It has been awhile since I have done this so I have got a couple questions. The cam is a hydralic, will I need one solid lifter to do this and if so will I also need a longer of shorter pushrod? Since the cam is a xe262 in a street driven 340 is it even worth the time.

I have the same cam in my roadrunner, except my motor is the 383.

I made sure I had the comp timing set for consistancy. I set it up dot-to-dot and just ran it. It has run great.

A friend of mine degreed every comp cam he had to see how far "off" it was. Comp was usually right on out of the box, maybe 1 or 2 of all the cams her tried was one degree off at the most, and these were XE cams too.

So, short of it. Line them up and run it.

eight

Thanks for the feedback. That is kind of what I was thinking.

grab a pair of junk hyd lifters and epoxy the cups solid the same distance down as you plan to run for preload ie .020" and degree it. I'm not a cam guy and I dont know if checking w a deeper (or shallower) lifter and or a shorter/longer pushrod will alter the wipe pattern produced from the fulcrum effect but having this distance correct will make it guaranteed OK as in you'll see exactly what the eng will see whether that be OK or not OK. I'd degree it and check the pushrod length and wipe pattern. Even if this cam checks out OK it'll prepare you for the next time. Cant assume ANY part is good.

Here is some good info I will paste for finding centerline..

Step 5. Maximum Lift and Intake Centerline. Install an unoiled hydraulic lifter on #1 intake. Set up the dial indicator so that you can measure the amount of lift on the lifter. Everything needs to be perpendicular and properly aligned. The indicator shaft should sit on the lip of the lifter (not in the cup). Once this is properly aligned, rotate the crank clockwise until the lifter is on the bottom (base) of the cam lobe. This is the lowest point so the dial indicator can now be set to 0. Begin rotating the crank until you reach maximum lift (.313 on 270H). At maximum lift, reset the dial indicator to 0. Now rotate the crank in the opposite direction, smoothly and very slowly, stopping at .100" below maximum lift. Now, reverse rotation until the dial indicator reads .050" before maximum lift. Take a reading off the degreeing wheel and mark that number on the wheel (or use masking tape and write it down on the wheel). Continue rotating the crank past maximum lift until you reach .050" below it and stop. [You are taking readings on both sides of the cam lobe.] Read the wheel and note the number of degrees. Take these numbers (example, 1st reading, 62 degrees; second, 150 degrees ) and add them (62+150=212). Divide this number in half (212/2=106) and you will have confirmed the intake centerline (106). [Additional note: Go through this procedure twice to verify your numbers. Accuracy takes practice. For additional information on degreeing cams, consult the cam manufacture's degreeing instructions.]

exactly what JimS said. start with the timing marks straight up. use the lip of the lifter and take readings 50 before and 50 after; add up; /2. I like the multiple keyed timing sets on big blocks- super easy. Small blocks get the offset keys as an option. I have done numerous Comp XE cams- most only about 2 degrees off.