nuts, he will tell ya that, but he has helped me alot with some correct info and isnt afraid to tell it like it is.

I will probably catch some flack for this post

At the end of the day im just trying to learn what to do and what not to do for my own personal use.

Hmmm thats a tough question, I myself would not be afraid to fog one good equal coat on the dry side so it would flash really quick but my humidity level is 16% today.

I used to bone up alot on the paint nazi-s lit and others and some have said on the last coat, back up bit and fog it and for me it seems to work, as here again on the dry side all the flake and texture ends up on the bubble.

Some add a lil laq to the bottom of the pot and that works to from a foot and a half away...I made the mistake one time of trying to go at it strait on from the top and dropped one drop of laq dead center.....repaint.

If you feel this is in your scope of painting I dont see why not.

I myself have never had any pull and even have sprayed over a non laq base with super light dusting and letting it flash.

I think you might ask Scott as his use of the correct paints is extensive in most areas, as much as id like to say "Sure Stew, get it done" im not going to step out there.

I just got a bubble in to repaint, someone used Frank B,s repop paint but it seems they sprayed it wrong.

Now the crazy part is, for almost 5 years, in addition to the NOS paint ive had a mix that can all be had from your local paint store and id be happy to let one try it out, but the texture is more correct imo, and the flake I add is org ditzler.

Im on the fence about posting the mix munbers so alot of the do it yourselfers can take a stab at it.....the only thing is in bulk the componets? are costly so if you were not going to do volume Franks is cheaper (maybe, im not sure of the cost) but when at times I have trouble trying to remember which is NOS and which is repop. Ive got to loook really close to the texture. Two simple parts, bright silver and course met. in toner form mixed with x amount of clear and flake.

But back to the org paint, after im done I will let it sit a day, use a spray bottle with a drop of dish soap and a new paint brush and clean the bubble and hose it off, and at the same time use my hand, lighty to knock the edge off everything and the water washes any overspray off and poof im done.

I have not found a rag/cloth that will not leave part of the material on the bubble.

And on that note, ive one ugly unit Ive got to go start on.

Stewpar,

As ironic as it is, ive never had paint lift, I shot a bubble that was to be sent out sat, I found one thumb sized area when I was going to place the unit in its crate that I didnt like, so I thoguht....well that sucks, just mix a bit and give it one more nice top coat....FAIL.

Im not bothered ive got to sand off the one top coat, Im not bothered ive got to use a bit more paint, Im so so upset with myself that for some reason I jacked it.

I always spray on the dry side, I switcehd up due to 84 degrees and 16% humidity.

I suspect it might of been the primer sealer I used as thats the only thing ive changed up.

But in reality if it is due to the primer/sealer or? Im glad I caught it vs the owner of the unit.

I think I know what I did wrong, just dont want to admit it.

As far as I can tell this is an original cuda' FE5 red bubble. Whats strange is the lack of red and grey primer/sealer over spray on the inside.

2

3 minimal red oxide primer/sealer

4

5 grey primer

Jason , Looks original to me

Was probably originally "Organsol" ( silver )

My I had Scott Smith ( Harm's Auto ) do mine few years ago .... Looks AWESOME!

Was probably originally "Organsol" ( silver )

Why do you say that? There is no argent anywhere!

Sorry 'looked' like a bit of argent under the red?

Understandable... its smooth grey primer.

Compared to the FE5 red bubble shown with almost as much FE5 paint on the bottom as on the top... this one has almost none and very little primer; red or grey.