|
honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
#660791
04/04/10 06:58 PM
04/04/10 06:58 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 565
IA
landon1
OP
mopar
|
OP
mopar
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 565
IA
|
i was all fired up about taking apart the front end and getting it all tightened-up. now i'm not so sure i want to get into it. the removal of torsion bars and all the problems associated with removing control arm bushings has me a little worried.
is it really as bad as some say?
'71 Satellite Sebring 440
|
|
|
Re: honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
[Re: landon1]
#660794
04/04/10 07:29 PM
04/04/10 07:29 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,623
Millinocket, Maine
JonC
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,623
Millinocket, Maine
|
I agree, after you have done it, it seems that it wasn't really that hard. I used my local High School auto shop, metal fab shop and welding shop to help with tools I didn't have (presses, lathes, welder, etc.) and the teachers were more than happy to oblige as it gave the students real life things to do. It's worth checking out and when the students see your car going down the road they have bragging rights. Not that I would actually have them do a lot, but have them help you.
|
|
|
Re: honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
[Re: ahy]
#660797
04/04/10 09:34 PM
04/04/10 09:34 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 565
IA
landon1
OP
mopar
|
OP
mopar
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 565
IA
|
no, i wasn't planning on replacing the torsion bars...hoping to get by with just keeping the stockers in there. i probably could swing the extra cost, but that is the main reason i didn't want to replace them, plus i've heard of some bad news of larger bars with headers. i knew i needed to get the upper bj socket, was hoping i didn't need to invest in anymore tools, but if i have to i will. i think i can handle it...the hardest part may be talking my dad's wife into letting her car sit outside 
'71 Satellite Sebring 440
|
|
|
Re: honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
[Re: MonGoo$e]
#660799
04/04/10 09:44 PM
04/04/10 09:44 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,518
Indiana
MonGoo$e
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,518
Indiana
|
I'm doing up a stroker motor, and I'm keeping the original 318 torsion bars. If you don't already have one, get a front sway bar, a nice thick one, it'll take some of the grunt the bigger bars would handle, yet overall give you a better ride quality, plus it'll handle a lot better. If you already have a bar, great, you'll have the tabs on the control arms, just upgrade size if you want a little more firmness in the front.
My car didn't have the tabs, so I made some and welded them up. Added the Addco 1 1/8" bar.
All my control arm bushings I removed myself (wow) and had a shop install them. everything else is simple given a few tools you'll need.
Torsion bars are easy to remove just by unfastening lower control arm, and prying it back, the t-bar comes un-done from the frame, and you can wiggle the control arm free of the bar.
Good luck.
|
|
|
Re: honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
[Re: landon1]
#660801
04/04/10 10:22 PM
04/04/10 10:22 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
|
It's pretty easy. A few pointers. 1. If you buy the socket to remove the upper Ball Joints leave the UCA's in the car to remove them. It is better at holding the UCA's than any shop vise would be. As a matter of fact I will break the Ball Joint Studs loose from the spindle but leave the Upper Ball Joints nuts on and remove them first (After relieveing the T-Bar Tension). This allows you to use a big cheater bar and the suspension's weight will keep the UCA from moving around on you. 2. If you do not want to invest in a bunch of tools just get a regular front end or machine shop to replace the bushings and upper Balljoints. If it is a 73 or later B body have them do the lower ball joints too. There is no shame in farming out things. 3. Decide what kind of bushings and parts you want before you do any work. Poly bushings do not usually require you to remove the bearing shells but Stock ones do. 4. Take your time and expect to break a sweat but it's easy. 
|
|
|
Re: honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
[Re: 1_WILD_RT]
#660804
04/04/10 11:44 PM
04/04/10 11:44 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
ahy
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
|
Quote:
Everyone posts about how tight the upper ball joints are.. Has anyone tried a big impact? I can hold the control arm in one hand & impact the joint out with the impact wrench held in my other hand... It's not the raw torque it's the way the torque is applied.. The hammering effect of the impact makes all the differance...
I've heard a big impact works great. I just don't have one that big. With the control arms still installed on the car (and the car on sturdy jack stands) a breaker bar and pipe works fine.
|
|
|
Re: honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
[Re: 1_WILD_RT]
#660807
04/05/10 09:20 AM
04/05/10 09:20 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 183
Canada
Mofopar
member
|
member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 183
Canada
|
Not to threadjack but I'm in the middle of doing mine too. The upper BJ on the driver side came out by hand  I'm hoping there's nothing wrong there. The threads look to be fine but I'll have to have a good look at the UCA  . There is something wonky though because the drivers side strut rod is noticeably bent at the LCA end. Another weird drivers side problem I noticed is the torsion bar was really corroded I'm guessing because its so close to the headers and all the heat-cool cycling. The torsion bar is also noticeably bent. Think its ok to use like this? The right side bar is rifle straight. Also, I ordered original rubber strut rod bushings, but now after doing some homework it seems that there are two styles of original bushings? A one piece and a two-piece setup. Any one use the one piece? it looks to be too long for the application.
|
|
|
Re: honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
[Re: Mofopar]
#660808
04/05/10 09:51 AM
04/05/10 09:51 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
|
Quote:
Not to threadjack but I'm in the middle of doing mine too. The upper BJ on the driver side came out by hand I'm hoping there's nothing wrong there. The threads look to be fine but I'll have to have a good look at the UCA .
Not good news. The Upper Ball joint should be very tight. If it's loose it could be because somebody used too much heat on it when replacing it last time, stripped it by over tightening it, or other problems. If the new ball joint will not tighten you have two choices.
1. Replace the UCA.
2. Tack weld the ball joint to the UCA.
I prefer #1 but I have heard many people do # 2 and have no problems.
Quote:
There is something wonky though because the drivers side strut rod is noticeably bent at the LCA end.
More Bad news.
It should be straight. Often people put the jack in the wrong spot, bend them in accidents or take the car off road and bend them. Time for a replacement.
Quote:
Another weird drivers side problem I noticed is the torsion bar was really corroded I'm guessing because its so close to the headers and all the heat-cool cycling.
This may not be so bad.
If the rust / corrosion is surface you can clean it up but if it starts to pit you need to replace them because it can cause a stress point that can lead to fractures. After cleaning it up make sure to coat it with a very good epoxy grade paint to prevent rusting.
Quote:
The torsion bar is also noticeably bent. Think its OK to use like this? The right side bar is rifle straight.
Even more bad news. It has to be straight or it's defective. but at least you don't worry about cleaning it.
Quote:
Also, I ordered original rubber strut rod bushings, but now after doing some homework it seems that there are two styles of original bushings? A one piece and a two-piece setup. Any one use the one piece? it looks to be too long for the application.
Good news at last.
In most applications the 1 or two piece design is swappable. as for the length it will squash / compress when installed so it isn't a big problem.
Sounds like the care got hit on that side. Take car to measure/check the LCA also.
P.S. What Kind of Car?
|
|
|
Re: honestly, how hard is rebuilding front end?
[Re: IMGTX]
#660810
04/05/10 02:00 PM
04/05/10 02:00 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 183
Canada
Mofopar
member
|
member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 183
Canada
|
Quote:
Not good news. The Upper Ball joint should be very tight. If it's loose it could be because somebody used too much heat on it when replacing it last time, stripped it by over tightening it, or other problems. If the new ball joint will not tighten you have two choices.
1. Replace the UCA.
2. Tack weld the ball joint to the UCA.
I prefer #1 but I have heard many people do # 2 and have no problems.
Thanks
Quote:
More Bad news.
It should be straight. Often people put the jack in the wrong spot, bend them in accidents or take the car off road and bend them. Time for a replacement.
You don't suggest I  it straight again?
Quote:
Even more bad news. It has to be straight or it's defective. but at least you don't worry about cleaning it.
 this is getting expensinve
Quote:
In most applications the 1 or two piece design is swappable. as for the length it will squash / compress when installed so it isn't a big problem.
Finally something positive!
Quote:
Sounds like the care got hit on that side. Take car to measure/check the LCA also.
LCA's are already out to change the bushings. How can I check on a bench? (it looks OK i.e. the same as right side)
Quote:
P.S. What Kind of Car?
72 Duster I bought last year. I think you're probably right about it getting dinged, it all adds up, even my steering column misalignment.
Thanks for the help!
|
|
|
|
|
to afford a good one. 
