Here it is in the car for the car show:

Dust'a:

Graph of best pulls between rpm intake and SV:

So, are you driving it to work?

Yes!!
Video:
http://yfrog.us/5ecarcraft408392z

John shooting the engine up close and personal!!
http://yfrog.us/1scarcraft408397z

Any chance of a few 1/4 mile passes?

Thanks for sharing the details and results.

This thread is useless without track times. LOL...It would be nice if you have the oppurtunity though.

If it made more power with the Air Gap why do you have the Victor on it in the car, just for Show?

Great combo, Brian!!

That very close to the 500hp stroker small block recipie I use for Mopar and Ford Small blocks for combos that want a strong 'big block' feeling torque curve in their cars that don't neccesarily care so much about winding them up too tight. One Key with hydraulic flat tappets is getting around 250 cfm at .400, since most hydraulics peak under .550 lift going .050 down from there I'm looking to get 265-280 at .500, this kind of flow gives you a big fat torque curve right in the middle of the powerband with a very streetable cam profile. Mopars want about 8-10 degrees more at .050 (typically 242-246 on the intake) for the same type of curve and Fords tend to like a single plane like the Vic Jr over the RPM type big dual plane. On your combo looking a the torque curves you can see the SVic is way overkill, it's lazy lazy until you get the piston speed WAY UP...I'd be real interested to se what the M1 (which is essentially a slightly updated strip dominator) would do...those runners go about 285 which might be perfect and worth enough up top over the RPM above 4000 (the equal-point cross-over is right around 4800 at 340 inches) or so to make a nice trade.

One thing I try to express is the with a 4" arm you're letting the piston speed do the work, you don't neccesarily want or need to wind them up so high, and truth be known a 370-ish smallblock motor can make the same HP as a 400+ incher with about 500 more RPM....actually the 370 is more efficient in terms of HP production because once you get over the torque peak the rings are acting like a brake (in terms of frictional hp loss per each 100 rpm of RPM gain). Strokers make there best moves in the big fat middle, that's the main reason automatic cars (with typically wider gear spreads) ET better with Strokers, they win in the Torque per Cube category, not so much the RPM dependant HP/cube dept.

did you chart the head flow? I'm wanting to a set of those X's.

I think the next potential big leap with the Magnum style stud rocker head would be to rotate the intake valve up and the exhaust down (while staying on the bore center) combined with a compact figure 8 combustion chamber and a 2.08" intake valve, very similar to the TFS twisted wedge. This could get rid of the pushrod pinch and shorten both runner lengths.....I think such a design could flow 280 at .450 and ~305-310 @ .500 without too much difficulty....and that equates to easy 600hp potential. With the right offset on the intake and a 1.73 (BBC/cleveland ford ratio) rocker ratio the sky is the limit....I think it could be made affordable too.

Head flow:
Some guys were asking me what the RHS heads we sell flow so here are the #'s....
Lift Int. Ex.
100 69 58
200 141 119
300 197 161
400 241 184
500 267 193
550 271 195
600 int. port goes turbulent

What that means is even though it goes turbulent, with an intake on it pulled to .600 lift so lifting the valve to .600 will still net you more HP.

This test used a 4.030 bore and test pressure of 28".
Ex. side I used a 1 3/4 pipe and as you can see, it's damn good OOTB!

Thank you for your time. I really learned alot.

Welcome!
I just got the engine out and will be putting back on the dyno for a few more tests.
Then we're pulling the cam and top end off for a "part 2" to the story.
I should add that we'll be porting a set of eddy heads, roller cam and after some carb testing we'll be going with EFI; plus we plan to try F&B's 3-2BBL injection setup!
Should be alot of fun!!