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Re: No Brakes
[Re: waspnest69]
#639491
03/14/10 10:27 AM
03/14/10 10:27 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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If you are positive you have no leaks ( 3 bottles of brake fluid??? ), check to make sure the brake pedal is returning all the way to its stop and that you have some free play between the master cyl cup and push rod. Assume you adjusted the rear brakes properly? You could also have a problem with the residual pressure check valve located in the master. Not likely though. Got the brake lines hooked up to the master properly - larger resevoir = front to disc.
Fastest 300
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Re: No Brakes
[Re: Crizila]
#639492
03/14/10 10:42 AM
03/14/10 10:42 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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bench (on the car) bleed the M/C again then cut the prob in half by unhooking the drum brake line at the M/C and capping the M/C with a male brass inverted flare plug from your parts house & bleed out the front calipers until you get a firm pedal then uncap/hookup the rear drums and take care of them. right now the air could be anywhere (or in several places) and you want to narrow that down. Actually on a problem situation like this I'd get 2 brass plugs (your M/C may use 2 different size plugs) and cap the M/C & if the M/C is good (and bled) the pedal will be rock hard w virtually no travel then hookup either half & bleed it out (I prefer the discs 1st) then the rears. You may have a prop valve w the pin that needs to be pulled out to get em to bleed
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: No Brakes
[Re: RapidRobert]
#639493
03/14/10 11:17 AM
03/14/10 11:17 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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For bleeding purposes, you don't have to mess with the pin on the porportioning valve unless you are pressure bleeding through the master resevoir - and you are not. From the factory your car came with a porportioning valve and a residual check valve - latter located in the master. Make sure the master you purchased is the correct one for your car and it has this residual check valve in it.
Fastest 300
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Re: No Brakes
[Re: RapidRobert]
#639494
03/14/10 05:37 PM
03/14/10 05:37 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
Lefty
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
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Quote:
bench (on the car) bleed the M/C again then cut the prob in half by unhooking the drum brake line at the M/C and capping the M/C with a male brass inverted flare plug from your parts house & bleed out the front calipers until you get a firm pedal then uncap/hookup the rear drums and take care of them. right now the air could be anywhere (or in several places) and you want to narrow that down. Actually on a problem situation like this I'd get 2 brass plugs (your M/C may use 2 different size plugs) and cap the M/C & if the M/C is good (and bled) the pedal will be rock hard w virtually no travel then hookup either half & bleed it out (I prefer the discs 1st) then the rears. You may have a prop valve w the pin that needs to be pulled out to get em to bleed
I made up 2 "loop-back" brake lines that come out of the master cylinder and loop back up into the bowls they came from and are under 1/4" of brake fluid. Keep pumping the brake pedal until there are zero tiny bubbles in the MC bowls. It can take lots of pumps of the brake pedal, but it's necessary to get every bit of air out of the MC before trying to bleed the brake calipers or wheel cylinders.
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