I should re-phrase that, how do you not know you're 3 quarts down, and proceed to make a pass? That's more irresponsible than a teenage kid driving their car 5k miles without so much as checking the oil .

Wondering if the cracked pickup tube could have caused the oil starvation?
I have a easy out at the shop that you can pickup at most hardware stores. I use it to remove corrated heater hose nipples from GM aluminum intake manifolds.

Quick update: It turns out some of the piston's skirts definitely have more than just "light polishing" marks. One in particular showed some obvious scoring, although most of that seems to have cleaned up after hitting it w/ some 400 wet-or-dry and WD-40. However, the corresponding wear marks in the cylinders still make me think that I should re-hone it after touching up all the pistons.

If the pistons & cylinders hadn't show so much wear, I'd have been OK w/ putting them right back in w/ the same rings. Unfortunately, I don't think that's a reasonable option after seeing things up close.

Next step: See if my local Home Despot has one of those slick internal 1/2" pipe wrenches and take a shot at removing the broken pickup tube. Stay tuned...

CBK - Isn't it time to update your signature from:

"Just me and The Haze now. It waits in darkness... soon, soon "

to:

"Just me and The Haze now. It waits in darkness... eventually, eventually " ?

there, now i can say i fixed something today.

Quote:

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CBK - Isn't it time to update your signature from:

"Just me and The Haze now. It waits in darkness... soon, soon "

to:

"Just me and The Haze now. It waits in darkness for eternity... " ?

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Another update: Yep, the local HD had a set of those slick internal pipe wrenches.

And what was left of the pipe was too thick (or distorted) for any of them to work.

So I improvised using something w/ a long taper (a cylinder head stand, believe it or not) that allowed me to wedge it in and managed to get the broken piece out anyway. As easy as that came out, I'm confused why the pickup twisted and snapped off. The best news is the threads in the block still look good.

I also mocked up the new Milodon pickup I bought w/ the new pan and it doesn't fully tighten until it's turned 30-40 degrees past where it "should" stop to be level w/ the bottom of the pan. I figure it'll need some sort of sealant on the pickup that will allow me to position it properly, yet not allow for any air leaks around the perimeter of the threaded section. If anyone has any preferences for what to use here, let me know.

Also took a better look at the cylinder bores and there's no way I can just put it back together as is w/ a clear conscious. It's definitely going to need to be honed. So much for just slapping a new set of bearings in it and throwing it back in the car.

Sorry the internal pipe wrench tool didn't work for you. If it came out that easy there might have been a crack in the tube to cause it to starve for oil. There are a number of products you could use to seal up the threaded area on the tube . You should check out the auto parts store , you need a sealant that will semi harden, and of coarse oil resistant.

Sooo still haven't answered why you don't check your oil before making passes .

He did, he's just talked to too many Stock racers.

Good one

It`s my job.........some things just tweek me a bit.

I had the same issue....I used the can of teflon paste you buy at home depot, etc. If for sealing pipes carrying steam, oil, etc.

The pickup tube on most big block oil pans is long, and heavy.
After twice finding cracked tubes + some of my friends having cracks. I welded a brace from the windage tray to the tube to support it from G forces, oil slosh etc. That worked.
I and some of my friends have since gone to static/swinging pick ups in the pan.
Nothing quite like taking engine apart and having the pick up break off when HARDLY ANY force was exerted to remove it. Don

I also mocked up the new Milodon pickup I bought w/ the new pan and it doesn't fully tighten until it's turned 30-40 degrees past where it "should" stop to be level w/ the bottom of the pan. I figure it'll need some sort of sealant on the pickup that will allow me to position it properly, yet not allow for any air leaks around the perimeter of the threaded section. If anyone has any preferences for what to use here, let me know.



Brad could you find a thin nut and thread it onto the pickup first, then thread it into the block? kind of like indexing a spark plug? Just a suggestion/question maybe I'm way off.