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Yeah I saw your other post. I believe mine was the same way the last time I changed it. The rear rubber seal stuck up past the edges of the pan, it didn't really fit the cap properly either, so I cut about 1/2" out of it and superglued it back together. The front seal wasn't much better, it didn't sit flat with the pan rail, they were kinda angled upwards at each end. I didn't take the pan off the engine to have a look yet, but I'm thinking the milodon pan must have some differences compared to the stocker.

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How about the 1 piece pan gasket?

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I agree the pan stampings are poor at best. I used a 36 grit 3" 3M dicc to reshape the rubber end seals to the shape of the new pan. I cut the cork gaskets slightly short so there is a slight gap between them and the rubber end seals. Glue the cork gaskets to the block with 3M weather strip adhesive. A thin bead of sealer on the rubber end seals and between the cork and the pan(this fills the inconsistances in the pan). Be carefull and do not over tighten. Don't allow the cork or rubber end seals to "push out" when tightening. This methods will seal the pan. I use the G.M. factory light grey colored sealer,it sticks better than any I've tried. My pan doesn't seep a drop.
good luck Doug

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I called up Milodon today and they said my pan might not have been cut deep enough for the seal and to send it back to summit for an exchange. I asked if it was a common issue and he said no.

I'm going to exchange it but it still doesn't explain why the seal doesn't fit correctly on my block. Mines a magnum 5.9 but it should fit the same as a LA block.

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I called up Milodon today and they said my pan might not have been cut deep enough for the seal and to send it back to summit for an exchange. I asked if it was a common issue and he said no.

I'm going to exchange it but it still doesn't explain why the seal doesn't fit correctly on my block. Mines a magnum 5.9 but it should fit the same as a LA block.

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I think you need to investigate that further. Search Moparts. I know it's been discussed before. AndyF was the last person I saw that brought it up.

Next time I see Milodon, I bring it up.

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I agree the pan stampings are poor at best. I used a 36 grit 3" 3M dicc to reshape the rubber end seals to the shape of the new pan. I cut the cork gaskets slightly short so there is a slight gap between them and the rubber end seals. Glue the cork gaskets to the block with 3M weather strip adhesive. A thin bead of sealer on the rubber end seals and between the cork and the pan(this fills the inconsistances in the pan). Be carefull and do not over tighten. Don't allow the cork or rubber end seals to "push out" when tightening. This methods will seal the pan. I use the G.M. factory light grey colored sealer,it sticks better than any I've tried. My pan doesn't seep a drop.
good luck Doug

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Do you suggest putting a bead of sealer all around the cork and not just at the ends? And the same for the rubber seals? On the whole thing and not just where it meets the cork?

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I called up Milodon today and they said my pan might not have been cut deep enough for the seal and to send it back to summit for an exchange. I asked if it was a common issue and he said no.

I'm going to exchange it but it still doesn't explain why the seal doesn't fit correctly on my block. Mines a magnum 5.9 but it should fit the same as a LA block.

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I think you need to investigate that further. Search Moparts. I know it's been discussed before. AndyF was the last person I saw that brought it up.

Next time I see Milodon, I bring it up.

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Hi Steve, not to high jack this thread but I PMed you concerning a 340 car. Thanks.

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I'm wondering now should I put the stock pan back on with a standard vol oil pump and ditch the windage tray..

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My 360 has had an annoying leak from the oil pan ever since I changed over to 8qt mildodon pan last year. I've since tried to replace the gasket with the engine still in the car again to no success, I rtv'd around the whole thing that time which was probably a mistake. Last week I pulled the motor to repaint it and fix the few leaks I have.

What should I put on the pan gasket? Should the cork be dry or should I use some sort of sealant or adhesive? When I built the motor 6 years ago and put on a stock pan, I remember I only used a little rtv in the corners where the cork meets the rubber ends and it seemed to be leak free then....

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I have the same issues with my 416" (340) with Milodon pan. Rebuilt motor with 288 miles on it and oil pan starts leaking. Pulled headers and pan, replaced gasket and rear main seal. Then pulled motor for dyno. Made about 8 dyno pulls and no leaks. Installed motor in car and it wasnt fired up for 1 year. After motor was fired up about 3-4 times and wasnt run over 3000 rpm's, the pan started leaking again !

My front and rear seals were on the tall side too. I'm building a 410" (360) right now and using a Milodon pan. Just checked the front and rear seals and they are too tall also. I'm really getting tired of having to modify these after market parts. Headers, starter, distributor, bell housing, rocker arms, and convertible top hoses, just to name a few (high dollar) parts that I had to modify to make fit.