Re: Help ! I am such a moron
[Re: tubtar]
#644404
03/18/10 08:58 PM
03/18/10 08:58 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 440 SW pa
goldenlancer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 440
SW pa
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devcon has been around for a long time. used it back in the 80's and repaired a v12 detroit water jacket with it . (under the cam.) as far as I know its' still running with no leaks.
N/SS
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Re: Help ! I am such a moron
[Re: b1dartsport]
#644406
03/18/10 11:32 PM
03/18/10 11:32 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,498 PA
moparacer
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,498
PA
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I have soldered water jacket holes shut on cast iron for the past 20 years. With the right liquid flux and solder it works good.
I have two water jacket holes in the intake ports on my cast iron heads soldered shut now.
Ryan had them pressure tested and they were fine.
If you use epoxy whatever you use better not loosen up once its soaked with the engine oil.
That would be my main concern.
67 Barracuda street/bracket car 11.27-119 68 Dart 502 BB 8.70s-152 414 cid SB Dragster 7.65-174
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Re: Help ! I am such a moron
[Re: B G Racing]
#644409
03/19/10 11:22 AM
03/19/10 11:22 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,019 Finland
mafo
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,019
Finland
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What s going on here, yesterday you were a genius ... don t trust the epoxy, water in your oil kill your crank in no time, don t ask...
-65 Valiant,420", all motor,2700#, dot tires, 8,42 @ 160,2
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Re: Help ! I am such a moron
[Re: mafo]
#644410
03/19/10 08:20 PM
03/19/10 08:20 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547 State College, PA
RyanJ
moparts member
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moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
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Common problem.... especially on race blocks, casting is too damn thin in that area. Usually safe to do that mod on a factory block, but not so much on race block. I dunno how many people I've had to walk through that repair on phone over the years.....
You don't need a $700 external pump to fix it... That is just an oil inlet for on block oil filter. You really should just switch to an external oil filter...... You are doing a W9 motor, you should not be using filter on side of block anyhow, you should be pumping oil into front R3 priority main oil feed.... I know, not as "clean & simple" as on block filter, but there is "clean & simple" & then the better way to do things.....
The filter thread inlet on block is 3/4" fine thread.... go to hardware store & buy a 1" UHL 3/4" fine bolt.... & you'll need to get a 1/2" NPT drill/tap, & a 3/8" NPT drill tap to do nice clean simple repair..... Enlarge the current 3/8" NPT hole in bellhousing area that was an access hole for that hole you just messed up to be machined.... it's in all SB Mopar blocks, & gets a 3/8" NPT plug normally..... well anyhow, enlarge that to 1/2" NPT to allow you room to access inside area with drill/3/8" NPT tap (might need a 3/8" NPT "extenson tap" like 4" long one is what I have.... & then just tap block internally to 3/8" & put a plug in there. So plug it there with sealer, & put sealer on 3/4" bolt & use it to plug the large center hole, don't worry about fixing hole in block & allow water to flow out into that now small oil passage that is plugged on both sides once you install bolt & the new 3/8" internal plug.....
Then drill/tap your oil pump outlet hole on side of block (lower of two holes on left side of filter boss) Put 3/8" NPT plug in upper hole just like normal, & then put an AN fitting out of the pump outlet hole, run line to your external filter boss (CV products makes nice one) & then pump oil put of filter mount & into priority oil feed @ front of block. Done..... no epoxy to worry about etc. Everything sealed up with NPT plugs & fine thread bolt with sealer. No leak, no worries & better oil system to boot VS using filter on block deal.
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Re: Help ! I am such a moron
[Re: emarine01]
#644412
03/19/10 10:02 PM
03/19/10 10:02 PM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,082 St. Paul , Mn.
tubtar
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,082
St. Paul , Mn.
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Thank you Ryan ........... p.m.'ing you was next on list of things to do. It is funny , I was trying to wrap my brain around possible fixes and was going to look at plunging in the 3/4" hole with an end mill to create a seat , then use a threaded sleeve to seal it off and drill from the back of the block to restore the oil path. But I am both excited and relieved to hear your fix. It sounds too easy .......... which puts it within my range of skills.
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Re: Help ! I am such a moron
[Re: tubtar]
#644413
03/19/10 11:49 PM
03/19/10 11:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547 State College, PA
RyanJ
moparts member
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moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
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If you can use a drill & a tap, you can fix it LOL God I love MP race blocks... I had one late last year I built for guy in FL. It did not get ran/dynoed here, just primed it on stand, crated it & shipped out....Primed fine, no problems with block..... I had not modified that area in any way, so was just right as machined from MP.... He put in his Dragster & fired it & found water mixing W/ oil almost immediately. He calls me & says what should I look for? I knew exactly where to look... told him pull filter & plate off & look close in that machined corner where the 2 drill bits meet & bet he finds a blown through pin hole there, sure enough, that's what it was. He did the NPT trick with little extra precaution since motor was already together, like shoving bearing grease up the oil passages to prevent shavings from getting where should'nt & works fine to this day. The R3 in my SuperBee I was not so lucky, I found motor oil pouring out my freeze plug holes when priming it on stand with center feed water lines unhooked.... That one had vertical oil passage for 1/8" pressure gauge sender machined @ angle right into water jacket.... had to completely tear that one back down to bare block to fix it. It was 20 minutes from putting on dyno for fire up when found problem............ fun fun.
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Re: Help ! I am such a moron
[Re: RyanJ]
#644414
03/20/10 10:25 AM
03/20/10 10:25 AM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776 Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Quote:
If you can use a drill & a tap, you can fix it LOL
God I love MP race blocks...
I had one late last year I built for guy in FL. It did not get ran/dynoed here, just primed it on stand, crated it & shipped out....Primed fine, no problems with block..... I had not modified that area in any way, so was just right as machined from MP.... He put in his Dragster & fired it & found water mixing W/ oil almost immediately. He calls me & says what should I look for? I knew exactly where to look... told him pull filter & plate off & look close in that machined corner where the 2 drill bits meet & bet he finds a blown through pin hole there, sure enough, that's what it was. He did the NPT trick with little extra precaution since motor was already together, like shoving bearing grease up the oil passages to prevent shavings from getting where should'nt & works fine to this day.
The R3 in my SuperBee I was not so lucky, I found motor oil pouring out my freeze plug holes when priming it on stand with center feed water lines unhooked.... That one had vertical oil passage for 1/8" pressure gauge sender machined @ angle right into water jacket.... had to completely tear that one back down to bare block to fix it. It was 20 minutes from putting on dyno for fire up when found problem............ fun fun.
So how much time does it take to test the block for leaks. I mean with all the quality R3 being released by Mopar I think I will be getting you to do mine. Matt
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