i just purchased a full manual reverse pattern valve body with low apply from CRT and have never done any trans work other than change the filter. could somebody give me some info on how i should go about installing ive heard its not really too hard. any tips or tricks would be great!

you have to remove the shift levers which is just loosening the clamping nuts and i think one "E" clip, can't remember for sure. then remove the neutral safety switch and the 10 valve body bolts, and drop out the valve body while working out the "park" rod that runs toward the tailshaft. if it doesn't want to come out, rotate the tailshaft or driveshaft a bit. oh, i think you need to put the trans in neutral before starting. i probably left something out but a FSM or carl monroe's book will help you a lot. good luck.

Remove the kick down lever arm and the shift lever arm from the original valve body. Drain the trans fluid and remove the trans pan. Remove the 10 1/4" bolts (7/16" socket) holding the valve body to the case. Pull the valve body down a bit then forward to get the park rod out of the tail shaft. If the park rod is difficult to remove or install, rotate the driveshaft/output shaft so the lock will engage.
Remove the "E" clip holding the park rod to the valve body shifter, remove the rod and install it on the new valve body.
If you had a shift kit installed, make sure there is no restrictor installed in the holes under the front pump.
Install the new valve body, sliding the park rod back into the tail shaft housing first. Install the new filter, replace the trans pan, and install the shift lever arm.
The manual valve body is supposed to use all 15 return springs in the front clutch assembly, but you would have to remove the trans and dissasemble it to change the number of springs.


That is the how to. You may want to also replace the shifter shaft seal in the case, install a solid or shimmed modified rear servo.

I just did a crt FMFSLBA VB myself

did you get the rev/low servo to go with it?

that was fun under the truck putting the strut bar back in

change the shift selector shaft seal while you have it down so the new VB will have a nice clean seal

put lever in park turn drive shaft till it locks in park

remove levers

when droping the VB out you may have to slowly turn the drive shaft till the park rod slids out..do not move the drive shaft after its removed,then it will go right back in with out fighting it

drop VB then install servo the replace VB

what they siad too

my crt Vb had a restricter to go in under the front pump and a plug to go on the rear a sold blocker rod for the acumalator and I installed the crt servo and thicker retainer and spring with it
adjusted the bands up and buttoned it up

why would it not have the restrictor in there?? are you say if it had a shift kit before the manual VB??

doesnt the full manual VB have a shift kit already in it??

Did it not come w/ instructions? Go to summitracin.com and look up a Turbo Action man valve body. Then print the instructions. It's not that hard.

call John at CRT and he will advise you on his product

he was very helpful with me and wanted to make sure I under stood why I was doing what I was doing with adjustments and install

he has a free tech hr and you can PM here on the board user name "CRT"

very good straight forward custermer service in my book

If you have the forward pattern valve body it may use the direct clutch restrictor plug in the case.
From the instructions on Copes web page, the reverse pattern shifters do not use a restrictor plug.

Here is what is posted at
http://www.crtteno.com/crttranstech.htm

Instruction : CRT & A&A reverse manual valve body with low band apply

Install all 15 springs into the front drum. If your piston only has 10 springs, CRT offers the 15 spring pistons and new springs. Use the late 1.40 springs only.

Stock clutches will work. Alto red racing clutches work better. Set front clutch at .070 - 0.79 .

Band adjustment = front band 72 inch lbs back off 2 turns. Rear band 72 inch lbs back off 2&1/4 turns.

Lever ratios = 3.2 & 3.8 works good. 4.2 with 62-70 front servo and 2 springs works best. Never use the 5.0 lever with this valve body. Heavy duty band strut will prevent strut from bending.

If your case has a orifice restrictor ( common with TF-2 shift kits ) remove it.

You can use a stock dacron ( works best) or a brass high flow filter.

CRT has found that ATF+3 transmission fluid works the best.
Made by Mopar or Pennsoil Dextron II or III work well also

Shim rear servo, or install the billet servo kit.
Shim front servo 71 & later, or install 62-70 billet servo kit.
Install teflon sealing rings on pump stator .Never do 1st gear burn outs in water box. Always use SFI shield / blanket. For your safty, its best to install a front billet drum.

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oops..I do have the forward shift pattern

thanks for all the info. if i dont have 15 springs will it still work or is that prefered for best performance ?

I second the "give John Cope a call"! I did the swap you are referring to last fall and worked with him on the install. It's really pretty easy, and took me all of about an hour.

You will like that VB! That's the one I have and it shifts beautifully!