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great welds
the only problem i see
what size is it looks like 1"5/8
that is not leagal bar
roll bar must be 1"3/4
gage can all be
1"5/8

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it looks good daniel,paint it and be done.iv'e been freshening the top end on my 65 coronet,putting a smaller tube header on it hoping to making a little more low end power.have a good holidays,sam.

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Thanks Sam and happy holidays to you as well ...

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I think that roll bar looks great for the time you had and it looks safe enough to me and I think it will pass tech for sure.

But I am going to say something just so others will have the info.

Rule book says the main hoop has to be attached to the "rocker sill". MOST tech's won't ding you on this. But, you want to keep the main hoop from pushing those 6X6 plates through the floorpan.

If you really wanted to make it safer you can add the 2 bars that would go to the top of your frame ties like was mentioned. I personally think it looks fine and will pass tech.

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You are right on the plates to the sill thing ,and its hard to see in the pics but the outside edge of the plate is bent up a bit onto the sill.It isnt however as much as you did it.I wish i had done it like you did ,but at the time i was affraid (because i didnt know) ,that the bar needed to be centered pretty well on the plate.Looking at that pic of your ,i see that it doesnt have to be centered on the plate.Thanks for the compliment on the install ...

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I think that roll bar looks great for the time you had and it looks safe enough to me and I think it will pass tech for sure.

But I am going to say something just so others will have the info.

Rule book says the main hoop has to be attached to the "rocker sill". MOST tech's won't ding you on this. But, you want to keep the main hoop from pushing those 6X6 plates through the floorpan.

If you really wanted to make it safer you can add the 2 bars that would go to the top of your frame ties like was mentioned. I personally think it looks fine and will pass tech.

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You are right on the plates to the sill thing ,and its hard to see in the pics but the outside edge of the plate is bent up a bit onto the sill.It isnt however as much as you did it.I wish i had done it like you did ,but at the time i was affraid (because i didnt know) ,that the bar needed to be centered pretty well on the plate.Looking at that pic of your ,i see that it doesnt have to be centered on the plate.Thanks for the compliment on the install ...

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I think that roll bar looks great for the time you had and it looks safe enough to me and I think it will pass tech for sure.

But I am going to say something just so others will have the info.

Rule book says the main hoop has to be attached to the "rocker sill". MOST tech's won't ding you on this. But, you want to keep the main hoop from pushing those 6X6 plates through the floorpan.

If you really wanted to make it safer you can add the 2 bars that would go to the top of your frame ties like was mentioned. I personally think it looks fine and will pass tech.

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Yeah, when we did mine we kept the plates up right by the front corners of the back seat. (What a rodeo getting that back seat back in...) Putting them down on the floor pan moved them too far forward for my liking too. This way we were able to hide my bars a bit behind the post. It was more time and labour to have the hoop up, but that is how the kit came, and I am glad we did it that way. I looked at getting the S&W kit, but the Art Morrison was about the same price, and the shipping was less to the Canadian border. They did an AWESOME job on the cage fitment. They hadn't done a cage before, for an Aspen or a Volare, so they went and found a car, and measured it up.

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Looking at those welds on the right side support bar it looks like the welder did the on/off on/off of the trigger overlapping spot welds instead of a vertical up weld. Almost no HAZ indication next to the weld.
I hope he didn't use this method on the rear supports at the hoop.

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Its called stitch welding.... works fine

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Yes, it is called "stitch welding" and in this application it does not "work fine". It should have a proper 'stringer' weld. Stitch weld your new quarter panels, not a roll bar.

Here's some more on the subject....

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/archive/index.php/t-5923.html

Maybe some certified welders will jump in here also.

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I took a look at the pic you guys are referring to..

IMO that is a very bad weld and not safe. But it's not the reason you guys are talking about.

I'll explain, If you look at the weld closely the arcs point up not down (I hope this makes sense to you guys). If the arcs point up that means the welder made the number one mistake, unless of course the car was upside down when he welded it.

What I am saying is he did a vertical down weld which is never acceptable on any critical or structural weld. Vert down weld are only good for sheetmetal, tacs, or other non critical areas. But still you should never pactice or get used to this method.

Just my

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If we are talking about the same weld, the short little down kickers being welded the "wrong" direction with "stitch" welding, with that large of welded joint, he could have soldered it together for all the loading (compression?) it will likely ever see, even in a crash, the tubing will fail much earlier, unless he was using 3/8" wall tubing, we are really chasing our tails here.

With all this 2 cents stuff, it might finally add up to something

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You are correct.

I was just looking at it from a certified weld inspector stand point. It would be rejected immediately by just visual alone, let alone NDT....





Were in the money now

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Well here is my opinion, I welded for 40+ years I think that the down hand weld is not as strong as vert up but a lot of shops that do roolbar work use it. thay are putting a 20" gas line in down the street from me, welded down hand, E7010 just like we welded it back in the 60 . And to me mig welding is junk weld I have seen some of them atculy peel off By the way the cage in my car is miged vert up

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Well here is my opinion, I welded for 40+ years I think that the down hand weld is not as strong as vert up but a lot of shops that do roolbar work use it. thay are putting a 20" gas line in down the street from me, welded down hand, E7010 just like we welded it back in the 60 . And to me mig welding is junk weld I have seen some of them atculy peel off By the way the cage in my car is miged vert up

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Yes in certain applications vert down is ok. In a 6G application like you are talking about, there is a rod designed specifically for vert down. It's a pipeliner rod E7010-P1 this is made specifically for vert down on pipe.

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Well here is my opinion, I welded for 40+ years I think that the down hand weld is not as strong as vert up but a lot of shops that do roolbar work use it. thay are putting a 20" gas line in down the street from me, welded down hand, E7010 just like we welded it back in the 60 . And to me mig welding is junk weld I have seen some of them atculy peel off By the way the cage in my car is miged vert up

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Yes in certain applications vert down is ok. In a 6G application like you are talking about, there is a rod designed specifically for vert down. It's a pipeliner rod E7010-P1 this is made specifically for vert down on pipe.

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Its a rollbar for gods sake not 1/2" thick plates!
Those welds is probably the strongest thing in the whole car.

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The OP asked if anyone seen any problems. People started critiquing the welds. Being a nuke certified welder, I thought I'd reply on what I seen with the weld in question....

That is all...

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Well here is my opinion, I welded for 40+ years I think that the down hand weld is not as strong as vert up but a lot of shops that do roolbar work use it. thay are putting a 20" gas line in down the street from me, welded down hand, E7010 just like we welded it back in the 60 . And to me mig welding is junk weld I have seen some of them atculy peel off By the way the cage in my car is miged vert up

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Yes in certain applications vert down is ok. In a 6G application like you are talking about, there is a rod designed specifically for vert down. It's a pipeliner rod E7010-P1 this is made specifically for vert down on pipe.

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Its a rollbar for gods sake not 1/2" thick plates!
Those welds is probably the strongest thing in the whole car.

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The OP asked if anyone seen any problems. People started critiquing the welds. Being a nuke certified welder, I thought I'd reply on what I seen with the weld in question....

That is all...

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I didnt meen to be rude or upset anyone, just wanted to say that that is a very good job done

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Aside from all the weld critiques which was very educational, I have a question and am surprised nobody else picked up on it. Are you planning on using a 5 point harness? There could be a major problem. I don't know how tall you are, but if you are planning on routing the shoulder belts through the seat, you will fail. The cross bar cannot be higher than shoulder height and no more than 4 inches below shoulder level. If you are planning on routing the shoulder belts over and around and the racing seat headrest, than you could be ok if it is within the 0 to -4" or 90 degree driver to shoulder belts angle. If not, that bar will not pass. You should really check these measurements while seated to make sure you will be safe. Even if only going to run "low 11's"

On another note, it drives me a little crazy when folks say they are only going to go "this" fast. Guess what, someone that is faster than you will be chasing you one day and all hell may break loose and you are in the cross hairs of the faster car. God forbid you are ever in this situation. Do you want to plan for your car only going so fast, or plan on what could happen and know that you followed the guidelines to make sure you kept yourself safe? If what I said about your belt mounting measurements/angles are off, if your car were to fold on impact, your spine would be compressed/crushed from the shoulder belts down. Other than looking out for you, the bar looks like a job well done. Thanks for asking everyones opinion. If you want me to copy the rollbar and seatbelt sections of the rulebook for you, just drop me a PM
-Jason

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No certification required until you need a cage.Roll bars only need the bare minimum bars,the size and 100% weld.IHRA,NHRA don't certify roll bars. Don't let anyone scare you,it looks fine and is functionally correct.