Please post pictures of well "hidden" roll cages.

I am building a '66 Belvedere II and I want to put in a cage that is NHRA legal for 9.99 seconds. How would you best hide the cage to make it the least noticable when the car is street driven?

Would you put the front down tubes through the dash or in front of the dash? How do you tie them in to the floor or sub-frame?

The rear down tubes along the C pillar sail panels, but how would you tie them into the trunk floor and rear sub-frame?

9.99 is the cut off, so either you want a roll bar and you'll be legal to 10.00 or you can put in a roll cage which will have more bars, but will cert to 8.50.

It would seem that the most visible part of the cage would be the front down bar at the windshield & dash area, mostly when the door is open. The 66, 67 b bodys have very little dash area to run the bars through it. most people stay in front of the dash itself.

The nostalgia type series of racing want you to have basically a full interior so you must leave clearance for interior trim panels and headliner.
so you cant really hide a cage.

On my 67 coronet sedan I wanted the front bar away from the door opening for ease of entry and exit so I went through the dash. However I made the dash two pieces. it will take alot of fab to finish it off right.

The Wheel 2 Wheel Nova is high up on my list of cleanly hidden cages.

9.60's @ 146+ mph

http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0611_72_nova_w2w/fabrication_continued.html

The Nova pics are a real good example of how to hide 'em--my Dart is done the same way. The rules allow for ONE BEND in each pipe, so if you follow the contour of the "A" and "C" pillar (aka sail panel) and put your main hoop in line with the post or where the glass meets you should be good. Have a blck interior & factory tinted windows & your "X" bar should almost blend in. I ran my snout bars outside the inner fenderwells,tied 'em to the shock brace then bent them back in to go into the engine bay so you only see about 4ins. of pipe in the engine compartment. Any other bars are below the windows so hiding them isn't an issue.

My 66 Belvedere 2 cage is built almost identical to ModelmakerInc, I had to cut my dash and section the ends. I tried hard to hide my main hoop by installing it in alignment with my door glass window trim, only issue after the fact, I don't think I'm going to be able to slide my seat back far enough to be really comftorble (Bench seat car 6'2" driver) Keep this in mind, wish I had of. Things I'd do over: consider puting a curve maybe in the seat cross bar to allow it to slide back farther, swing out door bars, not run the bars straight back through the rear speaker panels, to visible in the large rear window. 8.50 will require window net, thats what I was told, need to install window latching mechanism.

As I read the rule book no dash bar is required with a full unmodified factory firewall, also the tubes to the forward frame rails in the engine compartment are not needed with intact factory inner fenderwells. Swingouts on both sides could be removed for street use. Smaller tubing can be used if crome moly. Just my

You can see from this pic, the halo is above the top of the door glass, and the a-bar follows the a-pillar as best as possible. The 1/4 glass isn't shown in this picture, but the main hoop stays right behind the 1/4 glass chrome.

Front bars hidden under inner fenders. (as noted above, front bars and dash cross bar are not needed if the fire wall is intact. Neither is the rocker bar. I have all of them in just for stiffness/safety sake.

We tired to do the same. Keep it tight

Mine is up and away pretty tight..A pillar bars should have been tighter..I was 19..It was the first cage I ever did...Started me on the path to be nicknamed CHASSISMAN.