The kill switch on the back of my car worked fine last year. I got my car running this weekend and tested it and the car keeps running.

Looks like the wire goes from the alternator to one side of the amp gauge in the dash, the other side of the amp gauge goes to the power wire on the alternator.

How did you run your wire? I used to have it running straight from the alternator to the battery with an in-line fuse but the kill switch wouldn't work so I did it the other way and I know the darn thing worked last year.

needs to go directly to the battery before the kill switch

Thanks, I can go back to my old wire and try it again. I'm confused how the kill switch is gonna kill the alternator power if the wire is before the kill switch.

Also, where should I run my current alternator wire that came from one side of my amp gauge?

the kill switch will kill all power going to the ignition and everything. not sure about the amp guage. i don't run one just a volt meter

Pro - I recommend running a #6 wire from the alternator to the battery or battery side of the disconnect switch. No other wire should be connected to the alternator, or the shut-off probably won't work.

I highly recommend you disconnect the amp gauge. It will only be accurate if all of the power from the car (except starter) is run through it. Connections to the amp gauges have been known to get hot and be a fire hazard or power loss.

A VOLT meter is a better instrument for keeping track of whats going on. As long as there is good voltage the car should run well and it can be attached at any number of places. I like the volt meter connection at the starter relay to read what the accessories are seeing. Since the alternator should be putting out 14.8v-15.6v to charge the battery, you can be sure its working when the voltage is higher than the 12.7 the battery should have when fully charged.



Scotty

So the alternator wire will basically always be HOT. I think that was another reason that I went the new route with the wire, so it wasn't always hot.

I'll give it a try, and maybe I'll just run the other side of my amp gauge to the hot post on the starter relay or something. One side of the amp gauge goes to the hot wire on the starter. I don't really know the proper way to run an amp gauge wire.

Thanks Scott, I really do need to get a voltmeter. I loved it in my last car. The voltmeter hot wire would go to the power post on the starter relay, and the negative wire on the voltmeter would just go to a ground right?

Right now I just need to get the alternator and amp gauge working properly so I can run the car next weekend.

Put an S605 continuous duty relay in the alternator line to the battery if you want it cold when engine/switch is off. Mount it near the battery. You can trigger the relay either with a line coming from the downstream side of the cutoff switch like as follows...



OR...

use a wire which uses a switched source from your key.

The first way leaves a continuous draw on the battery when the cutoff switch in on.

Thanks, but for now I just need to know what to do with the wire that I removed from my alternator. It's the one that came from the amp gauge.

Right now the amp gauge is getting power from the power side of the starter. The other side of the amp gauge went to the alternator which I have removed and need to hook it up somewhere.

Pro - the amp meter measures current running though it. It does not have "power" to it, only through it. Currently it is the power wire to the alternator. So disconnect the amp meter from the starter connection and run it direct to the battery or the battery side of the disconnect switch.

I don't like the amp gauge as I don't feel the wires and connections to it are large enough (heavy duty enough) to carry the power from the extra loads on a high performance motor.

You can disconnect the amp gauge completely for now and just run a wire from the alternator to the battery. (preferably at least a #6 wire).

If you still have questions, give me a call when your at the car and I will walk you through it!

Scotty
217-369-7665

ok - I re-read your last post. Since you have a wire from the alternator to the battery, The amp gauge wire is no longer needed and the gauge can be disconnected at the other end as well.

If you want the amp meter to read something - it will need to be connected in series with the wire between the alternator and the battery.

Thanks, I went ahead and bought a voltmeter so I'll get it hooked up tonite.