Post mortem on Challenger engine
#680771
04/26/10 03:23 PM
04/26/10 03:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
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Taking time off to work on my car
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OP
Taking time off to work on my car
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
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Finally got a chance to do most of the disassembly on the Challenger's 440 yesterday and figured I'd pass on what I found. FYI, this is a tear-down resulting from having screwed up last fall and run the engine at the track while low on oil (estimate being down 3 quarts) due to not identifying a "mystery" oil leak that turned out to be a broken spot weld in my oil pan. I'll give the highlights (lowlights?) now and will see about taking pictures later to add some visual context to my descriptions. So, w/ that introduction... Rod bearings: All are toasted and look pretty much exactly like what the Clevite bearing problem tech sheet shows as being subject to oil starvation. I was wondering if maybe they'd look better the closer to the oil pump, but they all look like crap. I'll also mention that the bearings have all lost their crush and basically fell right out of the rods when the caps were loosened. Main bearings: TBD... I haven't had a chance to pry off the Pro-Gram 3-bolt center caps, yet. Given the rod bearings' condition, I'm not expecting anything good. Crank: The rod journals are not scored excessively, but they all show wear marks that I expect won't just polish out. This crank is already .010"/.010", so I guess it's time for another one. Pistons: These are custom Ross pistons which replaced the previous JEs when I had to take the bore out from 4.375" to 4.380". All of them have some vertical wear "stripes" on the skirts that correspond to "polished" stripes in their respective cylinder bores. I don't know if this is indicative of having been run w/ insufficient lubrication, or possibly the piston-to-wall clearance was too tight, or ??? I don't see any issues w/ being able to clean up the skirts w/ 600 wet-or-dry and re-honing the bores, though. Lifters: The Schubecks look fine. I was wondering if I was going to find any more odd swirl marks etched into the ceramic pucks like I did on a couple of them when I tore the engine down in 2000, but they all look good. (I had them touched up by Joe S. before putting them back in service in 2002). Timing chain: The Pro-Gear setup still looks tight. Oil pan: There's sludge in the bottom of the pan. Is this a side-effect of running Brad Penn? I never saw sludge when using Valvoline VR-1 or Mobil 1, so I suspect it's the BP I started running in 2008. I don't like sludge... Oil pickup tube: Uhhhhh... it snapped when I was trying to remove it. And since it broke off while still in the block, I can't tell whether the pipe threads in the block are stripped out or not. "Something" doesn't look right on the remaining threads that were left on the part that broke off, either. Anybody know where I can find an E-Z Out for a 1/2" NPT tube? So, now I'm wondering if the internal oil pump pickup threads are trashed, leaving me w/ no option but to convert to an external pickup setup in order to still use this block. Considering I was trying to stay w/ a low-profile "Street Hemi" style pan, hanging a 7" sump w/ an external feed line, etc., wasn't in my (original) plans.
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: BradH]
#680772
04/26/10 03:38 PM
04/26/10 03:38 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293 Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer
master
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master
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Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
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Well that sucks Brad...I had a similar problem happen in "06" when I experienced a oil starvation problem when using a stock oil pan and Indy heads with stock (unrestricted) oil line kit. I smoked two rods, they were hot enough to turn blue. But surprisingly the mains looked good, i didnt even replaced the bearings. The rods on the last throw #7/8 took the beating. I guess they are furthest away from the oil pump... I ended up turning the Eagle Crank .020 which created a problem finding the narrow bearings in a the .020 size. I ended up using a Federal Molgul bearing. and it clear the fillet just fine. I assume when turned the crank down the fillets were cut a little too..But anyways that engine went on to be a great engine...running countless runs eventually making well over 700 hp. The sludge might be a combination of things, if you use Moly lube it could be that. Or it could just be babbit/bearing material which I have seen on engines personally which has suffered from the same problems...The engine I spoke of early had quite a bit of sludge. It wasnt assembly lube either. Have the crank mag'd if it checks out have them too turn it .020.
[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color] [color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: BradH]
#680775
04/26/10 04:30 PM
04/26/10 04:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Taking time off to work on my car
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In no particular order... It's an OEM crank being used in a 600 HP engine... it's probably good money after bad to put any more $$$ into it, when the fuse is probably already lit on it w/ this application. I'll have it mag-checked, regardless, before making any decision on reusing it. I'd already been contemplating putting a better crank in it even before this weekend. I'd REALLY rather not have to switch to an external oil system. After looking over the external systems in Andy's and Chuck Senatore's BB books, it's just that much more complexity I want to avoid for a street car. It's a shame the block has already had ProGram 3-bolt caps added, bushed lifter bores, etc., only to have this happen to it.
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: BradH]
#680776
04/26/10 05:05 PM
04/26/10 05:05 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,852 MI, usa
dvw
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,852
MI, usa
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Heres my take. Rod big ends measure ok and have no discoloration,use em. Piston to wall clearance within acceptable limits,use em. Crank not out of round, tapered, or cracked, polish it and use it. Running with a few low spots (crank,piston and cylinder wall scratches) really doesn't matter in the scheme of things. Broken oil pick-up, no big deal. Drill it out and clean threads w/tap. You could replace all this stuff,make it perfect, to what end? How much quicker will you go? If your gonna replace some parts you might as well do em all. How many engines are running with a little extra clearance and a few scuffs. Problems begin with cracked,fatigued,and substandard parts. I'd rather run with a little wear myself. Good luck Doug
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: dvw]
#680777
04/26/10 07:03 PM
04/26/10 07:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
OP
Taking time off to work on my car
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OP
Taking time off to work on my car
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I haven't ruled out any options at this point. And I'm that I'll be able to remove what's left of the broken pickup tube and still have usable threads left to put in a new one. FWIW, this exercise isn't looking for new HP, it's trying to keep what I have... and keep it from going "Boom!" on the way driving the car to or from the track. EDIT: So, in case the pickup threads in the block are hosed... does anyone run the Milodon 30931 pan w/ the external feed in a stock-chassis + headers combination?
Last edited by Captain Budget!; 04/26/10 07:41 PM.
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: topside]
#680779
04/26/10 08:11 PM
04/26/10 08:11 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225 Charleston
sixpackgut
Drag Week Mod Champion
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Drag Week Mod Champion
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225
Charleston
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Brad, i need to go to ups later this week, if you can wait, i'll send you some easy outs that should work.
the sludge doesnt sound good to me at all, could be a combination of hot oil, bearing and piston material
Gen 3 power 6.22@110, 9.85@135 Follow @g3hemiswap on instagram
performance only racing, CRT, ultimate converter, superior design concepts, ThumperCarbs
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: dvw]
#680781
04/26/10 08:41 PM
04/26/10 08:41 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,675 Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
roadhazard
master
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Joined: Apr 2006
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Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
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Quote:
Heres my take. Rod big ends measure ok and have no discoloration,use em. Piston to wall clearance within acceptable limits,use em. Crank not out of round, tapered, or cracked, polish it and use it. Running with a few low spots (crank,piston and cylinder wall scratches) really doesn't matter in the scheme of things. Broken oil pick-up, no big deal. Drill it out and clean threads w/tap. You could replace all this stuff,make it perfect, to what end? How much quicker will you go? If your gonna replace some parts you might as well do em all. How many engines are running with a little extra clearance and a few scuffs. Problems begin with cracked,fatigued,and substandard parts. I'd rather run with a little wear myself. Good luck Doug
Your name IS "Captain Budget" isn't it Crank is good @ -.020 with your HP but don't overlook the rod bolts
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: sixpackgut]
#680782
04/26/10 08:55 PM
04/26/10 08:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,928 NC
440Jim
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 16,928
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Quote:
the sludge doesnt sound good to me at all, could be a combination of hot oil, bearing and piston material
I think the sludge is not related to the Brad Penn oil. No doubt a synthetic would hold up better with overheated bearings, but the oil isn't the cause, IMO.
The block should be able to be salvaged, it don't sound too bad. Just a pain-in-the-neck to get the broken pickup out.
Oil starvation is just a bad deal all-around. I like the full groove main bearings to put more oil to the rods. It might be overkill in normal racing, but when things get marginal, it protects from excessive damage to due heat (oil cools the rod bearings).
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: 440Jim]
#680783
04/26/10 09:09 PM
04/26/10 09:09 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257 gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
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gulfport, ms, west mi
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On your broken pickup tube, it is tubing which is thin walled, I would use a internal pipe removal tool to get it out. It place's constant pressure on the inside wall to remove instead of just at the top. Also you might not have enough depth for a easy out to work. If your threads are goobbered up just retap, coat with a good sealant.
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: BradH]
#680784
04/26/10 09:34 PM
04/26/10 09:34 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 276 Temecula, Ca.
zzyzxpat
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 276
Temecula, Ca.
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A #7 Easyout should work to remove your broken pickup. Good luck!
" The last official act of any goverment, is to loot the treasury" George Washington
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: BradH]
#680787
04/26/10 10:02 PM
04/26/10 10:02 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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Brad, I have found that the Ross piston skirts seem to be very delicate, they look like there damaged and worn when there not I have since switch to Diamond psitons because of that, it's hard to explain to a customer that a ugly looking piston skirt isn't really hurt I'm assuming your going to rering it, have your machine shop hone the block enough to make the cylinders round and straight and stick a set of rings on them pistons if they measure okay and the ringland side clearance is okay, not more than .0035 side clearances Mag the crank and if it is not crack have it polished and measure it then, if it's still round throw some bearings in it and run it. I hear you on the block, my 527 has bushed lifter bores, ductile iroon main caps on all five mains and so on, hard to let a block go with that much work in it. All that work was done before the World blocks came out I'm getting ready to throw some(two) pistons, rings and bearings in it and give it another go I melted two pistons in it last time on the dyno Oh well, motors are like kitty cats if you pull thier tale long enough they will bite you
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: 1_WILD_RT]
#680788
04/26/10 10:04 PM
04/26/10 10:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Quote:
Fix for the broken pick up tube.. $12.00 @ Home Depot
Thanks. I almost stopped off at Home Despot on the way home from work tonight, but wouldn't have even known to look for these. Looks like new tool time...
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: CokeBottleKid]
#680792
04/27/10 03:15 AM
04/27/10 03:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,697 Renton Wa
topfueldart
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Renton Wa
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Quote:
I should re-phrase that, how do you not know you're 3 quarts down, and proceed to make a pass? That's more irresponsible than a teenage kid driving their car 5k miles without so much as checking the oil .
I was gonna make a smartazz comment about it not being hard to keep the oil level high when you don't make any hits in multiple years, but then I remembered Brad took a long break too
11.48 @ 120 with a 1.80 60' 318, stock 1.88 heads, stock 904, Pump Gas, 13 lbs of boost.
9.94 @ 134, 318 on pump gas, 14 lbs w/ Eddies, transbrake 727, 3600 lbs, 3.54 gear and 28's.
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: Challenger 1]
#680796
04/27/10 05:00 PM
04/27/10 05:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Quote:
Wondering if the cracked pickup tube could have caused the oil starvation?
Honestly, I don't think it was cracked before I had to on it to get it to come out.
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: CokeBottleKid]
#680797
04/27/10 05:02 PM
04/27/10 05:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Val-haul-ass... eventually
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CBK - Isn't it time to update your signature from: "Just me and The Haze now. It waits in darkness... soon, soon " to: "Just me and The Haze now. It waits in darkness... eventually, eventually " ?
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: BradH]
#680798
04/27/10 08:15 PM
04/27/10 08:15 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: BradH]
#680799
04/27/10 11:23 PM
04/27/10 11:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Another update: Yep, the local HD had a set of those slick internal pipe wrenches. And what was left of the pipe was too thick (or distorted) for any of them to work. So I improvised using something w/ a long taper (a cylinder head stand, believe it or not) that allowed me to wedge it in and managed to get the broken piece out anyway. As easy as that came out, I'm confused why the pickup twisted and snapped off. The best news is the threads in the block still look good. I also mocked up the new Milodon pickup I bought w/ the new pan and it doesn't fully tighten until it's turned 30-40 degrees past where it "should" stop to be level w/ the bottom of the pan. I figure it'll need some sort of sealant on the pickup that will allow me to position it properly, yet not allow for any air leaks around the perimeter of the threaded section. If anyone has any preferences for what to use here, let me know. Also took a better look at the cylinder bores and there's no way I can just put it back together as is w/ a clear conscious. It's definitely going to need to be honed. So much for just slapping a new set of bearings in it and throwing it back in the car.
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: CokeBottleKid]
#680806
04/28/10 12:08 AM
04/28/10 12:08 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
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Taking time off to work on my car
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Quote:
Sooo still haven't answered why you don't check your oil before making passes .
Here's the deal (and I've stated this before, but it's been months): The car had no history of oil consumption, so I rarely felt the need to check the level for normal street use. It had been less than 1000 miles since the last change and I'd ASSUMED it was fine.
Well, it turned out that a spot weld holding the front baffle in the pan had broken loose and oil was escaping through the pinhole where the weld broke. I didn't clue in to what the slightly lower oil pressure at cruising speed was trying to tell me on the way to the track, and also had a temporary glitch w/ my oil pressure sending unit while in the staging lanes that made me disregard what I believed to be bogus readings after that.
It wasn't until I my second pass that day at the track when I noticed the pressure dropped noticeably on the big end. I checked the level and found it way low, and also saw oil collecting under the engine. At that point I added oil, packed up my stuff, and drove the car home, pulling over periodically to check the level and add oil as necessary.
The amount of time it was running low on oil, including some full-out 1/4 mile passes on the track (it turns about 7000 RPM going through the traps) was all it took to do the damage I've described above.
There's really nothing else I can say on the subject.
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Re: Post mortem on Challenger engine
[Re: M_D]
#680809
04/28/10 09:38 AM
04/28/10 09:38 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,131 New Lenox IL
cudadon
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,131
New Lenox IL
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The pickup tube on most big block oil pans is long, and heavy. After twice finding cracked tubes + some of my friends having cracks. I welded a brace from the windage tray to the tube to support it from G forces, oil slosh etc. That worked. I and some of my friends have since gone to static/swinging pick ups in the pan. Nothing quite like taking engine apart and having the pick up break off when HARDLY ANY force was exerted to remove it. Don
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