I have a '73 Charger auto on column with a lot of slop in the steering. How difficult is it to remove and replace the steering column to replace the coupling seal, shoes and cover? Is it a 2 man operation? I have a mopar orange seal kit.

Does it have that rubber coupler under hood at firewall, that maybe comes apart somehow so you won't have to drop column? I know I've seen the coupler on a 74 charger.

Looks like the shaft is solid down to the coupling body. I believe the rubber coupling is between the coupling body and steering box.

You may get away with loosening the nuts under column and removing bolts at firewall, inside car and sliding column back an inch maybe to get coupler off of gearbox stubb. But you may want to take column out completely to wrestle the pressed pin out of the end of it. (on work bench)

In 73 the rubber biscuit (rag joint) should be on the steering box and the coupler up near the firewall.

In 74 they put the rag joint near the firewall and returned the coupler to the steering box.

I suggest before you invest any time in it you check for the location of the slack.

Have somebody rock the steering wheel with the engine off and check each joint. I'll bet most of the slack is in the box or the rag joint, not the coupler.

If it is in the box they are partially adjustable.

If it is the rag joint they are expensive if you can find an original one but most people get the rubber disks from the help section at the autoparts store. Stack two of them and it will work fine.

If you want to pull the column it's not too bad.

1. Disconnect the Battery.

2. Disconnect the two to four wiring harnesses coming out of the bottom of the column.

3. Drive out the roll pin on the steering box that holds the coupler/rag joint to it. Use a large screwdriver or I use a pickle fork to pry and separate the coupler/rag joint from the box. Don't worry if it will not completely separate you really just need to break them loose.

4. Disconnect the shifter rod at the column if it is a column shift.

5. Remove the 3 bolts on the base of the column holding it to the firewall. (Not the two bolts holding the main shaft tube to the base).

6. Remove the 3 nuts holding the lower column support to the dash. (You will see a large funky looking washer and a white square bushing under the nuts.

7. It will drop and simply wiggle it out. If you haven't broke it loose from the box yet do it before you start to pull it out. If not it may cause the collapsible portion of the column to separate.

Hope it helps.

IMGTX, now you have me confused. Not sure what you mean by rag joint. The parts I am replacing are the guts of the steering shaft coupling body, mopar kit #1-K6029951. The orange seal, 2 shoes, shoe spring, steering shaft to shoe pin, dowel pin and cover. I assume the orange seal is the biscut? I have seen some that are black. The coupling body on my '73 is just above the double coupling and shaft assembly, just above the steering box as shown in the chassis service manual page 19-39. Page 19-48 shows the exploded view of the coupling body with parts mentioned above. I had the steering box replaced with a rebuilt unit last month. It took out 75% of the slop and was told I needed this kit to make it almost like new. Right now I have 3 to 4 inches of steering wheel movement(play) mostly at low speed (35 to 50) and seems like none at 60. Most of my driving will be in the around town range.

In 73 when they went to the isolated K-Frames they added a second flexible joint. Most people refer to it as the rag joint. The factory one is 4 wedge shaped metal pieces encased in rubber and looks like a rubber biscuit with 4 bolt holes in it. In 73 it should be mounted directly to the input shaft of the box and a shaft connects it to the coupler with the orange boot and shoes you have in your kit. In 74 they put the coupler on the box (like in prior years) and moved the rag joint to shaft next to the firewall.

Basically I have seen very few couplers go bad but the rubber biscuits/rag joints go bad very often. Especially in 73 models with headers where the heat is too close to them.

A picture is worth a thousand words. When I get home I'll get some pics and post them tomorrow.

What you described is what I see on mine. Now, 2 things. Yes I have headers, big tube race headers. The cap was popped off the coupler, so I would guess it is bone dry. I just bought the car in december, so I have no idea how long the coupler has been open. I haven't been able to reach down and feel the condition of the seal.

I have run into lots of the couplers with the cap popped loose and they were still good.

If you have the kit it isn't so bad to rebuild but don't be surprized if it is still OK.

I do not think you can rebuild it without removing the column.

Once you remove the column and lift the cap/seal up you will see a tiny little pin sticking into the coupler. It needs to be pressed out to disassemble the coupler. I use a pair of pliers and a nut to push it out. I place the nut on the outside and squeeze the pin into the nut using the pliers.

Check the swivel of the coupler before you install it. They can be assembled incorrectly and look good but not swivel. DAMHIK.

Check the rag joint really well. The factory used a metal shield on them to help with the heat.

If clearance is a problem you could get a 74 column. I believe it may clear better.

Well, it looks like I will pull the column this weekend and install the kit I have. Based on the info you provided, I'm keeping my fingers crossed the rag joint isn't bad. Thanks for all of your help.