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Re: lower control arm bushings
[Re: Big B]
#558587
12/20/09 06:33 PM
12/20/09 06:33 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,880
USA
Ron Silva
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,880
USA
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I like the poly ones. I think they would be better for suspension rise.
I think on most you leave the original inner/outer metal shell from the old bushing. So be sure before you remove these items during the install.
SRT DEMON ONE SEAT
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Re: lower control arm bushings
[Re: Ron Silva]
#558588
12/21/09 10:00 AM
12/21/09 10:00 AM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,495
Shelby mi.
JAKE68
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,495
Shelby mi.
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If it is for a drag race application do not use the poly. They are way too stiff.
JAKES AUTOMOTIVE
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Re: lower control arm bushings
[Re: JAKE68]
#558589
12/21/09 10:03 AM
12/21/09 10:03 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 11,179
Atco NJ
DJVCuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 11,179
Atco NJ
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they might be stiff, but they let the suspension travel easier then the rubber - in my findings - the rubber bind and the poly rotate with suspension travel. They also help keep your alignment while exercising that front end.  I would recommend a new set of lower control arm pivots - as they have flat spots since the poly ones rotate too easy and you cant get a torque reading on them like rubber - that feature alone shows that they will have more travel
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Re: lower control arm bushings
[Re: DJVCuda]
#558590
12/21/09 11:27 AM
12/21/09 11:27 AM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,128
sweden
sshemi
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,128
sweden
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Quote:
they might be stiff, but they let the suspension travel easier then the rubber - in my findings -
the rubber bind and the poly rotate with suspension travel.
They also help keep your alignment while exercising that front end.
I would recommend a new set of lower control arm pivots - as they have flat spots since the poly ones rotate too easy and you cant get a torque reading on them like rubber - that feature alone shows that they will have more travel
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Re: lower control arm bushings
[Re: Ron Silva]
#558591
12/21/09 12:52 PM
12/21/09 12:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840
The Swamp
Sixpak
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840
The Swamp
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Quote:
I like the poly ones. I think they would be better for suspension rise.
I think on most you leave the original inner/outer metal shell from the old bushing. So be sure before you remove these items during the install.
You mean DON'T remove them, correct?
When I installed polys I noticed two problems with them. The rubber bushings seem to limit fore/aft movement of the LCA, thereby keeping the Caster settings in place. But the polys seemed like they would allow the LCA to slide back, thereby changing/reducing any + Caster. Is the tension of the torsion bar enough to prevent this, or should all the slack between the bar and the LCA pin be shimmed out?
Also, regarding the Caster, it seemed that bulbous end on the poly bushing seemed to move the LCA further back as well, reducing + Caster... 
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Re: lower control arm bushings
[Re: Sixpak]
#558593
12/21/09 03:11 PM
12/21/09 03:11 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,880
USA
Ron Silva
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,880
USA
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Quote:
Quote:
I like the poly ones. I think they would be better for suspension rise.
I think on most you leave the original inner/outer metal shell from the old bushing. So be sure before you remove these items during the install.
You mean DON'T remove them, correct?
When I installed polys I noticed two problems with them. The rubber bushings seem to limit fore/aft movement of the LCA, thereby keeping the Caster settings in place. But the polys seemed like they would allow the LCA to slide back, thereby changing/reducing any + Caster. Is the tension of the torsion bar enough to prevent this, or should all the slack between the bar and the LCA pin be shimmed out?
Also, regarding the Caster, it seemed that bulbous end on the poly bushing seemed to move the LCA further back as well, reducing + Caster...
Yes, I mean do not remove the shells until you figure out what you need. Most times you need the shells to remain in place. Some aftermarket LCA pivot pins are bigger diameter to work with the poly bushings (eliminating the need for an inner shell). The ones I got from Firm Feel were this way. Some bushings are thicker so you can remove the inner shell and slide the bushing right over the LCA pivot pin. I think in all cases you keep the outer shell.
Now listen closely.....The poly LCA bushings are not what is pushing the LCA back. It's the fact that every supplier of bushings nowadays are providing the "imroved" design STRUT ROD bushings. They are the 2 piece with sleeve and they are basically the B & E body bushings. These are thicker and they place the STRUT ROD back farther and that pushes the LCA back. I highly reccomend getting adjustable strut rods. I am using the very high quality HD versions from Firm Feel. They are like jewels!
With the adj strut rods, you can position the suspension after it is assymbled and at ride height, without the torsion bars installed, and you can literally feel where the neutral setting is. Where the LCA wants to be (after pushing it all the way forward!). If I adjusted 1/2 turn either way it got tight. So you can definately feel where it works best so you do not put the LCA in a bind.
Anyhow, I could easily get 5 deg neg caster after setting my car up this way. And, I do not get all the negative camber when my car goes into a wheelstand.
If you use the split strut rod bushings and stock strut rods it will always try to push the LCA back about 1/2" off the pivot pin.
SRT DEMON ONE SEAT
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