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Just when you thought it couldn't get any better , my old dusty 1985 dave morgan chassis tuning manual comes out of retirement, maybe this is the "data" he was referring to.......hmmmmmmm

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Mine says Dave Morgan on it. He was sponsored by Alston back in the eighties (60's) though.

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he worked for alston for many years. racepak has just come on board to sponsor him. imagine that, sponsoring somebody who doesn't know how to set pinion angle sombody needs to send calvert a t-shirt also along with spicer.

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Just when you thought it couldn't get any better , my old dusty 1985 dave morgan chassis tuning manual comes out of retirement, maybe this is the "data" he was referring to.......hmmmmmmm

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you must just look at pictures and don't read anything Dave has stated that is they way they done things back in the 60s. he has said many times after testing and solving many vibration and drive train issues he found it not to be correct in his opinion. he now recommends setting of of the motor/tranny center line. nice try though. it must really make you think also take a look, the motor/tranny center line is on the same line as the drive shaft......

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Tony if you notice that the drive line is in line
in that pic... same way I set up my chassis stuff,
then I dial in the pinion angle on the drive shaft
just like the pic, which gives the front and rear
U-joints just a bit of angle for lube purposes

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Just when you thought it couldn't get any better , my old dusty 1985 dave morgan chassis tuning manual comes out of retirement, maybe this is the "data" he was referring to.......hmmmmmmm

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you must just look at pictures and don't read anything Dave has stated that is they way they done things back in the 60s. he has said many times after testing and solving many vibration and drive train issues he found it not to be correct in his opinion. he now recommends setting of of the motor/tranny center line. nice try though. it must really make you think also take a look, the motor/tranny center line is on the same line as the drive shaft......

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Tony if you notice that the drive line is in line
in that pic... same way I set up my chassis stuff,
then I dial in the pinion angle on the drive shaft
just like the pic, which gives the front and rear
U-joints just a bit of angle for lube purposes

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with that pic it further proves my point. you could pull that shaft out and still set your angle

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All that I'm saying (and always have) is there may be
more ways to get to the end of the road.... yes it
COULD mean the trans and ALSO mean the drive shaft
6 of 1 and 1/2 dozen of the other..... same end point
but from a different exit. You might notice that when
people ask about this, I give BOTH choices, not what
I think might be correct

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you do that to cover your butt

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http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7571/

back for the holidays

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Just when you thought it couldn't get any better , my old dusty 1985 dave morgan chassis tuning manual comes out of retirement, maybe this is the "data" he was referring to.......hmmmmmmm

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you must just look at pictures and don't read anything Dave has stated that is they way they done things back in the 60s. he has said many times after testing and solving many vibration and drive train issues he found it not to be correct in his opinion. he now recommends setting of of the motor/tranny center line. nice try though. it must really make you think also take a look, the motor/tranny center line is on the same line as the drive shaft......

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Wow!!, How did I miss this thread

All of Dave Morgans pics Shows a desired "Parallel driveline angle."

In the pics it shows that the tranny centerline and pinion centerline are on the Same plane.

In That case 'YES: you can set your Pinion angle Off the Driveshaft Alone for a optimized U jount function.

For the most part in the real world thats not the case. In the Real world if you set Pinion angle off the driveshaft Alone, Its a Crapshoot.

You Have No Idea what your True Pinion Angle is!


Now,Does That really Matter Ahhhh?? Yeah It could Be! Universal jounts are Forgiving.

But heres the Best Point I can Make!!

Universal Jounts Function Best with the Least amount of Friction and also occilation at a Parallel angle.

If your measuring Pinion angle off the Driveshaft alone, your measuring it Blindly.

I think its Time That Once and for all We ALL understand

HOW Universal Jounts Work!!

There is Vidieo on this. They Want a parallel plane. Pure and Simple.

Even Dave Morgan Agrees

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My head hurts....anybody have any asprin

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anyone got a link to the last PA love fest? I forget who does it which way.

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Just when you thought it couldn't get any better , my old dusty 1985 dave morgan chassis tuning manual comes out of retirement, maybe this is the "data" he was referring to.......hmmmmmmm

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you must just look at pictures and don't read anything Dave has stated that is they way they done things back in the 60s. he has said many times after testing and solving many vibration and drive train issues he found it not to be correct in his opinion. he now recommends setting of of the motor/tranny center line. nice try though. it must really make you think also take a look, the motor/tranny center line is on the same line as the drive shaft......

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Tony if you notice that the drive line is in line
in that pic... same way I set up my chassis stuff,
then I dial in the pinion angle on the drive shaft
just like the pic, which gives the front and rear
U-joints just a bit of angle for lube purposes

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with that pic it further proves my point. you could pull that shaft out and still set your angle

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Actually Tony if you look at the pic, that one is
set up INCORRECTLY... if you notice that the front
joint is in line BUT the rear still has the pinion
angle on it... you want BOTH joints to be in line
while under load... in the case of the pic, as the
pinion rotates up it will pull the rear into line
but the shaft will move upward moving the front joint
off of the same line.... when I set up my chassis/engine
I use a laser that I made up to fit in the rear main
of the engine and set the engine and pinion all in
line.... then rotate the pinion down which will give
BOTH joints movement for lube while not under full load

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you want BOTH joints to be in line
while under load...

.... then rotate the pinion down which will give
BOTH joints movement for lube while not under full load

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you want BOTH joints to be in line
while under load...

.... then rotate the pinion down which will give
BOTH joints movement for lube while not under full load

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if you have everything inline with no misalignment the ujoints do not move, just spin with the crank/driveshaft/pinion leaving the needle bearings stationary. That creates point contact between the roller and shaft causing flat spots under load. For the needle bearings to roll you need working angles and the front and rear should cancel each other out to maintain constant velocity. IMO you want a small equal but opposite working angle under load to work the ujoints. when the working angles are to far off is when you have driveline vibrations due to the different velocities in the ujoints. flame away.

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No I'm not gonna flame away but I really dont think
you (at least me) get it 100% in line but I try to,
and I still have the same joints in it since I built
the car(both times) without any sign of wear or
flatting.... but then again I dont make much power

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it may see that perfectly inline scenario somewhere during launch/acceleration but with the dynamics of the rear suspension it's not staying there for long. so what does that mean in the big picture? My guess and I have talked to Monte in PM's during the last PA love fest and he agreed (I think? don't mean to put words in his mouth) that as long as we're close that's good enough. IMO as long as we keep the working angles within a degree of each other we are good to go.

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I would have to agree .... the launch sees the
greatest load so thats when I HOPE its in line but
as torque replenishes it isnt in line any longer