I dropped off my block at chubby place one month ago and picked it up late this evening. He didn't know anything about aluminum main caps on a mopar (they where used off my old combo) butt I talked him into doing it anyway. Now I get home with it and the base of all the main caps still have the factory machine marks they had when I dropped them off along with the same signs of cap walk they had at that time. I also had the block bored .040 with plates (studs) and deck corrected to zero. This cost me $700 today and I have no way to check his machine work. What are the chances you can install used main caps on a Mopar and not do anything to the mating surface?

It is not likely that the caps would work with out line boring first then line honing.Most of the blocks we have reclamed the al caps on require cutting the caps quite alot so the main bore will be round.You also need to make sure the #3 thrust surfaces are square.

I think you should take the block back to that shop!!! thares no way that you can just bolt used caps on another block, its a verry slim chance it would work
I install all sorts of main cap stuff on brand X blocks and you usually atleast have to hone the mains back to spec, but if he never cut them then he must be trying to cut corners on you

I would make them atleast double check while you watch and look for your self on that bore gauge to make shure its in spec

I hope thay didnt cut anny more corners on you, I would double check everything thay did.

I think you are saying that the block still shows signs of cap walk? I believe that is just the way it is going to be. I don't know of anyone who remachines the block when installing new caps. That area on the block would be very difficult to remachine.

I think the process is to cut down the main caps a small amount and then line bore and then line hone. The main cap surface in the block isn't usually cut.

You got billed for it right? I would take the block back, ask if it was done and have them check it while your standing there. Explain why you think it's not correct. If it was not done ask for your money back and load it up. Aluminum caps are done all the time.

No not the block it is a different block I am saying the main caps still have the same machine marks they had when I dropped them off along with the signs of cap walk that was original to the caps. YES I WAS BILLED AND YES IM PISSED I will get pics tomorrow of the main caps and the block. I don't know whay else to say I'm just pissed!!

id you talk to the shop about it yet or you just got PO'd? I'd talk to "the horse" before you get all heated.

O.K. Ive cooled alittle scince last night, is there a way I can check the straightness at home? The shops not open today and I would like to have my guns loaded when I show back up at the shop.

Staight is only 1 of the issues here. The others are alignment and size. Torque the caps in place and feel the parting lines for any misalignment. Your fingernail should not be able to "catch" anything in either direction at the parting line. Then with the caps still torqued measure each bore in 6 spots with an inside mic. The spots that I measure are top-bottom, 1" above,and 1" below parting line on the front edge of the bore, repeat on the back edge of the bore. Most bearing catalogues list the housing bore size with the bearing listing. P.S. always double check an inside mic reading with an (known good) outside mic. Also don't even bother to try any of this with a very near caliper (you need mic's) as they do not have the accuracy for this operation.

Randy

My fingernail catches on two of the mains on one side heres some pics if I can get them to load this time.

Another.

It doesn look like anything was done in them from those pics. If the caps were re-used the mating surface should have fresh cutting marks and that doesnt. Catching a nail isnt always a valid test... I deburr the edges of the cap and block very slightly so the parting line "feels" uneven and will catch a nail. Measure it properly and see what the dimensions look like.