What are you guys using for adapting/fabricating in order to get your small blocks locked down? I was thinking of fabricating something but time and tools seem to be at a premium. Could I go out to a junk yard and cut up a k-member for its mounts and relocate them into my frame. I need to get my project moving forward again. Thanks for any input....

I was going to fabricate some mounts[with help]for my 48 ply. same deal 318, except 833od..but,, I took the easy way called chassis engineering. for 95bucks I will recieve engine mounts, frame mount and donut type cushion..had the money, not the time...had good customer help also....Chris K

I make up my own like the ones from chassis engineering
I get the mounts at the local streetrod shop nd make the rest. Ron...


http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/page4.html


I cut a piece of 2x2 or 2x3 tubing on 45* angle and weld it to the frame and use the CE motor mount brakets and mounts

Used this same type of mount on the 36 with the 318. Got them from Butch's Rod shop which is now Butch's Cool Stuff.

http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/

from your pic, you already have the engine mount and rubber insulator, measure between the ears of the metal mount, get a piece of box steel to fit between the ears, use a piece of card board to mock up the angles,,cut on the proper angle and weld it to the frame, mark and drill a hole in the piece you made and welded to the frame,run a bolt thru both pieces,,thats all you need

what year is that motor,and wats it out of ??,the exhaust manifolds look like they fit great

I have some 3in steel channel that I am going to throw in there. I guess it is only going to go in there one way, as it sits now. I wanted to get it down a little lower but the steering column is hemming that up. The motor is a '78 318 and the manifolds are off a 340 from the mid 70's. Unless manifolds for 318s are slightly different in the bend around the steering, I guess its time to burn it in...Thanks

You will have more manifold clearance if you shift the motor & trans towards the passenger side about 2". Won't matter to the car, and everything still fits through the X brace if your still using it. I think we notched the center of the front cross member to clear the crank pulleys, so we could drop the motor down a bit more. We also "clearanced (pounded it with a hammer) the firewall at the valve cover. Gene

i have the engine offset approximately 1.5 inches to the pass side. If I want to sit her any lower I think that i will have to move the engine forward along the plane of the steering arm. I guess there isnt much science to it. Also moving it forward more puts the fan into the radiator. There is always the electric fan option though...Any other options. Im going to get ready to burn it in there probably next weekend after i get my channel cut and drilled out.

So after looking at your pictures again, I remember we used a set of standard 360 exhaust manifolds that drop down from the ports. That allowed us to lower the engine and move it back. When we did that, the crank pulley almost set in the factory notch, I think we made the factory notch a bit forward and offset to the right to clear our pulleys. After we got all the mounts built, and everything notched and re-welded, my son decided he wanted headers. On top of that, he got a set of used headers, because he didn't have much money. The headers made it real tight on the passenger side frame, in fact we had to notch the side of the frame to clear the header center tubes, to change the oil filter, you had to loosen it and remove it from above the trans dipstick. The starter area was pretty crowded as well. Those headers made things very tight, everything was sweet, with clearance all around, before the headers came into play. Unfortunately, we have no pictures. Sorry. Gene