Re: 69 Charger gauge problems...UPDATE
[Re: RapidRobert]
#599105
02/14/10 12:29 AM
02/14/10 12:29 AM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,327 Glendale, AZ
69L78Nova
OP
Banned. Forever.
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OP
Banned. Forever.
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,327
Glendale, AZ
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Well, Im still at it. I bought a new sending unit. All the grounds are good, and the gauge still doesnt read right. I bypassed the wire from the tank, and temporarily ran a new wire from the sending unit up to the back of the cluster. Im guessing the gauge is bad then? Its weird how it shoots to full when the sending unit wire is grounded though.
1969 Nova 454/M21/3.31 Mild mid-11 second weekend cruiser
1994 F150 XLT Super Cab 2WD 5.0/4R70W/3.55 (Daily driver)
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Re: 69 Charger gauge problems...UPDATE
[Re: stumpy]
#599109
02/14/10 12:57 AM
02/14/10 12:57 AM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,327 Glendale, AZ
69L78Nova
OP
Banned. Forever.
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OP
Banned. Forever.
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,327
Glendale, AZ
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The sending unit is brand new. I checked the movement of the float when I put it in. The old sending unit didnt read any differently
1969 Nova 454/M21/3.31 Mild mid-11 second weekend cruiser
1994 F150 XLT Super Cab 2WD 5.0/4R70W/3.55 (Daily driver)
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Re: 69 Charger gauge problems...UPDATE
[Re: stumpy]
#599112
02/15/10 07:29 PM
02/15/10 07:29 PM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,327 Glendale, AZ
69L78Nova
OP
Banned. Forever.
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OP
Banned. Forever.
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,327
Glendale, AZ
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I took the sending unit out and working from the front seat of the car, I tapped into the bulkhead behind the drivers side kick panel. When the arm is moved to full, the gauge moves to full. The gauge moves is relation to the sending unit arm until it hits 1/2 tank, then it drops down to empty. I went ahead and built the 5VDC solid state voltage regulator for the cluster, and tested the gas gauge with 2 AA batteries. With one battery, the gauge goes to 1/4, with 2, it goes to full. Since the gauges operate off of a 5V signal, and two AA batteries making 3V together, leads me to believe the gauge is bad. Does everyone agree with that? I checked the wire again from the 5-pin plug on the back of the cluster all the way back to the sending unit with a DVOM...the wire is fine. The sending unit and the cluster also have good grounds. So, I guess I have to try and find a gas gauge now, which should be tons of fun. Or does anybody know of anyone that rebuilds/repairs Mopar gauges?
1969 Nova 454/M21/3.31 Mild mid-11 second weekend cruiser
1994 F150 XLT Super Cab 2WD 5.0/4R70W/3.55 (Daily driver)
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Re: 69 Charger gauge problems...UPDATE
[Re: 69L78Nova]
#599113
02/15/10 10:21 PM
02/15/10 10:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001 Coram, NY
Pool Fixer
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
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My personal feeling is that if they move at all, they are good.... and you can adjust the fuel, oil press, and temp gauges. they sense resistance to ground. there are set value resistors you can buy from radio shack very cheap. ground each gauge with a wire that is split by these resistors and then adjust the gauges to read properly.
Have you removed, cleaned and disassembled your gauge cluster? before giving my 68 charger gauges a makeover, I had some intermittent issues. I found that just by removing the cluster, taking apart, cleaning, and putting it all back together ended the problems. while they are out, you can make up your rig to test and adjust. very easy to do. A voltage limiter needs to be plugged into the circuit board. Attach a 12v power source to the circuit board pin that supplies power to the board. Ground the cluster housing.
Go to Radio Shack and buy these resistors. 271-1101 10 ohm 271-1103 23 ohm 271-1109 150 ohm
Just attach a short piece of wire with a small alligator clip on each end to a single 10 ohm and 23 ohm resistor Take two 150 ohm resistors and put them side by side and then attach the wires with clips.
The jumper wires are so cheap you could make three of each and have all your gauges testing at the same time.
The LOW position is 73 ohms The MIDDLE position is 23 ohms The HIGH position is 10 ohms
Temperature gauge The L position should read 120* on the dial The M position should read 170*~180* on the dial. The H position should read 250* on the dial.
Oil gauge The L position should read 0 psi on the dial. The M position should read about 30 psi on the dial The H position should read 80 psi on the dial
Fuel gauge The L position should read empty on the dial The M position should read just under 1/2 on the dial The H position should read full on the dial
look at the attachment..on the back of the gauges are two little round "windows" inside each is a 'wheel' that you can turn to adjust the sweep of the gauge.
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Re: 69 Charger gauge problems...UPDATE
[Re: Pool Fixer]
#599114
02/16/10 03:14 AM
02/16/10 03:14 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Excellent info and If that'd make the problem gas tank sending units read correctly that would sure solve alot of peoples issues with them.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 69 Charger gauge problems...UPDATE
[Re: Pool Fixer]
#599117
02/17/10 11:18 AM
02/17/10 11:18 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Excellent procedure. here's the problem: with some of the aftermarket gas tank sending units haveing different ohms than oe will adj the gauge w the resistor then give a incorrect reading or would it be better just on these problem senders to mock it up w no resistor directly back to the tank then adj the gas gauge or will the resistor/adjustment give an accurate reading even w the sending unit ohms slightly off? I dont care so much about the F side accuracy but when it hits E I want about 5 miles of traveling left in the tank.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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