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Wow, I didn't realize that the lower bushing required the old metal, I will order new rubber ones from Rockauto.

Is there any benefit to using polyurethane for the rest of the bushings? The upper control arm, sway bar, torsion bar, etc?

At this point, the only upgrade I plan on making to the front end is power disc brakes. In the far future I may go to power steering instead of the manual steering it came with but I am a ways from having the car on the road and would have to feel the manual steering before I change it out.

Thanks

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Yes, there are benefits for cars built for handling that don't want thier bushings flex under heavy cornering. But with that more road vibration is translated from the road to the body. Also, they can squeak over time.

Are you planning to do other suspension upgrades to your car??

I'd run moog 7103 bushings installed for more caster following the instructions below. Don't follow the instuction in the box. Even with manual steering, just 2 degrees of positive caster can give you more cruising speed. stability. Rest of the alignment specs can be set basically to stock.

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Wow, I didn't realize that the lower bushing required the old metal, I will order new rubber ones from Rockauto.

Is there any benefit to using polyurethane for the rest of the bushings? The upper control arm, sway bar, torsion bar, etc?

At this point, the only upgrade I plan on making to the front end is power disc brakes. In the far future I may go to power steering instead of the manual steering it came with but I am a ways from having the car on the road and would have to feel the manual steering before I change it out.

Thanks

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Yes, there are benefits for cars built for handling that don't want thier bushings flex under heavy cornering. But with that more road vibration is translated from the road to the body. Also, they can squeak over time.

Are you planning to do other suspension upgrades to your car??

I'd run moog 7103 bushings installed for more caster following the instructions below. Don't follow the instuction in the box. Even with manual steering, just 2 degrees of positive caster can give you more cruising speed. stability. Rest of the alignment specs can be set basically to stock.



[image]
]http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/susp/img/1MAsusp4.JPG[/image]

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I dont plan on any upgrades as far as for road racing, the only racing I would do is on the street and straight ahead. I have seen kits to change to rack and pinion, tubular control arms, etc. I dont plan on any of that, I think stock will suffice for me most of the time.

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I use Moog rubber bushings for the LCA and strut rods. Not all rubber bushings are equal, Moog is still the best IMO. I use poly for the UCA and the anti-roll bars. I also only use Moog parts for ball joints, pitman & idler arms and tie rod ends. IMO suspension and brakes are not the place to use the cheapest parts. After all they only hold the wheels on and stop the car.

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If someone made an offset UCA bushing in poly I'd say go with that, but since I haven't found one, your only choice is the K7103 from Moog. And yeah, lots of other front end suppliers used junk ball joints and the like. Stick with Moog. Use poly for the sway bar end links and frame bushings, and in the leaf spring front and rear bushings, rubber for the front end bushings.

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Use poly for the sway bar end links and frame bushings, and in the leaf spring front and rear bushings, rubber for the front end bushings.

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I compromised on the rear springs. I used Moog rubber for the front spring eye [ I have the small diameter bushings ] and poly for the shackles. The small diameter fronts reduce the amount of bushing material and I think the shackle end is where most of the deflection takes place. The rubber fronts reduce resonance and jolts.

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