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e body dash/parking light question

Posted By: 440challenger

e body dash/parking light question - 01/04/10 09:57 PM

Almost complete on my 73 barracuda resto. I have headlights,and blinkers.

I do not have any working dash backlights. I also can not get any of the parking lights on. I check for power at the 5amp fuse on the fuse block when the lights are on and im getting no power at all to that circuit.

Any ideas? My horn is also not getting any power....
Posted By: buildanother

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/04/10 10:11 PM

How's the tail fuse itself, or all of them for that matter?
Posted By: 440challenger

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/04/10 11:04 PM

tail fuse? All the fuses in the block are good. I checked both sides for power..
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/04/10 11:14 PM

The horn works differently than the lights.

The horn is a switch but it doesn't have any positive current attached to it, it creates a ground that trips the horn relay on the fuse block. The horn relay sends voltage to the horn. If the horn isn't working it could be the Power to the relay, The relay, the horn switch or more commonly the steering column ground.

Under the steering column should be a black ground wire going from the stud that holds the steering column to the dash and the bracket that bolts to the steering column. Make sure it is there.

Also if the dash lights do not work check for a good dash ground. Since the E bodies had the overhead lights it is easy for the dash to be grounded but the light panel to not be grounded.

Do the gauges work? if so then the dash frame is grounding OK if not clean some paint off of the bolt and frame at one end of the dash frame under the kick panel to help the grounding.

As for the parking lights check the grounds in the trunk and behind the battery. There should be two ground wires going to the lights IIRC. Check for voltage at the fuse block on both sides of the fuse. I have seen many bad glass fuses that were not burned. Next check for voltage going in and out of the ignition & Turn signal switches under the steering column. Next check the wiring at the bulkhead.

Hope it helps.
Posted By: scatcity

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/04/10 11:22 PM

As for the dash lights, could be a bad dimmer switch also. Does the dome light work the way it should ? Check the bottom lower left screw on the switch panel as this is the screw that grounds the pod to the dash frame. If that screw is missing, you wont have a ground, or dash lights.
Posted By: BigDawg72

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/05/10 12:52 AM

I was having a problem with the front parking lights on my 72 Challenger. It was a grounding issue with the light housings. All I had to do was sand the screw holes/contact surface a little and viola... front parking lights!

EDIY - My front turn signals were working, just not the parking lights. Grounding fixed it.
Posted By: 440challenger

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/05/10 01:47 AM

Well great info guys unfortunately i still havent fixed any of it. I added the ground strap to the column. I also checked to see if the screw was in the pod and it was. I added an additional ground wire just to be safe.

My ground up front from the battery to the radiator support is good. I have only one ground in the trunk and it is also good.I cleaned and wd 40'ed the bulkhead connections and also the dash to rear light harness plug.

So The only lights i have working are the brake lights ,headlights,and turnsignals.

No side parking lights or rear running lights.
No dash lights either
I assembled the complete dash out of the car so im pretty sure all the connections are "conencted".

My fuel gauge,amp gauge,etc are working properly as well as the "brake light"
Posted By: moparpoolman

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/05/10 02:22 AM

I had problems like this. As for your horn, you need to narrow down whether it's in the column or not, unplug the steering column conector and with a test light look for or if you know which one the horn is test it, if you find the right one the horn will blow when your test light lights up. If not while testing listen to see if you can hear the horn relay click. if no click try changing relay. if horn sounds or relay is clicking it's in the column and need to play with the button, sometimes the little wheel that makes contact.
As for your Dash lights, Double check bulbs, I've had all bad ones before. Play with dimmer back an forth a bunch of times, I've had a bunch of cars and all of them needed to be played with to get the dash lights to work.
Parking lights, make sure all wires are connected and not broken, I've had a broken wire going to a driver sidemarker light which gave me the same problem. , Poolman
Posted By: buildanother

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/05/10 02:35 AM

Sounds like, for whatever reason, there is no power going to headlight switch for regular lighting. I believe there should be 2 12v hot wires going to switch. One heavy gauge for headlamps only, which you have, and a smaller gauge wire coming straight from fuse box. The fact that there is no power getting to the inst fuse when headlight switch is on, kindof seems to show that. Unless the 73 is different from the past.
Posted By: 440challenger

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/05/10 02:49 AM

Quote:

Sounds like, for whatever reason, there is no power going to headlight switch for regular lighting. I believe there should be 2 12v hot wires going to switch. One heavy gauge for headlamps only, which you have, and a smaller gauge wire coming straight from fuse box. The fact that there is no power getting to the inst fuse when headlight switch is on, kindof seems to show that. Unless the 73 is different from the past.





Would you know where the smaller wire would go on the fuse block? And where does the smaller wire come from? The switch itself?



The only spots open on my fuse block are the "batt" and "acc" on the bottom and then in the very top left looks to be a spot for a spade connector ,not positive though.
Posted By: BigDawg72

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/05/10 04:06 AM

I went through a lot of this when I was installing different switches from stock in my new dash. I checked for voltage at the terminals on the headlight and dash dimmer switch with the connector only plugged about 3/4 in when I was trying to figure out the wiring for my new (cough cough) Chevy billet headlight switch (I wanted 1 switch for everything instead of 2). IIRC there is only 1 large wire (pink I think) that goes to the headlight switch. It was pretty easy to trace the wires by checking voltage on all the terminals then moving the switch to park and checking voltage again etc...

Your issue with the front parking lights is almost exactly like what I mentioned in my post above. The housing itself has to be grounded if it's the same as my 72 (only two hot wires going to light connector, 1 for park, 1 for turn signal). I used a test light and actually checked the bulb contacts in the socket to test for power.

I'm wondering if you might have more than 1 problem. Even though these issues appear related, I have been guilty of looking for 1 big common problem when it really was a couple of little ones!

Good luck with it!
Posted By: buildanother

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/05/10 08:29 PM

There should be a pink wire coming from fuse box directly to headlight switch connector, that should have batt power, provided the fuse (20 amp)is good. The same fuse also provides power to cig lighter so it has a red wire coming out of fuse box at the same fuse, that possibly could be marked "misc". That's right out of a 72 shop man., should be close. The headlights themselves do not receive power from fuse box
Posted By: denfireguy

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/06/10 02:20 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Sounds like, for whatever reason, there is no power going to headlight switch for regular lighting. I believe there should be 2 12v hot wires going to switch. One heavy gauge for headlamps only, which you have, and a smaller gauge wire coming straight from fuse box. The fact that there is no power getting to the inst fuse when headlight switch is on, kindof seems to show that. Unless the 73 is different from the past.





Would you know where the smaller wire would go on the fuse block? And where does the smaller wire come from? The switch itself?



The only spots open on my fuse block are the "batt" and "acc" on the bottom and then in the very top left looks to be a spot for a spade connector ,not positive though.



I think I know where you are getting confused. Not all fuses on the side marked ACC are switched. The top fuse (cavity 5) is also fed from the BATT side through the dimmer switch and the headlights.
Here is the power source for the fuse cavities:
1, 2, 3, 4, 5 Battery
6, 7, 8 are switched ACC
One side of Cavity 5 hooks to an 18 gauge orange wire. It goes from the fuse to Pin 6 of the ignition switch harness and jumpers there to another 18 gauge orange wire that goes to the radio connector. It Ys off of there to an orange mold connector that feeds the console gear selector lamp, stereo cassette lamp, ash receiver lamp, etc. The other side of Cavity 5 is the source and is fed by the wiper of the dimmer, 18 gauge tan wire.
Hope this helps.
Someone posted on here a color wiring diagram that would help you a lot. My eyes have a hard time with my shop diagram.
Craig
Posted By: moparpoolman

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/06/10 04:36 AM

Is That your Challenger in the pic?? Why don't you look at it to see what you're missing??
Posted By: N9671X2

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/07/10 01:17 AM

I had some gremlins like that, finally tracked it down to the fuse holders were very lightly oxidized, just enough that when I was checking power I had it on both ends of the fuse, but it wasn't carrying into the fuse holder. If you haven't, make sure they are REALLY clean.
Posted By: 440challenger

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/07/10 01:51 AM

Im going to go at it again this weekend.I checked my challenger this morning vs the wiring on the cuda and everything is plugged in the same as my challenger. I will check the fuse holders for corrison.

I think if i had a ground problem , the additional ground wire i added to the switch panel, and a quick ground wire i added to a screw on the light bar should have made a ground.

When i go full left on the dimmer i cannot get any lights either so i think somewhere im not getting power...
Posted By: 440challenger

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/08/10 01:44 AM

Put new dash light bulbs in. Now with the key off, lights off the far left dash bulb (one with the factory blue cover on it) stays lit. When i put the lights on, the bulb goes out! Does this mean i have a ground problem, and its backfeeding?
Posted By: denfireguy

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/08/10 01:54 AM

Quote:

Put new dash light bulbs in. Now with the key off, lights off the far left dash bulb (one with the factory blue cover on it) stays lit. When i put the lights on, the bulb goes out! Does this mean i have a ground problem, and its backfeeding?


That bulb illuminates the headlamp switch and is part of the light package and is on a time delay. It is tied to the one on the steering column next to the key slot.
It will come on every time you open the driver door.
Craig
Posted By: buildanother

Re: e body dash/parking light question - 01/08/10 01:54 AM

Does it have a light package maybe?
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