what head would you use on a race 528, what size runners and flow should i be looking for?

i want to build a new engine for the digger, new iron block, 14,15-1 comp,alky fuel,

indy 440-1
indy 572-13
b1
not as familiar with the different b1 products

any info appreciated, lee

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b1
not as familiar with the different b1 products

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Give Scott a call or send him a PM b1headman

He'll be more than happy to explain the differences and set suggest the right B1 for your application.
Tell him I sent ya,

A lot depends on how high you are willing to spin it. My 528 with 440-1 ported heads pulled max power from 6600 rpm to 7000 rpm, I shift at 7200. I wouldn't waste the time with the 572-13 unless you get a smoking deal on them, as they don't produce that much more power than a well done up 440-1. Then it would be time to move to a b1, and if you are going that far, spend the fesw extra $$ and get the Moved Centerline version and you can really build some steam. Those are for a 4.500 bore. You might be revving it to 7600 to 7800 rpm or more, but the potential for 1050 + hp is there.

thanks bill and greg

spinning the motor wouldn't bother me at all, as it will have good parts in it.

thanks for the heads up on the 572-13, i did not know they was not that much better.

i have the 499 stock block in it now , and want to start buying up parts to replace it with . i thought i would go to the 528 to carry the extra weight of the aftermarket block

let me know what you think

If you haven't got a crank yet, you might want to go bigger than 528. Just a thought.

I'm using the -1's on my 528 build, haven't picked a cam yet.

What would be the Bore size on this particular 528 combo?
I will assume a 4.5 bore with a 4.15 crank.
The real question needs to be answered is how much power are you looking to make?
The 440-1 will make 800+ in a all out deal easy.
Any way you slice it a B1 Original on that same motor will make another 75+hp more.
The B1 stuff is a little extra money for the bare heads, or assembled...After that I see very little if any price diff, A jesel or T&D rocker system will cost you about the same. The port work will cost you about the same, pistons willbe about the same...You might see some additional cost on valves, some like the titanium valves in the B1 stuff due to the over all diameter and length..Im sure there is plenty of guys running run of the mill stainless valves though.
Other things to consider.
The Indy heads have a better choice of intakes, with B1 heads you have two choices, the cast B1 intake which is a nice piece, or a sheet metal custom intake.

I would go with the B1 stuff for the simple fact of way more power potential. It has better resale value IMO also.
If your looking to save some money but wanting to go with the B1 stuff, you dont need full tilt port work to make 800+ hp with these heads..You do with the Indy stuff.
I would imagine it would cost a extra $500 for the B1 package over a similar Indy package. maybe a hair more. Thats not that bad of a deal for 75-100+ Hp IMO.

Fact is I built a engine similar to this with Indy stuff, in the end I wished I went with B1 stuff.
When you see people upgrading and they are running a Indy Package..they are going with B1 stuff for a reason.

greg no i don't have a crank or any perts at this time. just trying to make a game plan.

sure i could build a larger engine, but the dragster runs 5.04-5.08 with the 499. add 50 -100lbs for the aftermarket block. maybe a 528 will go the same or maybe 4.9s.

i like the times it is running, never a traction issue,only a few quicker than me, and besides i am not got alot of passes in it, i need more seat time.


bob thanks alot

yes i was thinking 4.50X4.150

power level? 5.05 at 1850= 750ish ? 4.95 at 1950lbs= ??? maybe 100 more hp, i am not sure,i have not calculated it,

$500 for that hp is a bargain,the only reason for me to use -1s is i have 2 sets already,if i want to take an engine apart that is.

the moved centerline heads must cost alot more?

i assume the rpm range would be higher with the b1s

My 540 ci B1 makes 800 Hp at 6500 rpm with a small roller cam and unported heads. These are originals, MCs do cost more because of the 2.4 Ti valves, but they make more HP also.

lots of different ways to look at this. personally if i had a set of -1's in good shape i might well be looking to use those. either way i'd up the displacement it doesn't cost much if any more when done from the start. another personal opinion is about the bore. i really don't like the idea of going right to 4.5 as this kinda wears out the block right from the start. yes i know you can often go bigger but then things can start to get thin including the head gasket purchase between the bores. currently my parts pile is a 4.44 bore KB, 4.5 stroke b1 build. to give you an example i did a 540 for a friend with a megablock 4.375 bore, 4.5 stroke around 14.5-15:1 with ported -1's, small roller (what he had already), BME rods, with a small injectorator on alky and marginal slicks/traction this engine went 7.50's 178 mph in a hardtail. with the proper cam, injectorator and traction it would have gone 40's for sure maybe even a hair quicker. not dissing the b1's as i have them but being you already have two sets of -1's. one consideration if you use the -1's and want to change to b1's it will mean new pistons as the reliefs are different

500 made 845 on gas. dragster.

In a light drag only car where you're not concerned about needing any torque advantage below 4500rpm the B1 is the best (affordable....I'm excluding the Predator) choice. Most B1's won't flow any better than any other wedge below ~.500-.550 lift (despite much larger ports and valves) so they need big cams and compresion to show their stuff....with the combo you describe it's gonna be the best choice, hands down. What supercomp said is very valid about the piston....but it sounds like ytou're upgrading the shortblock anyway.....you can always sell the -1's (there' always a good resale market for them....especially worked ones with proven performance) to offset the cost.

I have the 528 cu in engine with the 4.50 bore 6.570 BME aluminum rods 4.15 crank with the 572-13 heads with a tunnel ram & Ron's Terminators in my dragster. I am very happy with it.I have never had a set of B1 heads so I can not say which is the best.My engine came from Indy and the dyno sheet says 936 hp @ 7200 RPM with one 1095 King Demon sq jetted at 93.I have been told Indy fudges on thier dyno sheets. I don't know about that either But I will be happy to share the info on this engine(I have the build sheet from Indy)with you or anyone else if it will be of any help.

There is nothing fancy in ours. just a callies crank, manley 6.535 rods and je 1.365 ch pistons (heavy 586 grams). a .752 lift cam with 280/283 dur. 112 lsa and 1050 dom dynoed with a thottle stop under the carb. a idiot could build this motor. in fact one did, me.

If you don't max the bore out your leaving horspower on the table

Ok, sounds like you want to pick up a tenth, offset the block weight as well. That is about another 70 hp over what you have. Another idea would be to build a moderate size shortblock, with a large bore and short stroke. Anything from 500 to 528 will work, preferably the smaller of the two, to keep starting line torque similar to what you have. Set the motor up with heads that will build the power you want with a bit more rpm to get the extra power you want. A 3.9 inch stroke with a 4.500 bore gives you a 496 cube motor that will have moderate torque like you now have, breath extremely well with the 440-1 heads on it, and make very good power peaking roughly at 7500 rpm. You should be able to reach your goals, have a very consistent car, and yet go faster still.
You didn't specify which heads you currently run though. Are you running fully ported 440-1 heads now ?

greg, thanks for the ideas, i am running 440-1 that was cnc ported by indy, they are 325cc intake port. so there is more to go if i need it, and posssibly could with a big bore.


supercomp, that goes to show the hp in the heads and cam. mine is in a 440 block and the car is 90lbs lighter than yours. same size tire no beadlocks, same gear ratio, 7000 shift 6800 in the traps 1.11 60 5.05 at 135