I had my indy 360-1 heads fully cleaned up with a full port job, milled and new springs installed at 2.00" install height. My problem now is the underside of the rockers are hitting the valve retainers and T&D tells me i'm stuck, no way to correct this unless i buy different set of their rockers.

T&D were a direct bolt on for my 360-1s
I know your limited on the O.D of the springs you use and you have to have .100" of valve stem above the retainer or you can have issues.

you tried lash caps?

use a piece of fishing line to check and start grinding on the rockers. no big deal. use the string to test fit. you dont need much.

using a 1.550 spring and .020" stem above the retainer. can lash caps fall off?

i had to grind mine a touch

What ratio rocker?

1.6 ratio. what # test line?

Hello,

Grinding is done frequently but I think I'd check with one or more of the builders on here about different retainers that offer greater clearance first. RyanJ has considerable sb experience. Good luck.

Damon

Can you shim the bottom of the rocker arm stand to raise it up?

I had a similar issue with my Sharps, and My brodix heads. I had to do 3 things. I bought the tool steel retainers, I used a -.050 lock, and I had to shim up my rocker stands. I had to go .080 shim under the stand, and Ryan at Shady Dell hooked me up on them. I have pretty good clearance now. No issues yet, but its still on the stand.

Waiting for TTI to send me 1 header tube for my headers, ine got a little F'd up somehow.

Kasey

BB here but I was skeptical about the lash caps.... i like them cause it makes the scrub real good and gave plenty of clearance with the 1.645 spring!

what is the springs part number? what cam are you using? 2" installed height is great, but if you have room you can get retainers and or locks that will/can help solve some of your headache.
I like these cause it doesnt change valve train geometry. Lash caps might help to but it does and will change rocker arm to valve stem scrub.

I see that no one has read any of the 1,000 comments made on this?

the shafts cannot be shimmed. the cam is a bullet with their springs 268/272@50-.712/.688 and spring #vs8100 with 245 on the seat and 595 open. i could set them up at 1.900, but than my pressures would be way to high. the easiest thing would be to clearance them. how much can be taken off without weakening them? i think .030" would do.

Of course, the problem with removing metal here is that you're guessing that the manufacturer left extra un-needed material here.
If he did an excellent job designing it (and there's no metal that isn't structurally required), it's going to break right where you cut it - it's a stress riser, and the lower edge is in tension.

People will give me greif over this, but here goes. I have had several T&D rockers on the shafts do the same thing, but initially didn't notice until taking them off. They found their own clearence. Some of my buddies gave me crap for not catching it, had theirs clearenced by T&D and broke them eventually at the fulcrum. It's up to you, but if it makes you feel better you can take a little off with a dremel, but only a little. Maybe run it a little find how many and how bad the rub and sand them with a dremel tool sanding drum. Don't take any more off than you have to.

been awhile since i'v shopped for rockers for the 360-1 head. anyone know whats available for them now?

I had the same problem with the T&D rockers on my big block with 2.00" install height (the stem in not much above the retainer.) I changed the locks and settled for 1.950" install height. When I pull the heads to mill off the rocker stands, I will cut the spring pockets 0.050" deeper.

i did'nt have to remove much metal from the rockers to clear. when T&D made the rockers they put a clearance notch in it to clear the retainer, but left an edge on it. i just removed the edge and scooped it out in the middle. the edge was all that was hitting the retainer. don't know how much i'v weakened them if at all, but will see.