Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Main bearings are Clevite MS-876P,rod are Clevite CB-743H.Both were supplied with the kit.The rods bearings do not have interference with the radius.

---

My rod bearings clear also. I am using Clevite CB-743HN, this replaced the CB-743H bearings as all of the "H" are now narrowed "HN" as I understand it.

Quote:

---

crank end play was checked and were in spec.It came in at .006,.004 to .009 is acceptable.

---

Mine turned out to be 0.005", so it was fine too.

---

You can't find 527HDs anymore,HNs is about the only choise.

---

i ordered CB527HND that is what i used 2 yrs ago but thay were just a hair too wide and needed files edges.

Quote:

---

some after market cranks put knurls in the crank, but I can't figure out why. .......The knurl is there if you're going to use a rope seal, and who does that??? (that shows a company that copies something and doesn't even know why it's there) My Source crank was knurled there, so I had it ground off while being indexed......

---

I believe the knurl is there to direct the oil away from the seal. Many stock cranks have this from the factory, my BB Buick did.

Quote:

---

I know that nothing is "perfect", thats why there are tolerances. But as a point of reference, how do "stock" mopar cranks measure out in regards to journal taper, concentricy, and indexing? A lot of folks take factory stuff and reuse it with out checking anything and don't give it a second thought. Just an honest question that maybe some of you machinist that have checked a lot of them can answer.
I too am looking very seriously at a 440 source kit.
Thanks, Brian

---

Quote:

---

Not bashing Source, or anyone else here, but the problem with these "cheap" kits, is that they are marketed as "ready to assemble" and "just as good" as some of the other higher priced kits. This is where I have a problem. The problems that BG is finding are serious issues and if a novice just slaps it together, there will be problems with the motor. Sure, you can take it to a reputable shop and have it checked, but if they fix it, and a good shop will, it will cost you money. Where as, I would just about guarantee, that if you paid a little more and bought a K-1 kit, or something similar, it would be perfect and indeed ready to assemble. So in the long run, which is the better deal? To fix the flange, the taper, the runout, the cosmetics, scrape bearings and rebalance....you are into a good deal of labor on your "cheap" crank and we have not even looked at the rods and pistons yet. And from all the evidence we have seen in the past, you would be crazy to NOT have all this stuff checked. So I am just not seeing the huge cost savings in these "ready to assemble" economy engine kits. It MIGHT save an experienced builder a few bucks, because he will check and repair all this stuff himself.....but, the time spent will be passed on to a customer. I still see no savings in it for the "average" guy.

Monte

---

Well said! Mainly im curious as well as to what the "actual" cost will be! However Im sure that would vary also ! but atleats that way people dont get "sticker shock" when they go pick up the discount stroker kit from their machinist.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Not bashing Source, or anyone else here, but the problem with these "cheap" kits, is that they are marketed as "ready to assemble" and "just as good" as some of the other higher priced kits. This is where I have a problem. The problems that BG is finding are serious issues and if a novice just slaps it together, there will be problems with the motor. Sure, you can take it to a reputable shop and have it checked, but if they fix it, and a good shop will, it will cost you money. Where as, I would just about guarantee, that if you paid a little more and bought a K-1 kit, or something similar, it would be perfect and indeed ready to assemble. So in the long run, which is the better deal? To fix the flange, the taper, the runout, the cosmetics, scrape bearings and rebalance....you are into a good deal of labor on your "cheap" crank and we have not even looked at the rods and pistons yet. And from all the evidence we have seen in the past, you would be crazy to NOT have all this stuff checked. So I am just not seeing the huge cost savings in these "ready to assemble" economy engine kits. It MIGHT save an experienced builder a few bucks, because he will check and repair all this stuff himself.....but, the time spent will be passed on to a customer. I still see no savings in it for the "average" guy.

Monte

---

Well said! Mainly im curious as well as to what the "actual" cost will be! However Im sure that would vary also ! but atleats that way people dont get "sticker shock" when they go pick up the discount stroker kit from their machinist.

---

Well said,this is the point that I was trying to make over a year ago,what can be expected with the lower cost kits and is there a cost saving once you get the corrections done.And yes,you can't compare stock production engines to be competitive.They need to be corrected and fine tuned for even a stock class.There are a lot of good info being shared,take advantage of it.Rods and pistons next.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Not bashing Source, or anyone else here, but the problem with these "cheap" kits, is that they are marketed as "ready to assemble" and "just as good" as some of the other higher priced kits. This is where I have a problem. The problems that BG is finding are serious issues and if a novice just slaps it together, there will be problems with the motor. Sure, you can take it to a reputable shop and have it checked, but if they fix it, and a good shop will, it will cost you money. Where as, I would just about guarantee, that if you paid a little more and bought a K-1 kit, or something similar, it would be perfect and indeed ready to assemble. So in the long run, which is the better deal? To fix the flange, the taper, the runout, the cosmetics, scrape bearings and rebalance....you are into a good deal of labor on your "cheap" crank and we have not even looked at the rods and pistons yet. And from all the evidence we have seen in the past, you would be crazy to NOT have all this stuff checked. So I am just not seeing the huge cost savings in these "ready to assemble" economy engine kits. It MIGHT save an experienced builder a few bucks, because he will check and repair all this stuff himself.....but, the time spent will be passed on to a customer. I still see no savings in it for the "average" guy.

Monte

---

Well said! Mainly im curious as well as to what the "actual" cost will be! However Im sure that would vary also ! but atleats that way people dont get "sticker shock" when they go pick up the discount stroker kit from their machinist.

---

Well said,this is the point that I was trying to make over a year ago,what can be expected with the lower cost kits and is there a cost saving once you get the corrections done.And yes,you can't compare stock production engines to be competitive.They need to be corrected and fine tuned for even a stock class.There are a lot of good info being shared,take advantage of it.Rods and pistons next.

---

Quote:

---

For those curious about whether issues were adderssed on later kits... I've used or looked at these parts since I think about 5 (maybe 6?) years ago. The last one I used was 3 years ago, a 4.25 stroke RB pkg. As of that time no issues Bob's noted had been addressed since the first few kits a couple years prior to that. Also in regard to the bobweight stamped ont he crank... I believ that's just what the counterweights are desinged to weigh so you can tell if it needs mallory or not during the planning phase. It's not what the bobweight should be. From what I understand of Source's balancing I am curious to see if this kit really is balanced and ready to go.

The two most important details of this post as it evolves is to watch and see what needs to be checked (as opposed to plastigaging or using emery to clearance piston pins), and how much it will cost to correct the issues that need to be corrected (as opposed to some issues that are acceptable "per spec"). I do believe the kits are a good value for most buyers even after spending a little extra to get things acceptable. Not "Right." or "Perfect.", but acceptable. However "ready to run" is simply not the case.

---

As stated,we will assume that the stampings was for refrence,we will spin it and check it with the actual bobweight.

Quote:

---

Not bashing Source, or anyone else here, but the problem with these "cheap" kits, is that they are marketed as "ready to assemble" and "just as good" as some of the other higher priced kits. This is where I have a problem. The problems that BG is finding are serious issues and if a novice just slaps it together, there will be problems with the motor. Sure, you can take it to a reputable shop and have it checked, but if they fix it, and a good shop will, it will cost you money. Where as, I would just about guarantee, that if you paid a little more and bought a K-1 kit, or something similar, it would be perfect and indeed ready to assemble. So in the long run, which is the better deal? To fix the flange, the taper, the runout, the cosmetics, scrape bearings and rebalance....you are into a good deal of labor on your "cheap" crank and we have not even looked at the rods and pistons yet. And from all the evidence we have seen in the past, you would be crazy to NOT have all this stuff checked. So I am just not seeing the huge cost savings in these "ready to assemble" economy engine kits. It MIGHT save an experienced builder a few bucks, because he will check and repair all this stuff himself.....but, the time spent will be passed on to a customer. I still see no savings in it for the "average" guy.

Monte

---

Hit the nail on the head.Sometime soon I will want to buy a kit and yes I am a cheap minded person but also I know what the bottom line is. So this build by BG is great.Only thing would be even better would be a side by side build with a higher priced "american made" kit. That would be intresting.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Not bashing Source, or anyone else here, but the problem with these "cheap" kits, is that they are marketed as "ready to assemble" and "just as good" as some of the other higher priced kits. This is where I have a problem. The problems that BG is finding are serious issues and if a novice just slaps it together, there will be problems with the motor. Sure, you can take it to a reputable shop and have it checked, but if they fix it, and a good shop will, it will cost you money. Where as, I would just about guarantee, that if you paid a little more and bought a K-1 kit, or something similar, it would be perfect and indeed ready to assemble. So in the long run, which is the better deal? To fix the flange, the taper, the runout, the cosmetics, scrape bearings and rebalance....you are into a good deal of labor on your "cheap" crank and we have not even looked at the rods and pistons yet. And from all the evidence we have seen in the past, you would be crazy to NOT have all this stuff checked. So I am just not seeing the huge cost savings in these "ready to assemble" economy engine kits. It MIGHT save an experienced builder a few bucks, because he will check and repair all this stuff himself.....but, the time spent will be passed on to a customer. I still see no savings in it for the "average" guy.

Monte

---

Hit the nail on the head.Sometime soon I will want to buy a kit and yes I am a cheap minded person but also I know what the bottom line is. So this build by BG is great.Only thing would be even better would be a side by side build with a higher priced "american made" kit. That would be intresting.

---

We already have a baseline cost for the kits using other budget kits(Eagle Assemblys)At the conclusion we will do that comparasion.Just what do you consider an "American Kit".To compare to a kit using Oliver rods,Bryant cranks,JE pistons would be worthless to most budget minded racer.Those high doller cranks cost as much or near as much as an Eagle or Source complete kit.

Quote:

---

I really don't know. What you are saying is that the high dollar cranks alone cost as much as a kit from Source or Eagle. You are right that is out of my budget range.As far a american made kit who knows anymore.Should of said a kit that is in the same price range.Must of missed your first post on what you are trying to do.Thank you for doing this build.

---

Then you have made a fair request and at the conclusion of the build we will give the cost comparasion.This has been the concerning issue from day one,is the low cost worth it or do you spend more on corrections and labor than buying a kit at a little higher cost. Cost is the driving factor,not where anything is made.

Quote:

---

Bob, aside from Eagle, who else are you comparing the source kits too?

---

There are quite a few,Cat,Scat,and many suppliers are selling kits with various combinations of parts,Indy,Mancini,Ohio Crankshaft and just about all the Mopar builders,many on Moparts.We have been using Eagle from Indy with great success.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Bob, aside from Eagle, who else are you comparing the source kits too?

---

There are quite a few,Cat,Scat,and many suppliers are selling kits with various combinations of parts,Indy,Mancini,Ohio Crankshaft and just about all the Mopar builders,many on Moparts.We have been using Eagle from Indy with great success.

---