I am close to getting my 65 Coronet RB 4-speed conversion done. However, in getting the clutch adjusted I noticed the pedal will not return all the way up upon release.

I am using a 3 finger Mcleod clutch, and Scattershield. I even disconnected the clutch rod from the pedal. The pedal still won't return.

I bought the pedals and spring used. I am wondering if the over center spring is the issue.

I have the spring installed that if you look up under the dash the spring is on the carpet side of the pedal assembly pivot (mount) bolt. The big coil end is torward the seat.

I can see where the long part of the spring rubs this pivot (mount) point.

Does this sound correct?

Perhaps someone can take a look at a factory setup and let me know what is correct.

Thanks,

Can you manually pull the pedal up against its stop? Do you have a return spring on the throwout fork?

Yes, I can pull it up to the stop pretty easy. I do have the spring on the fork.

When you let up on the clutch pedal it releases fine until you get to what would seem to be the free play area, about the last inch of the pedal travel. I can then pull it up.

I looked at the pedal assemblies on Brewers sight and it looks like I have the spring on correct.

It appears the spring loop near the fire wall is slipping on the pedal pin. It does not look like a very sharp loop, has a big radius. I may have opened it up when trying to install it (before someone on here suggested lengthening the spring with washers).

Any suggestions John? New pedal spring?

Thanks,

If there is too much free play in the pedal it won't return to the stop, try setting the free play at the fork at 5/32".

I have adjusted the fork rod all the way out and it still will not return All the way.

The 5/32, is this the gap between the throw out bearing and clutch?

Do I remove the fork spring, push the fork till it stops on the clutch and then leave a 5/32 gap between the adjusting nut and fork? Then re-attach spring?

Thanks,

I just took another look. If I remove the adjusting rod, pull the fork until it touches the bearing, and push the torque shaft against the pedal, the adjusting rod is not long enough.

I then put the metal washer on the adjusting rod with only 2 threads stickng through it and slipped it in position. This left a little play before the fork touched the clutch.

This did make the pedal return as it should. The problem is the adjusting rod is not engaged into the fork, but only the bushing.

It is like the torque shaft is not clocked correctly. Or I need a longer rod coming from the clutch pedal so the other end of the torque shaft is closer to the fork.

Darn!!

Is there a half-ball shaped part or rubber grommet at the end of the rod that engages the pocket in the throwout fork? If not you're missing a part. The adjusting nut should bear against a thick washer that bears against the grommet or half-ball

The 5/32" is between the end of the rod and the throwout fork.

I do have the thick metal washer and the grommet in the fork.

I have the factory 65 Coronet/Dart book and all the pieces in their pics are present.

It looks as though the clutch fork is positioned to far torwards the transmission or the throw out bearing is short.

There is to much space between the fork and torque shaft.

I used the fork bracket that came with the lakewood housing.

ive got a similar problem on a -70 bb,when driving nice the clutchpedal returns up,but if i rev it high on 1st gear and put it in second the clutchpedal sticks to the floor for a couple of seconds until the rpm,s come down,then the pedal returns from the floor.not fun.but ive got a diagram pressure plate and the overcenter spring still there.i guess i will try with removing the over-c spring.anyway in my old dc-bible it says that when you step on the clutch there should be a 0.60" space between flywheel and clutch.

On some of those McCleod clutches you have to remove the clutch pedal over center spring for proper operation as it says on Brewer's site.

I'm getting ready to go through the same process on my 65 Coronet, so I hope you get yours ironed out and share it with us. I'll keep an eye on this thread and see how it goes.

In talking with Brewers he said I should be ok with the over center spring and a 3 finger clutch. He did say If I had a diaphram clutch I would want to remove it.

My issue seems to be this. When you move the fork torwards the back of the car and bring the throw out bearing in contact with the clutch, the adjusting rod is no longer engaged with the fork. There is a lot of travel on the fork before it contacts the clutch.

Could the fork pivot bracket in the bell housing be the issue? Is it to short which puts the fork to far rearward? I don't know.

Could I shim the pivot bracket torwards the clutch thus shortening the gap between the fork and torque shaft?

Or, could I just lengthen the adjuster and move on?

Slim, I will update as I get this resolved.

Let me know if you run into any issues.

PS, Brewers is great to deal with!

Thanks,

One more thing Slim. If you use the Lakewood bellhousing the position of the fork pivot will need moved up 1/2" (example- move it from 3 o'clock to 2 O'clock looking into the bell from the egine side) per Brewers.

It is not a big deal to drill and tap.

Thanks,

The early B body cars have the transmission in a different position than the later cars. I'm sure the Lakewood bellhousing is designed for the later cars, not the early B body ones.

Here is a picture of the Lakewood bellhousing in my '65 Coronet. I had to modify it quite a bit before the linkage worked properly.

I will say that the Lakewood bellhousing left a lot to be desired in terms of its design. The way the starter was mounted and the clutch linkage was designed just didn't work for me. I had to redesign all of that before I could get it to work. But my engine has been moved back so I'm sure that complicated the process a bit for me.

I built my own cross shaft also because I thought the stock one was too wimpy. Here is what the full setup looks like when completed.

I used the pivot from my 65 Bell in my Lakewood.That and I believe there are 2 mounting spots in the Lwood for it to bolt to.Rocky

I bought my bell used and the pivot was already in it. I don't know the application.

Andy, that is pretty impressive how you did your own. Looks good and stout.

Do you guys see any reason not to shim the pivot torward the clutch to correct the gap? Other than the hassle of dropping the tranny...

Thanks,

I have a known "80's vintage" 2-piece Lakewood on my 65 - hayes gold clutch - stock over center spring and a return spring on the fork.

Everything lined up and worked perfectly. Stock z-bar, fork, original trans and engine mounts

Car is factory 4- speed street wedge and the ONLY modification was a simple bend in the fork return spring.


Since you said "conversion" Where did you purchase the rest of the pieces from?

I am trying to rule out wrong fork, adjusting rod, clutch rod or zbar..

I bought the pedals, over center spring, z bar, clutch to z bar rod (16.5"), z bar frame bracket and adjuster used from a guy who took them off his 62 or 63 b body.

I bought the bell housing bracket, clutch fork and bushing, return spring, adjuster washer, clips and bushings from Brewers.

The bell was used with the pivot in it.

The fork looks to be about 10.5" long.

Thanks,

I am going to try an A body adjuster as it is 2" longer. Hopefully this will coorect my problem.

I think the pivot is my issue as all else looks ok.

Thanks,