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50 plymouth #581731
01/13/10 11:21 PM
01/13/10 11:21 PM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,565
tennessee
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pushbutton Offline OP
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Joined: Nov 2008
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tennessee
Need imfo on which 8 3/4" rear end to install in a 50 Plymouth. Best fit with the least amount of mods. Looking to get better hwy. gearing.

Re: 50 plymouth [Re: pushbutton] #581732
01/14/10 04:57 PM
01/14/10 04:57 PM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,565
tennessee
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Re: 50 plymouth [Re: pushbutton] #581733
01/14/10 07:01 PM
01/14/10 07:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
RodStRace Offline
I Live Here
RodStRace  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
Gearing as always depends on the following things:
Engine RPM range and torque curve
Expected speeds
transmission ratios
Rear wheel height
Old cars and trucks had 3.5-4.3 ratios, and were not expected to go 65 MPH all day long.
More reasonable ratios are 3.0-3.5, depending on other factors listed. There are online calculators to figure this stuff out.
Any more modern rear will have to have the spring perches cut off and the old axle's or new perches welded on. Yours should be ~2" wide and modern stuff is 2.5". The U bolts won't align properly unless the plate, spring and the perch are all the same size. Many have used late 60s B body axles (early have the bad axles you have now), late 70s full size, and I 've heard later model (no year range) Jeep Cherokees with discs are also good. Look for a width that is close to yours. If you have the wheels and tires you plan on running, mount them up and see if they need a little room in or out, or are okay. You will have to set the pinion angle when welding on the new perches, which is a whole 'nother arguement. Do a search on that.

Re: 50 plymouth [Re: RodStRace] #581734
01/14/10 08:29 PM
01/14/10 08:29 PM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,565
tennessee
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Thanks for the imfo. It's not my car,I was trying to help a friend out. I think he plans to leave it pretty much stock,just trying to get more highway friendly gearing.

Re: 50 plymouth [Re: pushbutton] #581735
01/14/10 08:53 PM
01/14/10 08:53 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
RodStRace Offline
I Live Here
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
some of the other things to consider are brakes, bolt pattern and driveshaft. a Ford 8 inch will work too.

Re: 50 plymouth [Re: RodStRace] #581736
01/15/10 12:42 PM
01/15/10 12:42 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,722
Chicagoland
Cooter Offline
top fuel
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,722
Chicagoland
Quote:

Many have used late 60s B body axles (early have the bad axles you have now), late 70s full size, and I 've heard later model (no year range) Jeep Cherokees with discs are also good.




No Cherokees came with disc rear brakes. you would need a Grand Cherokee rear end from '93-98, and preferably a Dana 44, as the D35 is pretty weak. Of course, if you aren't going too hard on it, the D35 will live, and is dirt cheap, to boot. You would still need to take off a ton of bracketry in either case before you added your perches, as the Grand Cherokee is coil sprung in the back. The later Grands used a 5 on 5" bolt pattern, which wouldn't match your existing setup. The '93-98 GC is about 60 1/2", WMS to WMS.

Another option is to use an 8.8 from a '95-01, (IIRC) Ford Exploer. 31 spline axles, disc brakes, and 3.21, 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10 gears are all available, with and without factory limited slips. the Exploder 8.8 is about 59 1/2" wide.


Whenever I am online I am totally naked. (Under my clothes)
Re: 50 plymouth [Re: Cooter] #581737
01/17/10 11:43 PM
01/17/10 11:43 PM
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11
Sandy, Utah
Robert R Offline
member
Robert R  Offline
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11
Sandy, Utah
My 50 is getting a Ford 8.8 for an Exploder. It fit perfectly and has the 3.73 ratio, with posi (or whatever Ford calls it)


Currently building a 1950 Plym Suburban '70 340/A518 combo 1965 Dodge Dart Driver 1962 Jeep FC-170 1956 Nash Metropolitan






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