I tried Pertonix and they could not help. I want to keep this car as VISUALLY correct as possible by using the stock distributor. What is anyone using for conversion to get the better spark and NOT using the dual points?

I wasn't so much after a stock look as I just had my original dist. curved & limited the way I wanted so I removed one set of points from it. Then I hid an old MSD-6 box triggered by the one set of points, which have been in the distributor since the late 80's, along with MSD. You can run the wires for the MSD in the regular wire loom that goes over the right valve cover with plastic tape & you still just have one wire to the distributor. Exactly no difference what-so-ever in 1/4 mile et or speed but starts & idles so much better & seems like better throttle response. I won't tell you where to hide the MSD box but I will tell you, not by the radio if you intend to listen to it!

I'm assuming Pertronix doesn't offer an electronic conversion for a dual point? I've heard people have been able to make them run pretty stout. Your limited by the amperage the points can pass. I'd find the best point sets you can locate and experiment w lesser ohms on the ballast along w a hotter coil (ohms/turn ratio)

did they stop making it? I know they offered a dual point conversion kit for a while.

Still availiable,pt.#1283

I'm using the pertronix in the original dual point (prestolite) distributor.

Phasing is crappy and needed to be modified.

I tune my '65 Dual Point distributor about once every 3-4 years. I bought a good set of Napa Echelin Points and condenser in 2001 and havent had even burned one yet.

The hardest part of it was that it took troubleshooting to get the right points from them, cuz the dual-point distributors the points go the opposite direction as the standard point distributors.

I've never even had an urge to try to change over to E-ignition on it.

Now on my 68, I converted the single point to standard electronic igntion with the kit right after I got it.

My .02, if you want to keep the stock look, why not just keep it stock. The dual-point is hotter ignition than single point, it is consistent, and IMO, fairly low maintenance for points.

No the red is the power source for the Pertronix, the black goes to the coil. It has nothing to do with it.

Phasing is the relationship between the rotor and the cap terminal. In a perfect world they would overlap fully when the coil is fired.

On my Pertronix I (dual point Prestolite)module the gap between the terminal and rotor was more than 1 rotor width apart. which expained why I had a hard time setting timing with my timing light.

I tried different timing lights, collar on the intermediate shaft....

Turned out the phasing was crap. I ended up rotating the plate and disconnecting the vacuum advance, which in my case was okay since the engine produced minimal vacuum and I wasn't using the vacuum advance anyway.

Could be a bunch different reasons why the Cuda ran poorly with the MP electronics distributor. Phasing could easily explain it, bad Orange box ...

As for the MP distributors the new ones (~ post 2002) are made by Mallory have have the nice feature of being able to set mech advance with a torx srcrew driver (no welding/filing required).

That being said, the reluctor that comes with them are not backwards compatible with the older Mopar distributors. Believe it or not the new distributor reluctors ID are smaller so the older reluctor are loose and vice versa, I haven't played with many of these so maybe I'm just lucky. I've also witnessed the newer distributors retard at higher RPM.

I was working on a buddies new MP distributor, the factory put the roll pin in the wrong hole on the reluctor (small block position) so the phasing was out to lunch. Even after that it wasn't great. In the end the fix was to drill a new location hole in the reluctor.

Richard E modified reluctor doesn't work with the newer distributors (has extra pin locations to adjust phasing and it works great when used on the older style MP distributors).

Up until the 'Cuda issues, I have always had good luck with the MP kits. This time around though, I realized I don't drive this car all that often, so why bother figuring it out (two summers of issues now) and just go to the factory dual points, so far, so good and they couldn't be any simpler