The blue wire goes to ground not power... The reason you only want to do this briefly is there is no 10 ohm resistor so if you leave the key on it will smoke the gauge...

To ise the resistors a couple wires with alligator clips works well...

Just hook a test light to the hot wire at the sender.It should nlink.If it dosent either the V limiter is bad or break in the wire to the sender.Rocky

Well, thanks guys for all of the help. I basically give up though. Nothing I try works, so with my luck, it's the gauge itself. At this point, I refuse to tear everything apart to replace the fuel gauge. The easiest thing to do is to try another sender, but it's a crap shoot at best. Plus, once I buy it and install it, it's mine, and I have no need for another sender at this point. Besides, I always seem to spill about 2 gallons of gas trying to take it out. My little siphon that I have is terrible, and I can never get enough gas out before removing the sender. Therefore, I give up! Besides, the car runs fine, and it's nice to take it for a little spin when I want too, and not have things torn apart. Later this year I'll buy a 2 5/8 fuel gauge from Summit, slap it in, and hopefully fix (or bypass) the original problem. My car's a driver, so I'm not going for originality.

Ok, I got pissed again, and had to do something. I jerked out the sending unit and tried it out of the tank. Sure enough, when the float arm is all the way up, the gauge only reads 1/2.

Tomorrow I'll be trying another sending unit, so I should know tomorrow if it's either the gauge or the sender.

Check out the sending unit from Dixie restoration products the price is good and it made by the same vendor that made them for Chrysler. www.dixierestorationparts.com

Had a problem like that. Ended up being the gauge. cant you ground the sending unit wire and see if the gaue reads full to make sure the gauge works?

I was talking to Gentry (1 of the owners) @ Auto Instrument and here's how he explained to check all of the gauges on a Mopar cluster....I should say it was my Ralley cluster..Your gauges all read the same E 1/2 F
73 27 10 ohm
thats the scale for all the gauges,oil temp,etc.. they all read the same Ohms the best way is to get the tank empty and pull the sender wire and put you meter on the term.,turn the key on and it should read 73 ohms,then add gas to 1/2 and you should be at 27 ohms,then fill it and you should have 10 ohms.This will be the same for oil press.,temp. Like first start(cold engine) up oil gauge should read 10 ohms(high pressure)and 73 ohms for temp.(cold engine)....and so on until you get the right readings, THE BIGGEST problem are mis-matched senders to gauge cluster...but here's a way to check to sender vs.gauge....I hope this helps you can PM if you need more info....

That's interesting. I'll have to try that with a helper in the morning.

All 3 except Alt.can be done this way,I'm going to do mine Sat.since the dash rebuild came back.So good luck and I hope you find the problem..

I tried another sending unit this morning. Sure enough, both senders read the same on the gauge. At full stop, the gauge was only 3/4, then it would drop drastically. At 3/4 on the sender the gauge was at below 1/2 already. 1/2 on the sender was between E and 1/4. So, I'm of the opinion now that it's for sure the gauge.

That said, I went to Summit earlier and picked up an Auto Meter fuel gauge and plan to install it Friday morning. I'm definitely not spending 3 hrs to rip out my dash and go from there.

That said, I went to Summit earlier and picked up an Auto Meter fuel gauge and plan to install it Friday morning. I'm definitely not spending 3 hrs to rip out my dash and go from there.

Hope you have better luck than I did. I tried the exact same thing and my Auto Meter gauge read same as dash gauge. Just trying to live with the dash gauge for now. Been watching this thread as my problem sounds exactly like yours. Again good luck,sure wish I could get mine reading correct.

New fuel gauge is in, and nothing solved.



I give up.

Thanks for the help though guys.

Ok, I just got my Sending unit and it didnt work like it should so I decided to take it apart and see what is wrong with it. First I had to bend back the three tabs that hold the sending unit together.

You can see the resistor portion which a flexible copper tab rides against as the floating arm moves. Here is a picture of the resistor portion which is partially colored yellow. I am sure each little section equates to 1 ohm or so.

And finally the solution. Just bend the copper tab back so that it makes a harder contact whith resistor part as the swinging float moves.

Then put it back together and rebend the 3 metal tabs. Hope this helps.

I adjusted mine and got it nearly perfect.
The trick was to bend the float arm where it comes out of the sender so that when the float is fully up it will actually go up further on the mechanism inside do not bend the float arm on the end. I also bent the top stop back so to give the arm more travel.I hope this makes sence i took mine in and out three times before i worked out how to get it right.My original guage used to read over full. The new one reads just under full when i put the repro one in it first read 3/4 full.If i took it out again i could probably get it spot on.