Re: e body dash/parking light question
[Re: 440challenger]
#572556
01/04/10 08:52 PM
01/04/10 08:52 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 87
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BigDawg72
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I was having a problem with the front parking lights on my 72 Challenger. It was a grounding issue with the light housings. All I had to do was sand the screw holes/contact surface a little and viola... front parking lights!
EDIY - My front turn signals were working, just not the parking lights. Grounding fixed it.
Last edited by BigDawg72; 01/04/10 08:59 PM.
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Re: e body dash/parking light question
[Re: BigDawg72]
#572557
01/04/10 09:47 PM
01/04/10 09:47 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,503
NJ
440challenger
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Well great info guys unfortunately i still havent fixed any of it. I added the ground strap to the column. I also checked to see if the screw was in the pod and it was. I added an additional ground wire just to be safe. My ground up front from the battery to the radiator support is good. I have only one ground in the trunk and it is also good.I cleaned and wd 40'ed the bulkhead connections and also the dash to rear light harness plug. So The only lights i have working are the brake lights ,headlights,and turnsignals. No side parking lights or rear running lights. No dash lights either  I assembled the complete dash out of the car so im pretty sure all the connections are "conencted". My fuel gauge,amp gauge,etc are working properly as well as the "brake light"
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Re: e body dash/parking light question
[Re: 440challenger]
#572558
01/04/10 10:22 PM
01/04/10 10:22 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 356
NE
moparpoolman
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enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 356
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I had problems like this. As for your horn, you need to narrow down whether it's in the column or not, unplug the steering column conector and with a test light look for or if you know which one the horn is test it, if you find the right one the horn will blow when your test light lights up. If not while testing listen to see if you can hear the horn relay click. if no click try changing relay. if horn sounds or relay is clicking it's in the column and need to play with the button, sometimes the little wheel that makes contact.
As for your Dash lights, Double check bulbs, I've had all bad ones before. Play with dimmer back an forth a bunch of times, I've had a bunch of cars and all of them needed to be played with to get the dash lights to work.
Parking lights, make sure all wires are connected and not broken, I've had a broken wire going to a driver sidemarker light which gave me the same problem. , Poolman
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Re: e body dash/parking light question
[Re: buildanother]
#572560
01/04/10 10:49 PM
01/04/10 10:49 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,503
NJ
440challenger
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master
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OP
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,503
NJ
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Quote:
Sounds like, for whatever reason, there is no power going to headlight switch for regular lighting. I believe there should be 2 12v hot wires going to switch. One heavy gauge for headlamps only, which you have, and a smaller gauge wire coming straight from fuse box. The fact that there is no power getting to the inst fuse when headlight switch is on, kindof seems to show that. Unless the 73 is different from the past.  
Would you know where the smaller wire would go on the fuse block? And where does the smaller wire come from? The switch itself?
The only spots open on my fuse block are the "batt" and "acc" on the bottom and then in the very top left looks to be a spot for a spade connector ,not positive though.
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Re: e body dash/parking light question
[Re: 440challenger]
#572561
01/05/10 12:06 AM
01/05/10 12:06 AM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 87
Bama
BigDawg72
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I went through a lot of this when I was installing different switches from stock in my new dash. I checked for voltage at the terminals on the headlight and dash dimmer switch with the connector only plugged about 3/4 in when I was trying to figure out the wiring for my new (cough cough) Chevy billet headlight switch (I wanted 1 switch for everything instead of 2). IIRC there is only 1 large wire (pink I think) that goes to the headlight switch. It was pretty easy to trace the wires by checking voltage on all the terminals then moving the switch to park and checking voltage again etc...
Your issue with the front parking lights is almost exactly like what I mentioned in my post above. The housing itself has to be grounded if it's the same as my 72 (only two hot wires going to light connector, 1 for park, 1 for turn signal). I used a test light and actually checked the bulb contacts in the socket to test for power.
I'm wondering if you might have more than 1 problem. Even though these issues appear related, I have been guilty of looking for 1 big common problem when it really was a couple of little ones!
Good luck with it!
Last edited by BigDawg72; 01/05/10 12:09 AM.
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Re: e body dash/parking light question
[Re: 440challenger]
#572563
01/05/10 10:20 PM
01/05/10 10:20 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
Quote:
Sounds like, for whatever reason, there is no power going to headlight switch for regular lighting. I believe there should be 2 12v hot wires going to switch. One heavy gauge for headlamps only, which you have, and a smaller gauge wire coming straight from fuse box. The fact that there is no power getting to the inst fuse when headlight switch is on, kindof seems to show that. Unless the 73 is different from the past.
Would you know where the smaller wire would go on the fuse block? And where does the smaller wire come from? The switch itself?
The only spots open on my fuse block are the "batt" and "acc" on the bottom and then in the very top left looks to be a spot for a spade connector ,not positive though.
I think I know where you are getting confused. Not all fuses on the side marked ACC are switched. The top fuse (cavity 5) is also fed from the BATT side through the dimmer switch and the headlights.
Here is the power source for the fuse cavities:
1, 2, 3, 4, 5 Battery
6, 7, 8 are switched ACC
One side of Cavity 5 hooks to an 18 gauge orange wire. It goes from the fuse to Pin 6 of the ignition switch harness and jumpers there to another 18 gauge orange wire that goes to the radio connector. It Ys off of there to an orange mold connector that feeds the console gear selector lamp, stereo cassette lamp, ash receiver lamp, etc. The other side of Cavity 5 is the source and is fed by the wiper of the dimmer, 18 gauge tan wire.
Hope this helps.
Someone posted on here a color wiring diagram that would help you a lot. My eyes have a hard time with my shop diagram.
Craig
Last edited by denfireguy; 01/06/10 12:20 AM.
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: e body dash/parking light question
[Re: 440challenger]
#572568
01/07/10 09:54 PM
01/07/10 09:54 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
Put new dash light bulbs in. Now with the key off, lights off the far left dash bulb (one with the factory blue cover on it) stays lit. When i put the lights on, the bulb goes out! Does this mean i have a ground problem, and its backfeeding?
That bulb illuminates the headlamp switch and is part of the light package and is on a time delay. It is tied to the one on the steering column next to the key slot.
It will come on every time you open the driver door.
Craig
Last edited by denfireguy; 01/07/10 09:58 PM.
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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