Note: I'm in college, and am looking for the cheapest possible solution. Thanks!

Something in the front end is messed up, and I'm fairly sure it has something to do with the 4wd. It makes a noise that gets louder with speed and is somewhat dependent on the degree the steering wheel is turned (makes almost no noise when turned a fraction left, and tons of noise everywhere else) I can also feel its effect through the steering wheel (it vibrates a little in relation to the noise.) This all happens while driving around in 2wd.

What I want to do is disconnect the 4wd completely (make the truck permanently 2wd, for all intents and purposes.) I was wondering how to best do this, without leaving anything under there that is going to fall apart/leak or otherwise be destructive.

Has anyone else done this before? What tool are needed? How do you disconnect the 1/2 shafts and remove them completely? Is that all I need to do?

Any help is very much appreciated!
Thank you!

Might be a wheel bearing or CV joint also. Is there any way you can jack up the front end and turn the wheels by hand to check for noise or slop?

I had similar noise years ago in a Plymouth Trail Duster far from home. I limped in to the next town and dropped it a Dodge dealer. They diagnosed it as a 4wd problem. I didn't trust them and told them to pull the axles and disconnect it. Weeks later I travelled hundreds of miles to pick it up. Paid for it and it made the same noise. I had to leave it again to get the new wheel bearing.

I drove home weeks later with a 2wd Trail duster with a new wheel bearing and the guts of the front differential in a dirty box. I wound up buying a complete used axle a year or so later to get the 4wd back.

I can't jack it up were it is to check it out, but need to limp it over to a friend's house. Thanks for mentioning it though. I'll check it out.

Do you know how much they had to take out to disable/remove the 4wd?

X2 on the wheel bearing.

Kevin

if you had the time i would try this just remove the cv shafts on each side and leave the front center section (rearend) and take it for a lil drive the front center section dont care if its actually connect to the wheels or not can un do one side at time if you want will let you know if its THAT cv shaft or wheel bearing normally a cv shaft will make poping sound if you turn the wheel all the way and put a slight load on it (like backing into a parking spot) hope this helps
ralph

If it's a front wheel bearing (which it kinda sounds like) taking out the parts that make it 4wd aren't gonna make the noise go away.

It needs to be diagnosed for what the actual problem is.

It sounds like a wheel bearing.

no it wont make the problem go away if its a wheel bearing but by taking them out (one at a time and lil drive) he will know for sure if its a cv joint or a wheel bearing and not cost him a dime just his time cause its gonna be one or the other

Thank you very much for all the help guys. I have a few more questions:

How hard is it to change the wheel bearing? Are there any special tools needed?

And how hard is it to take off the cv shafts? Are there any special tools needed for this? One end of the shaft is connected to the wheel hub, whats the other end connected to? How does each end come off, and is there anything on the other end I need to worry about falling apart while driving?

Is there a step by step guide for changing the wheel bearing or removing the shafts?

Thanks again!

Although I do not know what the front end looks like , if it has CV joints like a front wheel drive car, I would not remove them and test. Unless it uses something else to hold it in place the CV joint and nut holds the bearing and hub in place. Removing it and driving could be dangerous.

Dont know if yours is AWD or not, but my daughters 2001 is AWD/4WD and it wont drive if you take out the front drive shaft. Just a little info if you are planning on trying to remove the front drive shaft if that is the problem.

It may well be a bearing causing the racket. And if you do pull the half shafts, don't plan on going far at all with out a, or another stub shaft back in knuckle and big nut drawn tight. The bearing will most likely work it's way apart otherwise.