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Rebuilt 340
#592615
01/24/10 11:57 AM
01/24/10 11:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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70duster340
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The rebuilder said that I should at least manually turn the engine over every month or so. Since it's on a makeshift stand awaiting installation into the Duster, and the weather has not been cooperating lately, is there some way that I can safely store it and not have to monthly turn the engine over? It's a 71 340, bored .030 over, with Eddy heads and SRP flat top pistons, with an advised CR of 9.9 to 1. I have it currently stored in an engine bag. Thanks much for any suggestions! 
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: 70duster340]
#592618
01/24/10 12:24 PM
01/24/10 12:24 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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I'm assuming you have the rocker shafts unbolted to take the load off of the springs? An option would be to bag it w the late Billy Mays's "space bags" www.spacebags.com then you draw all the air out w a vacuuum cleaner nozzle and I'd add some bags of dessicant to absorb the remaining (or most of it) moisture. then it'd be like the inside of the pyramids and wouldn't need to be rotated occaisonally and on that note I'd spray the cyl walls liberally w something thick & then imnho it wouldn't need to be turned over
Last edited by RapidRobert; 01/24/10 12:26 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: RapidRobert]
#592619
01/24/10 12:37 PM
01/24/10 12:37 PM
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70duster340
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Nope, didn't unbolt the rocker shafts. Didn't even consider that, Robert! Would fogging the cylinders like you do on a marine engine work? Do those space bags come that large? I had a very difficult time just getting the engine bag closed over the assembled engine. Also, where do you get those dessicant bags? 
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: 70duster340]
#592620
01/24/10 01:55 PM
01/24/10 01:55 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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I would think that he would have coated everything well since I am assuming that he was aware that it was going into long term storage for an extended period of time. I'm not thinking that turning the eng over is going to do much as far as keeping things coated(ex the cyls which are critical) but I would for sure loosen the center rocker shaft bolt 1/4 turn then the next one to the right 1/4 turn then the one on the left side of the center bolt 1/4 turn then the far right one 1/4 turn then the far left one 1/4 turn & repeat until all the pressure if off of all of them. Not sure if space bags are available that large and who has the dessicant bags but they (the dessicant pkgs) are available somewhere. I dont have the last word on storing engines/keeping them from rusting but k.i.s.s. I think I'd oil the cyls, seal the bag w some dessicant bags inside. I do know it's the temp changes that drop the part below the dew point is when moisture condenses and sealing the bag does trap the current amt of moisture that's inside there but that's a lesser evil that it open. I sure dont have the last word on this just thinking out loud here. If he coated EVERY surface I'd feel better.
Last edited by RapidRobert; 01/24/10 02:30 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: RapidRobert]
#592621
01/24/10 02:05 PM
01/24/10 02:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
70duster340
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Well Robert, let me give you some history here. The builder is a GM rebuilder, but his son is a friend and set this up. The rebuilder has done one other 340, as a restoration project. Mine had new pistons and rings, new Eddy heads, a HV oil pump, the block hot tanked and bored .030 over, and the rotating assembly balanced. I guess maybe I neglected to advise him that the engine would not be reinstalled immediately, until the day I picked it up. He seemed very worried about the engine needing turned over at least 180 degrees at least monthly. So, my idea was to store it in an engine bag, and seal it up. I never even considered relieving the spring pressure, so I am very glad that I posted here and you replied.
So, the rockers and shafts don't have to be totally removed? Would fogging the cylinders be a viable option? He did run the engine when I got there to show me how well it sounded, so any coating he may have added would most likely me removed now, anyway.
Thanks again very much!!!
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: 70duster340]
#592622
01/24/10 02:16 PM
01/24/10 02:16 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Oh OK now I understand, he wanted you to rotate it to oil the cyls because he fired it up to break it in that leaves the cyls pretty much uncoated. I knew I was missing something as I'm sure he's competent (other than the fact of him being a gm type of guy  ). Not familiar w the Marine fogging but anyway you can adequately coat the walls with something fairly thick that will stay put then it doesn't need to be turned over. Yes undo the rockers until all valves are close d & can just let the rocker arm assys lay there loose. I'm glad I could help, got a couple of hours before the AFC football game starts  EDIT Hearing gm started my blood to boil so I'm gonna test him here, did he drain the oil/filter after he broke it in 
Last edited by RapidRobert; 01/24/10 02:19 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: RapidRobert]
#592626
01/24/10 03:01 PM
01/24/10 03:01 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,012
indiana
mcmopars
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indiana
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Quote:
Oh OK now I understand, he wanted you to rotate it to oil the cyls because he fired it up to break it in that leaves the cyls pretty much uncoated. I knew I was missing something as I'm sure he's competent (other than the fact of him being a gm type of guy ). Not familiar w the Marine fogging but anyway you can adequately coat the walls with something fairly thick that will stay put then it doesn't need to be turned over. Yes undo the rockers until all valves are close d & can just let the rocker arm assys lay there loose. I'm glad I could help, got a couple of hours before the AFC football game starts EDIT Hearing gm started my blood to boil so I'm gonna test him here, did he drain the oil/filter after he broke it in
so what about your car that sits over the winter ?most just change the oil and call it good for 4-5 months,or am i missing something ?
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: mcmopars]
#592627
01/24/10 03:11 PM
01/24/10 03:11 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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I'm checking that he changed the oil/filter after the 30 minute breakin. With a gm guy you cant assume anything
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: 70duster340]
#592632
01/24/10 06:41 PM
01/24/10 06:41 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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alot of good choices for oil/additives. Brad Penn oil gets good reports & I think has enough zinc as is and there's hughes' moly breakin lube to pour into your choice of oil and several good combinations. Check the archives & see if any of the prior posts are there that have a ton of good info. Not sure on the weight. I gotta ask with changing the breakin oil being std procedure on a new rebuild breakin & him not doing that is what breakin procedure DID he use. Hopefully 2500 rpm for 20-30 minutes w inner springs removed & I'm a believer in goosing the throttle many times during that time.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: RapidRobert]
#592633
01/24/10 09:37 PM
01/24/10 09:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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70duster340
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Unfortunately I wasn't there when he did the break-in run. I guess all I have is his word on that. I had purchased the oil and filter along with the break-in oil additive, so maybe that's why he didn't change the oil after the break-in run. According to him, when the machining was all done, the tolerances were much like a racing engine, which may account for the oil pressure (80 lbs. at idle). This was with the oil cold. Do I need to use a multi-viscosity oil, or just a single weight oil? I live near Summit Racing, so getting my hands on some zinc additive isn't a problem. Also, when installed, the engine will have a dual filter remote oil filter, mounted on the passenger side inner fender. Thanks again for all the tips!!! 
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: 70duster340]
#592634
01/24/10 09:53 PM
01/24/10 09:53 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Alright hopefully he did it right. I'd think maybe the clear oil was what persuaded him to not change it and the last one I did after breakin man it was dark but I used a ton of black moly paste on the lobes. My knowledge is bad on oil but I think I'd be inclined to go w a straight wt but someone here more knowledgeable may recommend otherwise
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: RapidRobert]
#592635
01/24/10 10:33 PM
01/24/10 10:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
70duster340
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There was a friend of his there who advised that he worked in the oil industry for his career. He advised a straight weight oil (30W), with a good zinc additive. It did seem to run well when I was there, but he did have some difficulty getting it to idle. He made some adjustments to the carb, and it settled right down and idled well. Now you have me concerned that the oil should have been much darker? 
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: RapidRobert]
#592637
01/24/10 10:53 PM
01/24/10 10:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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70duster340
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Well, I can only hope that my cam also survived. He had several other engines there that he was about to work on, but all were GM engines. He builds racing engines for his sons and friends, so I am hoping that he used the same degree of detail on my engine that he uses for them. I guess that only time will tell.
I can say that, while it was on the run stand, it never shook at all, but idled and ran very smoothly. I'm sure that part of this was the fact that the run stand and the mounts were all metal, but even so, if it were not running well, the stand still would have shaken at least a bit. It was also on casters so he could move it around. It was very steady during the run, which did last about 10 minutes. He assured me that he had already performed the cam break-in run before I was present for the other run.
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: RapidRobert]
#592639
01/25/10 11:00 AM
01/25/10 11:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
70duster340
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I hope that your concerns (and now mine) are unfounded, but all I can go on is his word on this. About the filter. Since I am going to hook up the dual remote filter when the engine is reinstalled, do I need to install a filter? Should I just use one of the 2 filters I have already purchased to use on the dual remote filters? I apologize, but I just want to do this correctly, since I have a lot of $$$ tied up in this. 
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: 70duster340]
#592642
01/26/10 09:53 PM
01/26/10 09:53 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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You have the 90 deg adapter plate on there now as he used that during break it in? When up/running you are going to remove it & use the concave chrome iirc adapter that has 2 fittings that run 2 hoses out to your (dual fitting) remote setup? Is that correct? I'd take a small plastic grocery bag and tie it over where the filter goes on the 90 deg adapter to cap it. you could screw on one of the filters lightly to cap it also. Holler back.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Rebuilt 340
[Re: 70duster340]
#592646
01/27/10 10:37 PM
01/27/10 10:37 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Dont know if you can still get em new but I'd put an ad in the SB parts wanted as it would be a fairly common item. Get the felpro round perimeter gasket(dont kknow the part #) as it is thicker & seals better.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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help please!!! 
